Cylinder head decision for 318

The power-chart in post #47 illustrates my point exactly. Great power at 5000, but check it out at 2500; a measly 135hp, I can only imagine what the hp would be, at 1700/1800, a typical factory stall speed, or even a 2000 .
Furthermore, it fully supports my advised 2800TC. There is more than 20hp difference from 2500 to 2800
And this is in a 1990 block; which should be the Magnum spec 9.4 Scr engine. Not the sub 8.0Scr 1974 LA-spec engine.
I am NOT knocking the 318s as a whole. When properly built/matched/combo'ed up, they are a lotta fun, and are not the tire-fryers that 360s are.
You just don't have the luxury, with a 318, to give up cylinder pressure, like you can with a 360, without making the bottom-end soft.

A purpose built 318, with; high cylinder pressure, tight-Q, and a fast-ramp solid lifter cam; could be a real ripper, from stall to shift and beyond. Throw in a nice set of heads, and move down one cam-size and it could be a tirefryer as well. Built like that, a guy might be inclined to look no further. I mean honestly;IMO, my 223* cammed 360 was way way overkill for a streeter.

Great power at 5000, but check it out at 2500; a measly 135hp, I can only imagine what the hp would be, at 1700/1800, a typical factory stall speed, or even a 2000 .

Click to expand...

Of course, even the factory knew enough to not put a 1700 stall speed converter behind a motor using that cam.

That motor ripped pretty good for what it was.
It wasn’t built to use in a plow truck.

The stock 273-4 had a peak of 280@4000rpm........ so who knows what it was at 2500 without seeing a dyno sheet....... but if the peak is 280@4000........ then you can be sure the tq at 2500 is less than the 284 pumped out by that 318.
The 273-4 peaks are at the same points as that 318....... 4000 and 5000....... only the peak values are 48ft/lbs less and 58hp less.
So ....... how bad could that 318 really be?

Swap to a cam that had shorter seat timing and a tighter lsa than the stock 340 cam(114lsa), and the numbers would likely improve across the board.

Chrysler 318 Engine - Popular Hot Rodding Magazine

XE275HL and EQ heads ported and unported made 192 hp @ 3000 rpm.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0312-318-long-block-bolt-ons/#:~:text=Our 318 now produced 282 hp at 5,000,hp by an intake, carb, and cam change.

XE262H stock low cr long block 318 4bbl headers 192-3 hp @ 3000 rpm
stock 2bbl and cam with headers 112 hp @ 2000 rpm, 137 hp @ 2500 rpm and 164 hp @ 3000 rpm.

318 Small Block Build - How To - Hot Rod Magazine

Xe268h fully ported heads 191/199/202 hp @ 3000 rpm.

All 3 with way more cam than stock made 27-38 hp more than stock 318 at 3000 rpm and even though none showed cammed engines at 2000 and 2500 rpm I have no problem seeing at least tying or even a slight or decent raise in power above the stock low cr 2bbl 318 at 137 hp @ 2500 rpm and 112 hp @ 2000 rpm with headers.

I have no problem imagining that 318 I did making 20+ hp more @3000 than it did by swapping the stock 340 cam for a xe262.
That would have put it right in the mix with the others @3000.......and likely over 300hp @5000 as well.

I'm not sure why someone would want to build a hot rod 318 with the intention of sticking with the stock torque converter. Stock converters are for stock motors. Every time I've used a stock converter in a performance application was because I couldn't afford anything else at the time. Even if a 318 is built with an emphasis on low rpm performance, it's still not going to be a torque monster.

C2ndLTpigeon said:

I was thinking on leaving it with the 1.92 Intake valves that they offer on the heads. My goal is to have little more than stock nothing high RPM and sound good at idle running an 904 trans. The heads I have seem to have issues and I would like a good replacement and these are not bad for the price for complete heads. I also like the fact that the Exhaust manifold bolts do not share a hold with the coolant jackets which is nice once I brake in the hooker headers and want to pull them off to coat I wont have to drain some coolant.

Click to expand...

When I read this;
My goal is to have little more than stock nothing high RPM and sound good at idle running an 904 trans.
Together with OP's other posts, I get the impression that, for starters; this is a decidedly budget build.
The 63cc heads in question will bump the compression to a max of about 9/1, a very good thing. But the piston to head with the .028 gasket, and ft pistons down at .057, is still .085, over a very small area, so no Squish to speak of.

At an assumed elevation of zero, in Indio CA, Wallace says
Static compression ratio of 9:1.
Effective stroke is 2.78 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 7.71:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 155.82 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 125
This runs on pumpgas,with bottom end similar to a factory 318M; so "a little more than stock" LA318( see below). The Dcr is approaching 8/1 (about the most you could run with this combo), so; your goal is met.

stock 1974 318LA@sealevel,
Static compression ratio of 8:1.
Effective stroke is 2.89 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 7.10:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 139.76 PSI.
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 116


With factory type gears(often 2.76s) and stall (occasionally as high as 2000, but more often closer to 1800), it's still gonna be a bit of a disappointment below 20/25 mph, but you can deal with that later as you see fit.

Going back to post 47
If you extrapolate the chart down to 2000rpm, you might find say 250ftlbs

so at zero mph, a car with this engine, and with 2.76s would be grossing , at WOT;
250 x2.45 x2.76=1690ftlbs into the rear axles , not enough to spin the pair.
But hang on, there is a hydraulic multiplier in the TC that can automatically vary from 1.8 to 1.1 or so, depending on the torque differential thru it. I have no idea of what your stock TC is capable of, but IMO, I think 1.6 would be generous. So then
250 x2.45 x2.76 X1.6in the TC=2704. This is at zero mph. So the tires will break loose. As soon as they do, the torque differential thru the TC drops towards the low end of the scale. Say in the neighborhood of 1.3, so then
250 x2.45 x2.76 x1.3= 2197 and the spin is grinding to a halt. But hang on the rpm should be rising, so the torque is simultaneously increasing. If she can get to 3000, during that initial spin, then the torque will be up to 298, so
298 x2.45 x2.76 x1.3=2620, and the tires will continue to spin, reluctantly perhaps, but spinning none the less. The car is now accelerating in first gear, and roadspeed at 3000 will get you about 27 mph, but the spinning has long ago stopped. So now, at 27mph/3000 rpm, your engine could be at 170 hp. That 5000rpm peak will come at ~46mph, and with good heads you might be able to stretch that to 5500@51mph
Now comes the 1-2 shift.
And the Rs fall from 5500 to 3250; down to 193hp from 285hp, and no help from the TC so yur fun-run is now on time-lapse. It won't be back until 80/85 mph.
The principle problem is the 2.76s, followed hotly by the 2000stall
convertor.

Lets install a 2800TC and 3.73s;
Now, at zero mph the numbers look like
295ftlbs x2.45 x3.73 x1.7 say in the TC=4580 ftlbs, which is instant tirespin. So now you are controlling tirespin with your right foot, which is a chitload of fun. 5000rpm will now be 34mph, 5500 will be 37.4mph, and at the 1-2 shift the Rs fall to 3250 again, same 285hp to 193, that does not change. But at 3250 the torque is 313, and.....................
313 x1.45 x3.73 x1.4=2370 into the rear axles. There is a possibility that your tires ,now at just 37.4mph, are again spinning. This is partly due to the slightly higher multiplier I gave the TC, but mostly due to the 3.73s, which are a 3fer1 deal; 1) the speed is way down, and 2) the TM is so much higher,and 3) the TC is gonna see a bigger torque differential thru it, so I hiked the ratio to 1.4.


Ok now I gotta tell you another thing;
These same principles hold exactly true for the stock 318. The only things that change are the numbers and speeds. The same 2800, and say 3.91s now, are gonna produce similar results to I'm guessing 3500/4000 rpm, So instead of running to 37.4 mph, you are now gonna run to 5000=30mph. Even if your torque is down 20%, say 260ftlbs, this comes to
260 x2.45 x3.91 x1.4=3487ftlbs at 30 mph with still spinning in first gear. on the 1-2 shift, the Rs fall from 5000 to 2950, and there is a very good chance that your stock 318LA is gonna make at least as much torque as this hopped up post 47 one does. But let's give the hotrod a bit of credit and say your LA is down 10%, that would be 268ftlbs, so
268x 2.45 x3.91 x 1.3=3340 ftlbs and very likely still spinning @30mph in second gear. The nice thing about 3.91s is that they get you 60= about 5000;
Exactly where you want to be with a stock 318LA; 3.91s are the quickest way to 60mph with a stock low-compression 318LA. You go thru the power peak twice on the way there. So even tho the stocker is way down on power compared to the post-47 hotrod, it can still be a chitload of fun, as a streeter.
Now; put a 4bbl and some headers on that stock-cammed 318, and see her fly!.

So compare the buy-ins;
a 2800TC and 3.91s installed, versus
whiplash cam & heads, and yur still gonna need a TC and gears, cuz trapping 60 in second with 2.76s is maybe 3800, (4000 at the highest) with the hotrod post-47 engine. Take a look on the powerchart;3800 is 238hp.................
Lessee. if you both spin thru first gear, then you shift into second at 30(with 3.91s), versus him at 47( with 2.76s); and you blast to 60@5000 versus him at 3800; riddle me this;
will that hotrod squash your stocker?
With a 4bbl and headers, Ima thinking you will squash him, but if not, I imagine a very tight race. It's always about the combo.

I chuckle at our head and cam threads. They always go off the rails and soon we are building maximum horsepower, competing with the magazine builds. We should start a couple threads and have people vote on the best cam and head for a stock 318. But that's what we do. Lots of good information come out of these build threads.

toolmanmike said:

I chuckle at our head and cam threads. They always go off the rails and soon we are building maximum horsepower, competing with the magazine builds. We should start a couple threads and have people vote on the best cam and head for a stock 318. But that's what we do. Lots of good information come out of these build threads.

Click to expand...

I’ve been here for like 8 years we haven’t came to a census yet on the subject of what to do with 273/318. There always the most popular threads cause 340/360 is pretty easy to figure what you want or need. Most think you shouldn’t even bother with a 318 and if you do leave stock or treat it with kid gloves, Ford guys have no problem doing a 302 or even 289 though they have 351 etc..
Chevy guys think nothing of doing 5.3l or even 4.8l ls engines or even a 327.

Problem with 318 is it’s stock Cr and head will get you about 280 hp with 4bbl cam and headers after that something needs to be done with the head Most aren’t gonna port so 340/360 will give airflow but cost valuable cr. Magnum cracks or by time you grab a set in the junkyard you might as well do a magnum swap. Which I’m for, most would be better off with a running 5.2l or 5.9l both would be 300 hp with a 4bbl and more with cam and headers. We should see Magnum as are versions of a LS swap it’s more like Vortec but should be for most guy looking for a drop in 300-400 hp depending on cam.

Putting a lot of money into stock heads is a waste since we have decent alternatives, it would be nice if someone came up with a aftermarket 318 Head that bump cr on a stock short block to 10:1
with smallish ports that matched 340/360 intakes and about 400hp since that’s about most you want to go with a 318.

I like the saying some here say build a 318 likes it’s a 340 it won’t know the difference.

@toolmanmike
Great idea!
here's my winter engine from year 2000 to 2005
___________________
I know what I would do.
Oh, wait, I already did it a couple of times.
Stock 1974 LA318 short block with a 2bbl 360 cam, a bit more valve spring, a small-port CI 4bbl intake, a TQ, TTIs and full-length 3" duals, and 3.91s is a mountain of fun. I ran it with both a manual trans and a 904/2800, and an A998/2.74 low gear with 3.55s. I also tried the A833od box. And one time I ran it with 4.30s, but that was ridiculous,lol.
My favorite combo was the "close-ratio A904/2800/and believe it or not 3.55s/ with a TF-2 kit. With this, I could put it into third very early and floor it. Imagine a very long slow pull in third gear, with the Dynomax 3in/3out mufflers screaming. What a blast. Anybody remember a 67 Pontiac 2+2, 283/2speed PG, that hit 85 in first gear? Hyup a friend in hi-school had one, and that was the sound I would occasionally gravitate to.

My second favorite combo was with the A833-od box,4.30s,and the GVod bolted onto the back, used as a splitter.
The gears were 3.09/2.41-1.67/1.30-1.00/.78od-.54dod Hyup 7 gears.
Top of first-over was 40ish
and she hit 60@5350 in second.
and 65=1920 heehee.
the starter gear was 3.09x4.30=13.29 what a blast. First was done at 30, then hit the electric shift and 1od took her to 40. Then into second, then 2-od and hit 65mph@4500, just about right on for that 2bbl-360 cam. Count 'em up; that's 4 ratios to 65mph,lol. Ridiculous fun, in my 3650# 68 Barracuda(me in it.)
In the end, that low-compression 318 did not like the wide ratios of the A833od box. I replaced it with a Commando-box,so I didn't HAVE to split gears ALL the friggen time. The ratios are;
3.09/2.41-1.92/1.50,-1.40/1.09-1.00/.78..... 8 gears but
Typically shifted as a 4+1,or mostly
3.09-1.92-1.40-1.09-.78, giving me a short 4th. and
occasionally shifted; 3.09-2.41-1.92-1.50 to hit 60mph=4800; now we're talking.
I lost dod (double overdrive) so now 65=2700. I slowed down a bit,lol. Eventually the 4.30s gave way to 3.91s. Then 3.55s, and with those;60mph was 5100 in 1.92, the third selected ratio; close enough, and well worth it for 65=2240.

So the point is this;
The bottom-end of that 74 318 was lazy to start with, even with a freshening. And the 360 cam didn't make it any better.
But the 4.30s and 3.09 low-gear, perked it right up.
The mid range of a low-cylinder pressure smogger-teen is not impressive either, but 3 or 4 gears, from zero to 60/65, solved that.
And the 360-2bbl cam pushed the top-end up about 400 or perhaps 500 rpm higher, solving the top-end lay-down, with a lil help from the 850cfm, Carter-rated 4bbl.
And finally;the GVod brought the 3.55s back to 2.77 for cruising with.
IMO, that is how to deal with a low-compression 318.

If I had it to do over, I would just put decent pistons into it, and install a SFT cam, to maintain the pressure and VP, and call it done.

And that goes double when using an automatic.
When I used the 2800 and the A998(close-ratio)/loc-up, it acted like a 5-speed.
First gear with the multiplier in the TC, acts like a 4.41 at zero mph, then rapidly upshifts to about 3.43 at shift-rpm. Then in second it declines to ~1.74 towards shift rpm. then in third, it declines towards 1.1, and finally in loc-up, she hits 1.00 . Count 'em;
4.41 diminishing to 3.43-1.74-1.1-1.00..... Now add the 3.91s

17.24-13.41-6.90-4.30-3.91,Compare that to my manual combo, with 4.30s
13.29- 8.26- 6.02-4.30-3.35; as I "normally" use it with the GVod. Or
.........10.97-6.82-4.97-3.55-2.77 my final combo3.55s.
It's really hard to fault the TF-automatic.

What I learned was that;
for a streeter,it is easily possible to have too many gears, and that 3 of them to 60mph is lots enough.
And too much gear in first just goes to tirespin, lot and lots of it. But if you can learn to get your 3.91/904/2800 out of the gate, it's gonna make a mad-dash to 60 that surprised the heck out of me. So much so, that in 2005, I was in no hurry to re-install my summer combo.

Now, having said all that; how about the A500?
With it's .69overdrive, you can run just about any rear gear you want to and that's great cuz to hit 60 optimally at say 5200, requires a 6.64 ratio, which in 1.54 second gear is 4.30s. The .69od lets you run 65=2400 in loc-up, with those.
Now yer all set up for a 4900/5000 power-peak; which is about a 220*@.050 cam in a 318. Badaboom. Make it a solid, and you get to keep some cylinder pressure. Make it a 108 or less LSA. and you can get the headers to work for you. Since it's a loc-up, Ima thinking minimum 3400stall, but with a starter gear of 11.78, just about any stall will work, cuz you are not gonna need much help to get moving. The only reason to use more than 2800 is for the 1-2 split where the ratio is .56, so out-shifting first at 5200, gets you 2920 going into second, and the nose is gonna drop like a rock. A 3400 here, is gonna perk the shift right up.
Now you could use that smoggerteen right outta the box, 8/1 Scr and all.
And! And because you now have a starter of 11.78 with a 3400(lol) stall, that 318 whiplash is gonna be right at home in there.
If I was planning a smoggerteen combo, that is how I would do it;namely with an A500/4.30s. I mean still not the Whiplash mind you,lol.

But as to my engine?
I would use a stock magnum with a short-ramp, hi-lift Solid-lifter, 220ish @.050 sorta like this;
Static compression ratio of 9.4:1.
Ica of 55*, sealevel.
Effective stroke is 2.76 inches.
Your dynamic compression ratio is 7.99:1 .
Your dynamic cranking pressure is 163.28 PSI
V/P (Volume to Pressure Index) is 130

Between the 2400@65, and the 120 or so degrees of power-extraction, I just know I can pull some nice mpgs out of that Magnum headed combo.
With an LA318, it would only a bit more work (pistons and closed chamber heads).
I could be shopping for a solid lifter cam of 220/224@.050 or so, and after lash of;
258/262/106+0/ 55* Ica/125* comp/123 extraction/48* olap.

Plus they already tried with the sticky thread cams for a 318

Seems to come down to two groups those that are overly concerned about cr especially dcr and fast ramp cams, and those that are any 200 to 220 @ .050” cam should be fine.

AJ/FormS said:

With factory type gears(often 2.76s) and stall (occasionally as high as 2000, but more often closer to 1800), it's still gonna be a bit of a disappointment below 20/25 mph, but you can deal with that later as you see fit.

Click to expand...

If factory stall is 1800-2000 rpm not saying cam effect under 2000 rpm wouldn't be important but less so especially under 1500 rpm?

If so the 3 builds I could find with xe262h xe268h and xe275hl all make 190-200 hp at 3000 rpm 25-35 hp over stock 164 hp @ 3000 rpm and a few 360 builds I looked at made 200-230 at 3000 rpm so sounds like these cam giving a 318 most of what is available at that rpm. So 3000 rpm above these cams are just all gain over stock and I would even assume from the stock 137 hp @ 2500 rpm they would be tie or gain as well.

So the important rpm band with stock stall and cams would be 1500-2500 rpm?
and 1500-2000 rpm would be heavily helped by the stall so the dead spot if there is one would be 2000-2500 rpm?

Obviously anyone using a cam like Xe275hl would be using an aftermarket stall, Xe268h recommends one with a 318 and probably get away with stock stall, how much power could that cam be down from the stock 318 2bbl's 112 hp @ 2000 rpm. And the xe262h should no problem even though people should be adding stall to any performance engine. Can't see where the danger is when adding a mild cam to a 318 is it the lack of CR slowing the engines acceleration rate?

273 said:

If factory stall is 1800-2000 rpm not saying cam effect under 2000 rpm wouldn't be important but less so especially under 1500 rpm?

If so the 3 builds I could find with xe262h xe268h and xe275hl all make 190-200 hp at 3000 rpm 25-35 hp over stock 164 hp @ 3000 rpm and a few 360 builds I looked at made 200-230 at 3000 rpm so sounds like these cam giving a 318 most of what is available at that rpm. So 3000 rpm above these cams are just all gain over stock and I would even assume from the stock 137 hp @ 2500 rpm they would be tie or gain as well.

So the important rpm band with stock stall and cams would be 1500-2500 rpm?
and 1500-2000 rpm would be heavily helped by the stall so the dead spot if there is one would be 2000-2500 rpm?

Obviously anyone using a cam like Xe275hl would be using an aftermarket stall, Xe268h recommends one with a 318 and probably get away with stock stall, how much power could that cam be down from the stock 318 2bbl's 112 hp @ 2000 rpm. And the xe262h should no problem even though people should be adding stall to any performance engine. Can't see where the danger is when adding a mild cam to a 318 is it the lack of CR slowing the engines acceleration rate?

Click to expand...

Good point. (all) I think all small cube engines need it all to work well. A 360 has enough cubes and torque even with low compression to overcome what is needed to make a car perform. Say a Dart or Duster is a dog with a 318 with say 150 horse at 3000 rpm where a 360 may have 230 at that same rpm. That's quite a performance difference. On the street with a stock or near stock converter Most of the performance is needed between idle and 3000 rpm (or so). That's much easier to get with a 8:1 360 than a 318.

toolmanmike said:

Good point. (all) I think all small cube engines need it all to work well. A 360 has enough cubes and torque even with low compression to overcome what is needed to make a car perform. Say a Dart or Duster is a dog with a 318 with say 150 horse at 3000 rpm where a 360 may have 230 at that same rpm. That's quite a performance difference. On the street with a stock or near stock converter Most of the performance is needed between idle and 3000 rpm (or so). That's much easier to get with a 8:1 360 than a 318.

Click to expand...

This two stock low cr engines one 318 and other 360 with 4bbl headers and xe262 cams.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0105-dyno-test-360-smog-motor/

318 Long Block Bolt Ons - Tech Articles - Mopar Muscle Magazine.

There is nothing wrong with a 318 and I guess I was trying to say, you can make them perform for fun street use. Not as powerful as a 360 unless you do it right but be careful. It is easy to over cam a stock teen and then you are going backwards until it reaches that magic rpm to make it work. You had better be prepared to change converter and rear gear if you over cam. And of course you should have headers, intake-carb and the rest to make it work. A stock 360 may get similar results if you want to go that route.

Think about how the dyno's work, how they are used and how the results are. They measure torque and calculate horsepower but nobody seems to do comparisons between components (cam, intake, carb,headers) from idle to say 3000 rpm. That's where 90% of the street driven cars spend most of their time.

I’m having a hard time invisioning a low cr 318 with a whiplash cam and cylinder heads that have a 40% larger runner volume and 8% larger diameter intake valves making a bunch of TQ at 2000rpm.

PRH said:

I’m having a hard time invisioning a low cr 318 with a whiplash cam and cylinder heads that have a 40% larger runner volume and 8% larger diameter intake valves making a bunch of TQ at 2000rpm.

Click to expand...

Wrong combination. LOL

Exactly.

Looking at these combos without taking the runner volumes and valve sizes into account just doesn’t tell the complete story.

The math being discussed thus far would lead you to believe that there would be no difference in output if the motor had reworked 302’s on it...... or ported W8’s....... if the CR and cranking pressures were the same.

the 2 best running 318s I have had have both been in trucks. 1st was a 79 shortbed with 833OD and 3.91s, manual steer and brakes. back around 1990. 69 motor, stock longblock with 30-over bore. original heads. MP cam (at the time it was 1 below the "252" I think it was 248 duration.... MP PN ended with (something like) 757
Had an Edelbrock "Streetmaster 318" with a Carterbrock 625 tuned as best as I could out of the box. ran true duals with stock 69 manifolds. plain old muffler shop grade turbos.

the other was an 83 D250, original shortblock (unrebuilt) at around 125k I put in a stock 360-2bbl cam, as spec'd in ~'76-77-- was a Melling stock replacement. with EQ Magnum head conversion (meant 1.6 rockers) and a plain old Performer (not "RPM") and another Carterbrock 625.... That one had a 727 with 3.55s and 32" tires (235/85r16) and I had people saying "BS that CAN'T be a 318. but it was. This one also had Hooker Super Comp headers and true duals with run of the mill, muffler shop turbos.

I put what was described as both a "340 replacement" and as an "RV" cam back in the 80s in a 318 (hey it was my 1st ever car engine rebuild) I don't remember specs but it came from Super Shops when they were around, was an Erson grind. in a 75 Cordoba with stock converter and 2.7x gears, don't remember the intake (other than it was aluminum) same style carb as the above 2, cheapie (Eagle?) Headers from same Super Shops. went thru a couple of 904s then went 727. I was like 20 back then, couldn't keep a trans in that car to save my life. seemed like I was putting a trans a month on that thing. '75 Cordoba. that thing was loud, sounded mean but it was a DOG. Big time. I think that engine ran better with the original cam and the cast iron 360 2 bbl intake that it had on it, when I had it handed down to me from my Dad. At the time that 360 intake and carb, and a "test tube" from the cat with the remains of the original single exhaust in the car were the ONLY deviations from stock original.... ever since that Cordoba I have really been afraid when picking a cam.

I currently have a 78 Fury 2 door with 55k original miles, all original still (including Lean Burn even, at the moment) and yet another 318-2bbl, with a 904 (I hate 904s, prefer 727s I have had no luck with 904s nother story)) only deviation from stock to date is a true dual exhaust all the way to the bumper. 2.76 gears. drive ~2000 miles a year.
I want to wake this thing up just a little, nothing crazy. I have a set of fresh from the machine shop, 302 heads here, Im thinking to swap them on and add either another stock 360-2bbl cam or possibly a Comp 252 after the experience with that cam in my 3/4 ton truck. the 2 bbl 360 and the COMP 252 are nearly identical.
I have an Offy 4 bbl and another "regular" Performer" hanging on the wall along with few different carbs... Carterbrock 500 cfm 4 bbl, Carterbrock 600/625, and a couple of TQs that are fresh and not been run since gone thru. Like I said I aint wanting anything crazy but I am wanting to wake it up a little bit. and I think between this combo of parts I have that should do it. Also have a COMP 260H on hand. will probably save that one for later.
I do currently have a stock 360 cam on hand (used, would need to put new lifters on that though) I might stab in there, instead of buying another Melling like I put in the truck above....