Some strut bushing info

Right? :rofl: You make fun but someone would actually do it and really mess things up.



Down side to the thicker bushings though is that while they allow the strut rod to pivot up and down better, they also allow more movement fore and aft, so the LCA can move more under braking and acceleration, causing alignment changes.

That's the issue with the original strut rods. You want nice soft bushings to reduce binding as the LCA travels up and down. But you want stiff bushings to keep the LCA from flexing forward and back. You can't have both. Which is why adjustable strut rods are nice. They pivot freely up and down, but don't allow movement fore/aft.

It wasn't long ago poly strut rod bushings were the cats meow for you. Now that someone else finally posted the correct style to use "which I would not have shown you" You say the whole strut rod is bad.

Once again if you use adjustable strut rods and the poly LCA bushings the swivel will let the arm move front to back even more on and off of the pin. The only way adjustable strut rods will work at all is with new OEM LCA bushings that were installed and tightened properly . If not the Arm slides on and off the pin even easier then with the OEM style that are ripped from improper tightening.

Why don't you just admit you wasted your money on the poly kit. POLY BUSHINGS DO NOT BELONG ON MOPAR FRONT SUSPENSIONS. Adjustable struts are just another moving part to fail. How long does a swivel stay tight on a socket set.? How many have broken from stress.

Just because you fell for the sales man selling ice to and eskimo pitch. don't push your mistake on others. Get off the suspension Garu post you have no idea of what you are talking about. LMFAO every time you post your knowledge on this. It won't be long and you'll have us using door hinges for faster lift after the Home depot guy talks you into them.