How do you take the rear yoke off?

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67DodgeDart360

67DodgeDart360

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How do you take the rear yoke off? The bolts broke off in the yoke for the drive shaft. The rear I have is a 8-3/4. Please see pictures. Thanks

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since it is a 489 case there is a crush sleeve in there . it might be easier to take the whole center section out to work on it . or work on it where it is . i don]t know your skill level but that is an easy fix with stud pulling rods .or if you know what your doing heat , water and an easy out .
 
The big nut in the center of the yoke has to come off for the yoke to be removed. The above poster is correct. The 489 case 8 3/4 uses a crush sleeve inside the unit. If the nut is removed, the crush sleeve needs to be replaced. That means the center section has to be disassembled. Some will tell you you can just tighten the nut up to the exact same spot it was in before but that's not the correct way to do it. If you are not prepared to disassemble the entire center section, I would not remove the nut/yoke.
 
Well this will start a pissing match. I’ve replace more seals on 489 cases without replacing the crush sleeve. I don’t even mark the nut and pinion. But I’ve done a bunch of them. If I were you I would mark the nut and a pinion with a line with a marker. But you do what you want.
 
A sleeve that rides between the front and rear pinion bearings that you when you tighten the pinion nut it crushes to set the bearing preload on a 489 differential.
 
Crush sleeve sets the preload of the pinion bearing. You can tighten that nut until the bearing case breaks so they give you a piece of thin wall pipe as a spacer between the bearing and the nut. When you approach the torque spec, (like 145 ft/lbs) the sleeve will start to deform and crushx setting the proper preload on the bearing. Other models used shims that needed to be stacked so the preload would be correct when the nut torque was correct, a juggling match as you had to do it a few times to get it correct. The sleeve is a one and done part. Set it and forget it bit tour supposed to replace it every time you break the nut torque. Just leave it in and work the broken stud while its on the pinion. That piece should not be in tight as the torque is gone with no head. May get lucky and have it walk itself out using a reverse drill bit.
 
I'm curious how they ALL broke in the first place. I wonder if someone used red loctite on them in the past.
 
Use an impact gun to get the nut off. I'd just buy a new yoke from Dr Diff. Chances are the seal surface is worn past its life.
 
SGBARRACUDA said:
Well this will start a pissing match. I’ve replace more seals on 489 cases without replacing the crush sleeve. I don’t even mark the nut and pinion. But I’ve done a bunch of them. If I were you I would mark the nut and a pinion with a line with a marker. But you do what you want.
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I've knocked so many nuts loose and removed yokes on crush sleeve rear ends to do "whatever" and never once replaced a crush sleeve and never had a minutes trouble. Not one.
 
I vote for replacement yoke due to the damage to the surface in the 10/ 11 o'clock position
 
Yep, that yoke is done! If you didn't lose the driveshaft this time, you probably will the next time it breaks. I've replaced a lot of seals by marking the nut, and marking the end of the pinion in the same spot. By the book? Nope, but like several have said....never had a problem. Chances are, @SGBARRACUDA (Roy) has a yoke he will sell you. If you talk real nice to him....he may even put a speedy sleeve on it if it needs it.
 
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