Should I leave it Stock?

AJ/FormS said
The engine does not suck on the carburator.
The pistons go down and create a low pressure area, which the atmosphere then tries to fill.
Your tight-gap plasma-Moly rings and perfectly round/not tapered/ not ridged, 50plus year old cylinders (cough-cough,lol) are gonna set the stage for how low a pressure your engine can create. This sets the stage for how much air is gonna find it's way in there. Next are the restrictions of the intake valves , the runners and the throttle bores. And finally, the cam decides how long this column of air is gonna be allowed to flow. If your engine can physically only induct 300cfm of air, then it matters not in the least as to power, how big a carb you put on it.
Your 2bbl is good to ~3600, It will flow enough air, to about 3600, to not hold your 273 back.So 3600 in first gear with 2.76s is 33mph and say you are gonna shift at 4400 so that will be ~44 mph. At the shift the Rs will drop to 2600, and then,second will hit 60@3300. Wait what? That's right, with 2.76 rear gears, the only time the 4bbl is needed, is from 33 to 44 mph, in first gear. How often are you in that zone at WOT? Is the buy-in worth it to you?

How often am I in first at 33 to 44 mph... admittedly almost never. (I thought I was in second by that time.... but I bet the previous owner did not adjust the speedometer for the taller tire setup. Hmmm...).
Would I at least be getting better "throttle response" either at part throttle or going to WOT with smaller primaries that won't be dumping as much fuel in...?
I understand that an engine can physically only induct so much air but the mixture in the cylinder also maters. To me that is where the headers come into play for some scavenging reducing the residuals left in the cylinder. Yes the exhaust valve will be the limiting factor but I would spec cam with a slightly longer exhaust duration to compensate for the unequal intake and exhaust valve size. This should allow for a slightly more aggressive timing. There is no way the factory manifolds can be doing any good here especially the drivers side.

I understand that the other components will end being the restriction but an additional reason for me to go to a 4 barrel set up is for tuning. Right now I have no clue what the afr/lamda is but I am guessing it is off as I live a 4000ft+ elevation and the car came from sea level. (To me all the more reason to try and get more air into the engine.) I do not think I have options to re-jet the stock Stromberg unit to get my mixture in check and advancing the timing a couple degrees to increase cylinder pressure is just a band aid. Where as an after market carburetor has plenty of support from the manufacture. The reason to go 4 barrel over a two barrel for this application is the better intake. (Plus, have you seen the price of a holley 2 barrel.) At this point I already have the manifold.