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SSing said:
So if you look at post #7, how much lower is crankshaft centerlin in your engine?
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I will have to measure and get back, I have a HDK chrome molly cross member so do not know if the same measure? I need one of those push rods. Someone made mine from original and is a little binded up.
 
ns1rm21 said:
The aluminum block is sold by Mancini Racing. It moves the master over a 1” +/-. As for the pushrod I made my own. A female hyme joint and a long grade 8 bolt that I cut the head off. Worked perfectly.

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I cut my stock master cyl rod in half, threaded the ends and screwed them together w/ a threaded rod coupling ,adjusted to the same thickness as my spacer block , welded it , then tuned it down in my little lathe , till it looked like a race car part and would pass threw the firewall satisfactorily.
 
DART505 said:
I will have to measure and get back, I have a HDK chrome molly cross member so do not know if the same measure? I need one of those push rods. Someone made mine from original and is a little binded up.
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Easy to build. I have an old Camaro stick car and the clutch linkage is all rod ends. Doctor diff also sells the longer push rod.
 
famous bob said:
I cut my stock master cyl rod in half, threaded the ends and screwed them together w/ a threaded rod coupling ,adjusted to the same thickness as my spacer block , welded it , then tuned it down in my little lathe , till it looked like a race car part and would pass threw the firewall satisfactorily.
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That's good old hotrodding ingenuity right there Bob! I recall when installing my offset block, I had to die grind some of the firewall once the block was in place.
 
DART505 said:
I will have to measure and get back, I have a HDK chrome molly cross member so do not know if the same measure? I need one of those push rods. Someone made mine from original and is a little binded up.
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Well, my point is you want to install block with crank center line through transmission, stright to the pinion center line. Than start making nessesary mods to make thing work...
 
While you guys are in this subject here is how I determined my driveline alignment. I made these tools. The C clamp attaches to the main journal on a hollowed out block and the laser pointer shines through the block. Then I clamp the wooden block with the washer glued on it in the #2 and #5 journal of the block along with another one in the tail shaft of the trans. With a hollowed out trans in place the red dot shines onto the diff. The dot ends up well above the yoke because of pinion angle. I have used this method on 8:50 cars and street cars. Everybody has there own way of doing this and this way is how I do it.
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ns1rm21 said:
While you guys are in this subject here is how I determined my driveline alignment. I made these tools. The C clamp attaches to the main journal on a hollowed out block and the laser pointer shines through the block. Then I clamp the wooden block with the washer glued on it in the #2 and #5 journal of the block along with another one in the tail shaft of the trans. With a hollowed out trans in place the red dot shines onto the diff. The dot ends up well above the yoke because of pinion angle. I have used this method on 8:50 cars and street cars. Everybody has there own way of doing this and this way is how I do it. View attachment 1715562478View attachment 1715562479View attachment 1715562480
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Do you recall your engine angle once it was all installed? I’m expecting it will be about 2 degrees negative?
 
Good question, I would say it was in that ballpark. I know my carb mounting pads were level at the time of mock up.
 
ns1rm21 said:
Good question, I would say it was in that ballpark. I know my carb mounting pads were level at the time of mock up.
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I'll be installing my hemi in the fall, I'll check it and share. I'd guess that it's going to be about 2 degrees.

For the Dart though I built my engine plate mounts with the block exactly as your measurements indicate. I'm sure the TTI's will fit like a glove.
 
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