Lean burn removal

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DSavage

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I need some help. I'm getting rid of the lean burn on my slant six 1983 d150 and purchased what I thought would help me swap out the distributor, ecu, harness and ballist resistor part of the project. I read the slantsix.org article listing what I'd need to get in order to do this, so I bought this kit off of ebay:
MOPAR Slant Six Electronic Ignition Kit Plymouth Dodge Chrysler 170-198-225 Dart | eBay

I had to contact the seller to ask him a question and he says his kit is not for a lean burn system, looks like those parts are correct to me though? and maybe he's just not realizing I'm swapping out the lean burn, but at the moment I'm not hearing back from him. Any help would be appreciated.
 
That setup should work. I can't help you with wiring I have no documentation on the lean burn pickups
 
67Dart273 said:
That setup should work. I can't help you with wiring I have no documentation on the lean burn pickups
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Thanks! I thought I was losing my mind since those parts seemed correct to me based on my research. I appreciate your verification. You don't off hand know if you'd remove the voltage regulator do you? I saw someone say that but I don't see that in the slantsix.org article. article
 
That kit will work but you would probably get off cheaper by going the HEI route.
For that all you would need is the same electronic distributor, a 4 pin HEI module, module heat sink and a relay. The relay can be optional, but it assures a good 12v power source to the HEI module. You would make your own wiring harness but it is not complicated.
From the existing Lean Burn harness and vacuum tube collection. About the only thing that is carried over is the 12v plus to the coil that is powered on when the ignition key is on.

don’t just scrap out your existing ‘locked’ lean burn distributor. They can be used for ECU control on Fuel Injection systems. I use one to trigger the MS3 Pro FI system in the 68 Barracuda.
 
my68barracuda said:
That kit will work but you would probably get off cheaper by going the HEI route.
For that all you would need is the same electronic distributor, a 4 pin HEI module, module heat sink and a relay. The relay can be optional, but it assures a good 12v power source to the HEI module. You would make your own wiring harness but it is not complicated.
From the existing Lean Burn harness and vacuum tube collection. About the only thing that is carried over is the 12v plus to the coil that is powered on when the ignition key is on.

don’t just scrap out your existing ‘locked’ lean burn distributor. They can be used for ECU control on Fuel Injection systems. I use one to trigger the MS3 Pro FI system in the 68 Barracuda.
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Thanks man! I figure I should probably stay with the kit I bought since I'd rather not go through the whole return process if the parts will work but I'll definitely consider what you're saying!

Sounds like I gotta track down a wiring diagram somewhere.
 
I've also heard I could maybe just keep my current lean burn intake and just disconnect the O2 sensor and intake air temp sensor and it would likely be fine. Any takers on that idea? Haha
 
Get a factory service manual for your car. It will have a wiring diagram. What "I" would do would be to find the 12V switched feed to the lean burn system and use "that" for my 12V ignition feed. Once you find that 12V source, you can remove all the "other" lean burn wiring. That's how "I" would do it. Opinions vary.
 
DSavage said:
I've also heard I could maybe just keep my current lean burn intake and just disconnect the O2 sensor and intake air temp sensor and it would likely be fine. Any takers on that idea? Haha
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Does your '83 D150 actually have an O2 sensor? My OE Lean Burn equipped '83 D150 with a slant six did not.
If there is an O2 sensor, check to see if there are wires going into the fuel bowl on the carb. If there is, you will also need a pre emissions controlled carb.

Concerning just disconnecting a couple of sensors. The Lean Burn system controls the engine's ignition advance, so if the Lean Burn was not getting the correct inputs it is not likely that it would function better.
 
Kool video- I did not see anywhere how to “put the smoke back in the box” when the dang thing “pops!” :rofl:
 
Of course now that you've invented it, you need to SERVICE it

 
my68barracuda said:
Does your '83 D150 actually have an O2 sensor? My OE Lean Burn equipped '83 D150 with a slant six did not.
If there is an O2 sensor, check to see if there are wires going into the fuel bowl on the carb. If there is, you will also need a pre emissions controlled carb.

Concerning just disconnecting a couple of sensors. The Lean Burn system controls the engine's ignition advance, so if the Lean Burn was not getting the correct inputs it is not likely that it would function better.
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Thanks! Yes it has the O2 sensor and wires going to the fuel bowl, and I have a pre emissions carb ready to install You think I'm okay to just use the same intake, seems ok to me?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Get a factory service manual for your car. It will have a wiring diagram. What "I" would do would be to find the 12V switched feed to the lean burn system and use "that" for my 12V ignition feed. Once you find that 12V source, you can remove all the "other" lean burn wiring. That's how "I" would do it. Opinions vary.
Click to expand...
Thanks!!
 
I appreciate all of the help, this is an article that others might find helpful too, unless I'm missing something it pretty much spells it out.
article
 
DSavage said:
Thanks! Yes it has the O2 sensor and wires going to the fuel bowl, and I have a pre emissions carb ready to install You think I'm okay to just use the same intake, seems ok to me?
Click to expand...
Yes you can use the same intake.
You can even use the same air cleaner housing, just remove the LB module and cover the opening with a piece of sheet metal.
 
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my68barracuda said:
Yes you can use the same intake.
You can even use the same air cleaner housing, just remove the LB module and cover the opening with a piece of sheet metal.
Click to expand...

Right on thanks! I'm pretty much a new but do know myself around these engines pretty well.

Another question regarding my needing the electronic ignition wiring diagram (which I as of yet don't have... the instructions seems pretty straightforward, seems like it's mostly figuring out is the 12v piece right? I pasted the part I'm talking about below from the slantsix.org instructions.

"Connect the 12v+ lead from the new wiring to a source of power which is only on with the key turned to run. If removing the Lean Burn computer is desired, the positive power to the coil should be wired using the ballast resistor diagram. This involves providing straight 12v+ when the key is in the start position and ballast controlled voltage in the run position."
 
DSavage said:
Right on thanks! I'm pretty much a new but do know myself around these engines pretty well.

Another question regarding my needing the electronic ignition wiring diagram (which I as of yet don't have... the instructions seems pretty straightforward, seems like it's mostly figuring out is the 12v piece right? I pasted the part I'm talking about below from the slantsix.org instructions.

"Connect the 12v+ lead from the new wiring to a source of power which is only on with the key turned to run. If removing the Lean Burn computer is desired, the positive power to the coil should be wired using the ballast resistor diagram. This involves providing straight 12v+ when the key is in the start position and ballast controlled voltage in the run position."
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The OE wire that goes to the existing coil + should be hot only when the ignition is in the start and run position.
You can verify that with a multimeter.
You can use that same existing wire to power the coil and you can T off of it to provide power to the orange / chrome box or what ever you have. If going HEI you can T to the relay, using it as the trigger for the relay.
 
my68barracuda said:
The OE wire that goes to the existing coil + should be hot only when the ignition is in the start and run position.
You can verify that with a multimeter.
You can use that same existing wire to power the coil and you can T off of it to provide power to the orange / chrome box or what ever you have. If going HEI you can T to the relay, using it as the trigger for the relay.
Click to expand...
Thank you!
 
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