Introducing Project "Scabra Tulitque"

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dibbons

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Location
La Paz, B.C.S., Mexico
Purchase date: June 18, 2008 Over fourteen years ago now, our 1965 Plymouth Signet convertible, a rusty 273 automatic daily-driver, was driven from the purchase site of Port Angeles, Washington, to its new home in La Paz, Baja California Sur in two stages. First to California where it was stored several years and then down to sunny Mexico (without having experienced even a hiccup on the way). The trip totaled 2,250 miles with about 50 hours driving time on the road. ("tulitque" is the Latin word for "signet" & "scabra" means "rough/rusty"). I lost the opportunity to take Latin as a freshman in high school, which I regret to this day.

This project is waiting behind a 1972 Plymouth Satellite Sebring Plus ("Project Odyssey" on FBBO), and its cousin, a 1965 Plymouth Barracuda Formula "S" ("Project Chihuahua" on FABO). Funds are limited, compounded by the fact that I don't have any welding skills.

Signet Purchase.JPG


Signet motor 273.JPG
 
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According to the fender tag, she was produced in April of 1965 with few options. Equipment per tag: 273 V-8 automatic w/center console, convertible white top, body in light blue, medium blue metallic upper door panels, and blue premium vinyl bucket seats; heater with defroster and a manual driver's side mirror, retractable seat belts front/rear. No power top, no power brakes, no power steering, no radio. Miraculously, both tail lights are in good shape. Why is the bumper jack always missing?

Previous owner must have installed a radio/antennas (missing) based on the remaining evidence of the installation of dual rear radio antenna bases/cables. Looking at the photo of the 7 1/4 differential cover, I see for the first time today an Auto Recycler yellow marker notation "1974." In the glove compartment we find a six month guarantee for work performed on the Torqueflite 904, and the steering wheel is aftermarket. I replaced the master cylinder. The vehicle does sport wheel moulding (one missing) and baby moon hubcaps and trim rings.

Signet Fender Tag.JPG


Antennas.JPG


Differential.JPG


Steering Wheel.JPG


Lt. Rear Wheel.JPG
 
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The floorboards have been patched with some very wimpy material and the hood shows many layers of paint over and above the factory finish. Rust is creeping in everywhere. Water pours inside through the cowl vents. Paying the asking price like I did was probably about double what the vehicle was worth back then.

Top Hood.JPG


Hood underside.JPG


Pass Door Rust.JPG


Lt Quarter.JPG


Rearview Mirror.JPG


Trunk Rust.JPG
 
I melted a small patch of the seat of the driver's side bucket when I placed a hot trouble light (with a conventional incandescent bulb) there. I ripped the drivers side of the otherwise flawless convertible top when folding it down, without having pulled the padding from the scissors mechanism. The patch yellowed in the sun. I since stuffed loose foam in that spot, which makes the matter worse. Not much visibility out the rear window. So far my "restoration" has been more like an "annihilation."

Driver Bucket.JPG


Back Seat.JPG


Pass Door Panel.JPG


Top Rip.JPG


Headliner.JPG


Rear Window.JPG


Rear Seat AshtrayJPG.JPG
 
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Runs smooth at highway speeds, rough idle, uneven compression the one time I checked it (years ago). Recently I "carefully" pulled off the spark plug cables, but nonetheless, the ends came off. Two plugs are oil/fuel fowled (top left in last photo).

Distributor.JPG


plug wire 3JPG.JPG


Spark Plugs.JPG
 
I borrowed the original rocker shafts and rocker arms to use on a 340/305 project motor I am working on. Recently, I finally purchased a second set of used 273 rocker arms/shafts and this month I plan on installing them. Needed to clean/brush the inside of the shafts, replace the end plugs, polish up the rocker tips, and a quick hone job inside the rocker arms. The adjusting screws were bathed in PB Blaster time and again. So far the rusty valve covers have been degreased, rubbed down with a scratch pad, and have one coat of Ospho. Now trying to clean up the rocker shaft bolt holes a little. Just trying to get the engine running again so I can move the vehicle around accordingly. Not a rebuild!

shaft 1.JPG


Blue Magic.JPG


Rocker Tip Polished.JPG


rocker ball.JPG


rocker hone.JPG


Valve Covers Washed.JPG


Valve Covers Treated.JPG


Valve Covers Varnish.JPG


valve train 2.JPG
 
Are green fins on the radiator evidence of a coolant leak or is that just a reaction of copper with the atmosphere? Six blade fan and no factory shroud.

Radiator 1.JPG


Radiator 2.JPG


Radiator 3.JPG
 
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A few more photos to demonstrate the general condition of the vehicle at this time. (Rallye wheel on front belongs to our '65 Barracuda Formula "S")

Front View.JPG


Pass Headlamp.JPG


Passenger Signal.JPG


Fender Emblem.JPG


Side View.JPG


Rear View.JPG


Horns.JPG


K Frame.JPG


Cowl.JPG


Air Cleaner.JPG
 
Accomplished another step with the factory valve covers which I refuse to sand down (just want to get the engine started). Used a scuff pad one more time to remove residue from the Ospho, cleaned up with wax/grease remover, and shot a coat of black RustOleum rust reformer. I find some previous owner brazed around the bolt holes which always split open in that location if one is too aggressive with torquing the tiny fasteners. Before "paint" and ten minutes later:

Valve Cover braze 2.JPG


Valve Cover Prepped.JPG


Valve Cover Rust Reformer.JPG
 
I'll be installing one of my "limited production" food-grade stainless steel glove box inserts when the time comes. They are patterned after the stock ones (made one for my '72 BBody as well).

stainless glove box.JPG
 
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Did not really "restore" rims and baby moons, just cleaned them up a little to prevent more deterioration. From the factory, the outside of the rim was painted black, the inside of the rim was an army green which I imagine was just the rust preventative first-coat they used on the body. I removed all kinds of wheel balance weights on both the inside and outside of both rims, scattered randomly all over. Evidently the dumbshit who last balanced the tires did not think to remove the old weights first.

Used chrome polish on the rear trim rings and moons (first photo). Degreased the rear rims, then a coat of Ospho (second photo), used a scratch pad to remove any residue from the Ospho, then a quick coat of RustOleum rust reformer (third photo). Did not sand anything anywhere.

The tires are 22 year-old Cooper's, only suitable for pulling in and out of the driveway.

Baby Moon.JPG


wheel before.JPG


wheel after 1.JPG
 
Update: I "preserved" the factory air cleaner by washing, wire brush on drill, sanding, Ospho coating, and gray RustOleum primer. In like fashion to the valve covers, I did not strip all of the paint. This is not the finished product, just interim stuff. Now limited by social security income, this restoration is quickly going from the idea of a complete rotisserie job, to a rat rod/patina thing. (see post #12 above to examine air cleaner original condition)

convertible air cleaner 1.JPG


convertible air cleaner 2.JPG


convertible air cleaner 3.JPG
 
I replaced two bent pushrods, installed a set of used 273 rocker arms and shafts, hand-me-down Accel 8mm plug wires, and Autolite 66 plugs. Adjusted the valves .016"/.025" cold, primed the carb, and with the aid of jumper cables on the dead battery, the motor came to life after about 10 seconds of cranking after sitting for 3 years.

I cannot determine why after sitting for years without the rocker shafts installed that I found two pushrods from intake #5 and #6 bent when I put things back together (one barely bent, one severely bent). Must of been Mighty Mouse working out?

bent pushrod.JPG


rocker shaft 3.JPG


finished loom 1.JPG
 
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The timing upon initial fire-up was exactly TDC. I re-adjusted it to 10 degrees BTDC. The dwell was reading 20 while cranking, but then 28-30 idling (that was strange). I adjusted the carb mixture screws which sped up the idle speed. Dropped the idle speed back down and re-installed the vacuum advance hose. Specs call for 600 RPM idle with headlights on, I raised it a tad in order to smooth the idle out a bit more.

There is quite a jar/clunk when shifting from park to either reverse or drive. The temperature on the intake manifold near the temp sensor was 180 degrees according to the CEN-TECH infrared thermometer. The factory coolant temperature and fuel gauge are not working (there is an aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge installed by a previous owner).

After I pulled back into garage, I noticed a small puddle of oil on the concrete. I can drive it around now (a little disconcerting with no factory power steering or power brakes) except the registration is not current (non-op status).
 
A better photo of the script written on the junkyard differential cover, now we can read the ratio "2.76". This swap explains why only the front driver's side wheel uses the left hand threaded lug nuts.

Dodge Dart 2.76JPG.JPG
 
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