Has anyone installed there engine & trans together ? Ive always put the engine in & then the transmission but do to the fact I don't have the room any more I have to do things alittle different. My garage only has a 6 1/2 ft ceiling. I will have to push the car out in the driveway to put the engine in. I think it would make things easier if I could put the engine & transmission in together. Never done it Never seen it done Is it easy Pain in the *** Anyone have any tips ? thanks
ENGINE & TRANS INSTALL
- Thread starter cawley
- Start date
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It can be done, you just need one of those "engine levellors"...
If you are running headers they have to be hung in the engine bay before you drip the engine in... I use either an old wire coat hanger or some string... Some exhaust manifolds and starters may be installed before you drop the engine...
Also do not install the carburetor and crank pulley before dropping the engine as they can be in the way when you drop the engine in...
Raise it up while it is level...
Bring it over the radiator support and start to tilt...
Carefully guide the tail of the trans into the tunnel...
Raise the tilted engine te get over the radiator support...
Guide the oil pan hump so it just clears the radiator support...
Clear the radiator support with the oil pan and start lowering and levelling the engine again... Try to keep the tail of the trans toward the top of the trans tunnel (Don't have the trans cross member in yet...
Now put the headers in place just before landing the engine on the motor mounts on the k-frame...
Put the other side header on the engine...
Then drop the engine on the k-frame mounts... Level the engine and climb under and install the trans mount and trans cross member before disconnecting the engine from the hoist, and the engine is in - you just have to install the rest of the parts...
If you are running headers they have to be hung in the engine bay before you drip the engine in... I use either an old wire coat hanger or some string... Some exhaust manifolds and starters may be installed before you drop the engine...
Also do not install the carburetor and crank pulley before dropping the engine as they can be in the way when you drop the engine in...
Raise it up while it is level...
Bring it over the radiator support and start to tilt...
Carefully guide the tail of the trans into the tunnel...
Raise the tilted engine te get over the radiator support...
Guide the oil pan hump so it just clears the radiator support...
Clear the radiator support with the oil pan and start lowering and levelling the engine again... Try to keep the tail of the trans toward the top of the trans tunnel (Don't have the trans cross member in yet...
Now put the headers in place just before landing the engine on the motor mounts on the k-frame...
Put the other side header on the engine...
Then drop the engine on the k-frame mounts... Level the engine and climb under and install the trans mount and trans cross member before disconnecting the engine from the hoist, and the engine is in - you just have to install the rest of the parts...
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Set the car on the motor trans and k member. Remember the more weight that is in the back of the car behind the wheels the easier it is to lift the front of the car up. Years back I worked out of a garage with that same height. We would do it all the time . You will never put a motor in a mopar unibody car from the top again.
Put everything together on the k member, headers ,steering ,harness and all . The most important is placing the motor at the height that when you pick the car up and move it over the motor and set it down that the front and rear of the K-member are at the correct height so when the car is set on it . you can start all the K member bolts. Use a jack under the back of the trans to to lift the motor up and down to start the bolts.
You don't need a lift to do this. Just some friends. Don't use a stand as high as these that I have. We would set the k-member on wood blocks. set the K-member a little above ride height. The motor and trans should be at the same angle as the body when they meet. Some guys use a hoist. We would just lift the car by hand and wheel it over the motor years ago before I had a shop. . By hand do not install the alternator and take the distributor cap off. Remove the front bumper for front weight seats if you need and add a lot of weight in the trunk.
I remember one car we had so much weight in the rear and it had no seats?interior and front bumper was off . We had to pull it down to meet the k -member. I have not installed a motor from the top in over 30 years and I did many. Even hemis come in from the bottom. Big blocks its a no brainer.
Put everything together on the k member, headers ,steering ,harness and all . The most important is placing the motor at the height that when you pick the car up and move it over the motor and set it down that the front and rear of the K-member are at the correct height so when the car is set on it . you can start all the K member bolts. Use a jack under the back of the trans to to lift the motor up and down to start the bolts.
You don't need a lift to do this. Just some friends. Don't use a stand as high as these that I have. We would set the k-member on wood blocks. set the K-member a little above ride height. The motor and trans should be at the same angle as the body when they meet. Some guys use a hoist. We would just lift the car by hand and wheel it over the motor years ago before I had a shop. . By hand do not install the alternator and take the distributor cap off. Remove the front bumper for front weight seats if you need and add a lot of weight in the trunk.
I remember one car we had so much weight in the rear and it had no seats?interior and front bumper was off . We had to pull it down to meet the k -member. I have not installed a motor from the top in over 30 years and I did many. Even hemis come in from the bottom. Big blocks its a no brainer.
Also make sure you get an engine levellor with acme threads and not standard threads or your arm will get tired by cranking it so much...
This is the way we did them in the 70's when all that fresh paint didn't mean a thing.
that was the nice thing about fresh rattle can splatter, easy to touch up
so much easier to put it in from the bottom if you're doing both.
I've done it through the top for years. Then started lowering the car over the engine and transmission. I have to say, it's much easier to lower the car over the engine. A little more work, but that little more work makes it SO much easier. Once you do it that way, you'll be hooked like a bass.
@krazykuda laid it out well. I would place rugs or blankets around the engine compartment. Below I had a rug across the core support but didn't have anything on the cowl and put a little scratch in it with the extension housing. I always use a floor jack under the transmission extension housing to catch it and help level it.
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Kitty and I were talkin about you just last night. You still enjoy how the car's runnin?
Thanks for thinking about me! Yes we are still enjoying the car with the new engine! It's a lot different feel than the 273. A good different.
I haven't had a chance to drive it in a couple of weeks. Two weeks ago it rained every day. And last week I worked my butt off at my job.
Over the past couple of days I put the fbo limit plate in the distributor. At 18 initial I was going well over 36 total. I got it together this morning, just need to put it back in and reset timing and idle mixture. I also replaced the valve cover gaskets. I think some of the"blow by" was just leaky gaskets.
I should get it back in today. Then I'll take it on a drive to make sure I didn't screw up the distributor, lol.
That will make a noticeable difference. I am glad it came together so well. I feel good to have had even the smallest part in it. Maybe one day I'll get to see it!
He'll yeah man! You played a big part in helping this engine building rookie through the build. The cam, for sure. And...the transmission would still be dragging behind a factory stall converter if I wouldn't have took your advice. I still can't believe how well the 9.5" converter works. Oh, and you gave suggestions on the roller rockers too!! I really appreciate your help on it.
Maybe we can do another meet at Summit. Probably have to wait until the dog days of summer are behind us. It was 98* in Rome yesterday!!!
I agree about waiting on the cooler weather. I actually get a better feeling helping others than I do getting my own stuff to come together.
Got the distributor in, set initial to 18, total is 34 with the FBI plate set at 16. All in at 2500. Is that too soon??
Anywho, tool my next door neighbor's father (who is visiting) for a ride. He worked in the Chrysler transmission plant!! Runs great!!
No, that's probably just right. I forget......you have a pretty aggressive rear gear, don't you?
3:55's. It gets there pretty quickly, lol.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
FWIW, your issues to deal with from the top with a big block & trans assembly IMO are...
The angle of the assembly and the tail housing dragging the ground if you don't lift the rear of the car when installing. It's even worse with 727.
Oil pan clearance on the K member and bell housing to firewall gets really tight. This is one of those areas Oldmanmopar warns about your paint. Even worse with a 7 or 8 quart pan and scatter shield.
Heater blower motor will be very close as well as the bulk head connector, even worse with a 440.
Headers, I have FWs, so your on your own there.
The angle of the assembly and the tail housing dragging the ground if you don't lift the rear of the car when installing. It's even worse with 727.
Oil pan clearance on the K member and bell housing to firewall gets really tight. This is one of those areas Oldmanmopar warns about your paint. Even worse with a 7 or 8 quart pan and scatter shield.
Heater blower motor will be very close as well as the bulk head connector, even worse with a 440.
Headers, I have FWs, so your on your own there.
i completely get the back thing, i'm lucky, mine feels better when i'm laying under a car. but when you drop the car over everything you can have the trans and motor already bolted up. make a dolly like 1969383S, get some weight in the trunk like OMM suggests, and bolt some short extensions to the front frame rails, and you'll be amazed how easy it is.
either way, you'll get it
Engine tilter.
This page has many; https://www.summitracing.com/search...ending&keyword=Engine tilter&kr=Engine tilter
This page has many; https://www.summitracing.com/search...ending&keyword=Engine tilter&kr=Engine tilter
ive used the ones from harbor freight & they work fine just might get one from there
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