1964 Dart 4 speed with overdrive

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Slantsix64

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hey guy any of you guys done this swap I already have a 4 speed with the cast bell housing I know the later od four speeds have a different retainer diameter than the early cast iron, so would I need the later slant six bell housing? Aluminum, shifter with rods, etc?
 
hey guy any of you guys done this swap I already have a 4 speed with the cast bell housing I know the later od four speeds have a different retainer diameter than the early cast iron, so would I need the later slant six bell housing? Aluminum, shifter with rods, etc?

I'm looking at the same combination as you but I'm going to put my OD 4 speed behind a V8. I've searched the Goggle machine on A 833 od adaptation and found a lot of information on the input bearing retainer to bellhousing hole diameter issues. I found a lot of info on the Big Block Dart site. But I'll bet others on here have accomplished this and will chime in.
 
. . . .so would I need the later slant six bell housing? Aluminum, shifter with rods, etc?

yes to the bellhousing. I believe there’s an aluminum as well as a cast iron OD transmission. If you’re looking for a bell, I have one that I was going to take to the Mopar Nationals - no Nationals now!
 
yes to the bellhousing. I believe there’s an aluminum as well as a cast iron OD transmission. If you’re looking for a bell, I have one that I was going to take to the Mopar Nationals - no Nationals now!
Can you post a picture of it? Where the bell crank gets attached?
 
Can your slanty pull the gearsplits?
The ratios are 3.09-1.67-1.00-.73od.
Splits of 54-60-73 percent. Meaning, at each shift, the rpms will drop to those % splits. On the 1-2 shift, whatever you rev it to in first, the Rs will drop TO 54% in second and so on.

Lets say your current gear is 2.94. and with an 80"tire roll-out (25.5" tires), your rpm at 60Mph will be 2330 rpm in direct. Shifting into overdrive, the Rs will fall to 1700. Can your slanty pull 60@1700?
One thing I can guarantee you,
guarantee you,
is that your engine will not have nearly the required amount of ignition timing to make any kind of fuel economy, at 1700=60mph.

But suppose you already have 3.91s.
Now your cruise rpm will be 60=2260, and you will likely still not have nearly enough cruise-timing.

At 2400 your engine will want about 54 or more degrees of cruise timing. There is no way to get it with stock parts. So if yur thinking to install the OD box for fuel economy alone; it ain't gonna happen, or at least not at 1700rpm.
Of course running 3.91s is a huge advantage, lol.
To see where you are at;
> go rev your engine up to your cruising rpm and record your timing with the Vcan hooked up. I bet you can't get anywhere near 54*. If you can't get at least 28* at 2400rpm, check the Vcan and see if the diaphragm is ruptured.
If your diaphragm is good, then you will need to figure out how to get some decent cruise timing into the current combo, which will already increase your fuel economy substantially.

To run the OD box;
IMO
The smaller the engine is or the lower it's cylinder pressure, the more likely that engine is to require a change in rear gear.
But no matter what, the cruise timing is gonna need work.
 
Now I've never seen a cast iron version of the slant six over drive bellhousing......again, that doesn't mean a thing. lol All of them I've seen......and the one I HAVE have all been aluminum.
 
The best is to swap the O/D gear set into a small input bearing cast iron case. Next you have to find a 3/4 rod to work with the flipped 3/4 arm. Then get a drive shaft with the right slip yoke and you're done.
 
The best is to swap the O/D gear set into a small input bearing cast iron case. Next you have to find a 3/4 rod to work with the flipped 3/4 arm. Then get a drive shaft with the right slip yoke and you're done.
I tried that but my od-cluster didn't fit in the standard case. My case would have taken more grinding to fit it than I thought she had to give. So no biggie, I got the right parts.
 
I'm running 3.55 gears in the rear right now, after the swap I might run 3.91 also have 9:5 compression headers 473 lift cam on 256 duration Howard's. I currently have the 64-65 four speed with cast iron bell housing.

Actually when I'm lazy I shift from 1st to 3rd then fourth. When I'm really lazy I go from 1st to 4th lol.
 
I tried that but my od-cluster didn't fit in the standard case. My case would have taken more grinding to fit it than I thought she had to give. So no biggie, I got the right parts.

I go for the early 64 65 case. I figure they were clearanced for the low, larger, 1st gear. Not a problem so far.
 
So no body has used the later aluminum bell housing with the early abody four speed clutch linkage, probably going to have to try it out myself. Know the bell crank is different in the aluminum probably going to have a fab a bell crank, hopefully everything else mates up.
 
Doesn’t Brewer’s have the conversion for that? A friend of mine is going with a V8 and 833OD in his 65 Valiant. He said Brewer’s set him up with the conversion to go from the early A chassis to the later V8 OD bellhousing
 
Doesn’t Brewer’s have the conversion for that? A friend of mine is going with a V8 and 833OD in his 65 Valiant. He said Brewer’s set him up with the conversion to go from the early A chassis to the later V8 OD bellhousing
Yes but that's for v8 i dunno if they have the set up for a slant six bell that's aluminum
 
So no body has used the later aluminum bell housing with the early abody four speed clutch linkage, probably going to have to try it out myself. Know the bell crank is different in the aluminum probably going to have a fab a bell crank, hopefully everything else mates up.

I did it long before I knew about Brewers performance. I had already swapped over to a 71 340 bell Housing behind the 273. Next went in a hot 170 with an aluminum O/D bellhousing. If I remember correctly I just used that linkage and it worked great. Sooooo, maybe the Early A conversion stuff will get you there. It would be faster, cheaper, and better to just buy a cast iron 307 64 or 65 Main case and swap everything into that. No guess work and nothing else to buy.
 
I go for the early 64 65 case. I figure they were clearanced for the low, larger, 1st gear. Not a problem so far.

My problem was not the first gear, both the 3.09 low from 64/65 and the 3.09 from the overdrive, and the 2.66 from the standard A833 in my stock; are all the same MS gear .
My problem was the huge overdrive gear on the cluster. I would have had to cut my standard 2.66 cast-iron case at least .25 to .38 inch in that area (IIRC), just to get to zero interference. That's a chitload of work, and if I cut thru, ........ so I just put it all back into the aluminum box and got the proper BH. The local JY had a pile of them
 
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I did it long before I knew about Brewers performance. I had already swapped over to a 71 340 bell Housing behind the 273. Next went in a hot 170 with an aluminum O/D bellhousing. If I remember correctly I just used that linkage and it worked great. Sooooo, maybe the Early A conversion stuff will get you there. It would be faster, cheaper, and better to just buy a cast iron 307 64 or 65 Main case and swap everything into that. No guess work and nothing else to buy.
Hmm so probably can use the z bar torque shaft and have it shortened, I remember I had to shorten it to have the aluminum small block 10.5 clutch in my 65.
 
If you’re looking for a bell, I have one that I was going to take to the Mopar Nationals - no Nationals now!

Can you post a picture of it? Where the bell crank gets attached?

Here you go. No front cover but it does gave the bottom cover and include the clutch fork. i know it has a casting number - someplace on it - but I’ll be damned if i could find it!

CA2783F6-AA3B-43A2-92A7-241216917E5B.jpeg


842B10E6-3804-49C8-9D0B-B2209B8500CD.jpeg


468ABC08-2353-4834-8A21-97E9AC7BD047.jpeg
 
Can your slanty pull the gearsplits?
The ratios are 3.09-1.67-1.00-.73od.
Splits of 54-60-73 percent. Meaning, at each shift, the rpms will drop to those % splits. On the 1-2 shift, whatever you rev it to in first, the Rs will drop TO 54% in second and so on.

Lets say your current gear is 2.94. and with an 80"tire roll-out (25.5" tires), your rpm at 60Mph will be 2330 rpm in direct. Shifting into overdrive, the Rs will fall to 1700. Can your slanty pull 60@1700?
One thing I can guarantee you,
guarantee you,
is that your engine will not have nearly the required amount of ignition timing to make any kind of fuel economy, at 1700=60mph.

But suppose you already have 3.91s.
Now your cruise rpm will be 60=2260, and you will likely still not have nearly enough cruise-timing.

At 2400 your engine will want about 54 or more degrees of cruise timing. There is no way to get it with stock parts. So if yur thinking to install the OD box for fuel economy alone; it ain't gonna happen, or at least not at 1700rpm.
Of course running 3.91s is a huge advantage, lol.
To see where you are at;
> go rev your engine up to your cruising rpm and record your timing with the Vcan hooked up. I bet you can't get anywhere near 54*. If you can't get at least 28* at 2400rpm, check the Vcan and see if the diaphragm is ruptured.
If your diaphragm is good, then you will need to figure out how to get some decent cruise timing into the current combo, which will already increase your fuel economy substantially.

To run the OD box;
IMO
The smaller the engine is or the lower it's cylinder pressure, the more likely that engine is to require a change in rear gear.
But no matter what, the cruise timing is gonna need work.

AJ, I really appreciate the time and effort you put into your responses. But you tend to use worst case numbers in your calcs. Like tire diameter and rear end ratio.

I'm currently still using the original 3 speed manual and 3.23 in my 64 Valiant with 185/70 X 14 tires that are the same diameter as the original 6.50x13"s at 24.3 inches. According to my GPS, my speedo is dead nuts accurate at 70 MPH. I mean 70=70 so no BS here. I drove it to Carlisle a few weeks ago and my route is 5 miles from my house to the Ohio Turnpike entrance, then 310 miles to the Carlisle exit on the PA turnpike. 310 miles each way total, exactly 5 hrs with one stop at the half way point. The speed limit is 70 The whole way and that's what I cruise at. I fill up by my house and fill up again right off the Carlisle exit. This year 20.8 MPG, gas station to gas station.

But I know the 100% rebuilt, warmed up 225 in my 64 Valiant could pull the O/D trans and get better MPG. I just dont like the gear spread. Currently my engine speed at 70 is 3000 rpm. Multiply that by .73 and the rpm at 70 drops to 2190. Driving the car in its current state, the sweet cruising speed is around 2000 rpm. I can feel it at about 45 MPH.
There is a 1/4 mile long fairly steep inclined road near my house and my slant climbs that easily in top gear at 35 mph. In fact, it will accelerate while going up.
I have an aluminum Volare OD trans with BH, shifter, and fork ready to go. If it was good enough for the F bodies I feel it would work fine in my 2800 lb car.
 
Whoa; I just asked a question.

Can your slanty pull the gearsplits?

The 6-cylinder A903 came in two flavors;
2.95-1.83-1.00; splits of .62/.55 the usual unit;and
3.22-1.84-1.00; splits of .57/.54, compared to
3.09-1.67-1.00; splits of .54/.60 for the od
these are all VERY wide ratio boxes and have to be, to cover the useable rpm range.
As you can see, the A903 has a Wide 1-2 and a shorter, but still very wide, 2-3, and
the od box has a wider-than-A903, 1-2 and a shorter-than A903, 2-3. You can see it in the splits
Op currently has the Commando-box;
3.09-1.92-1.40-1.00 splits of .62/.73/.71 This has a deep low to get out of the hole, followed by 3 close ratios. From first to third is .45, which Op finds doable with 3.55 gears.
Ok so lets check it out as a final drive ratios.
with 3.55s we get 10.97-6.82-4.97-3.55, and the jump from 10.97 to 4.97 is acceptable to him when being lazy. I currently have this same combo. I like it a lot.
Ok so with a 4.97 third gear; 1500 rpm is 23.25 mph and if his slanty can pull that gear at that rpm, at anything but very small throttle opening without detonating would be a miracle. But lets just say it does it. To get to 23.25mph in first gear would require an rpm of 3525. So what is Op saying? Is he reving first to 3525 to drop into third at 1500 so the dang car will continue pulling? IDK.
But what's gonna happen with the od box?
Still with 3.55s the gears are; 10.97-5.93-3.55-2.59 ..Now the 1-3 split is .32, and 1500 in 3.55 gear is 29.5 mph, (more than 6 mph higher so a longer pull), and to get there in first will require reving to 4445 rpm. So that is never gonna play out in the real world, except at WOT.
But look at the 1-2 shift; 5.93 is not very far removed from 4.97.. So lets take it up to 23.25mph as before.
this will be 2273 in second, and 3500 in first. Ok that's all right, except this is now a mandatory shift. There is no longer an in-between gear.
The split with any rear gear will remain the same when calculated as percent. The only thing that changing the rear gear does is change at what roadspeed the shifts occur.

Lets look at this a lil differently; With a 256*, I doubt that OP cares much about fuel mileage. And with the od trans and no other changes, I can almost guarantee the mileage will not change worth spit, and if it does, it will just be worse. So lets not even go there.

Lets say OP just wants Rapid Transit to 60/65mph, and that is the reason for the 3.91s. Lets set this up: first the 3.55s and the Commando trans.
10.97-6.83-4.97-3.55, then the od and 3.91s;
12.08-6.53-3.91-2.85
Ok so look at it; second gear is practically identical, but third gear is waaaaay out to the right, and first is waaay out to the left. Forcing you to rev waaay higher to be able to drop into the next gear at a reasonable pulling rpm. In other words the ET in that contest is gonna increase with the 3+1, because ..... the average power delivered to the road will be less. For low ET, this od-trans does the opposite of what the slanty needs.
Ok
The 256 cam makes peak power around 4700, so lets call it a 5000 shift and go thru the gears.
First the current set up;Commando and 3.55s
First to 5000@33mph,at the shift dropping to 3100 in 2nd, then pulling to 5000@53.5mph. Going into third the Rs drop to 3645, and then 5000=73 mph. 65 will be 4430, a lil low for a 4700rpm peak, but all in all a good pull.
Next, the od box and 3.91s.
First to 5000@30mph,dropping to 2700 into 2nd.Then pulling to 5000@55.8mph.Going into third (direct) the Rs drop to 2995, then 5000=93mph; 65 will be5820 in second/3485 in direct; NOT looking good.
Furthermore; check out from what rpm the od box is forced to pull from, compared to the Commando box. The 1-2 shift is down 400rpm; but the 2-3 is worse at 650rpm.
In a million years, for a performance slanty combo, I would not swap that Commando box out, for the od box. Not with any rear gear.
For all these calculations I used a 77inch roll-out, which is a 24.5" tire.
IMO, the Commando box is the best 4-speed for this combo, for rapid transit. Which is why I have one, after testing every other 4-speed box Mopar gave us in the 60s and 70s, and 80s.
Yes, I did run that od box, and besides breaking three of them, Even my 367cuber did not like those splits, even with 185 psi Cylinder pressure! So much so that I bought a GVod to split those bad-boy ratios. In the end, I found full-time splitting too much of a PITA, and swapped that od box out, in favor of the Commando box. Best move I ever made with my combo.

Now for a grocery getter or a cruiser, I would give a different answer. But the Howards 256 would likely have to go. It's great cam for performance, but has a narrow powerband, not very well suited to the wide overdrive ratios. But is very well suited to the Commando box.
On a 5000 shift,
the Commando has a powerband requirement of ~1400 rpm.
the od box is 2300 on the 1-2, and 2000 on the 2-3.
The wider splits are also harder for the synchronizers to match speeds, read slower.How much slower? Just enough to notice and be aggravating, in my combo, coming from the 2.66 standard box. I fixed that with the Splitter.
 
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My problem was not the first gear, both the 3.09 low from 64/65 and the 3.09 from the overdrive, and the 2.66 from the standard A833 in my stock; are all the same MS gear .
My problem was the huge overdrive gear on the cluster. I would have had to cut my standard 2.66 cast-iron case at least .25 to .38 inch in that area (IIRC), just to get to zero interference. That's a chitload of work, and if I cut thru, ........ so I just put it all back into the aluminum box and got the proper BH. The local JY had a pile of them

Funny, I've done 4 or 5 so far and not a problem. I also know of someone running an O/D behind a 440 six pack in the original 440 case, just took a little clearancing. I always take a box apart anyway, so replacing a main case for $125 solves a lot of problems and I can just bolt it up to any A Body bellhousing. I don't have to play with clutch linkage and the only thing I have to change is the 3/4 shifter rod and arm. In a /6 there is no advantage to the newer Bellhousing since you are still limited to a 10" clutch.
 
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