Some strut bushing info

Well I went and took some pictures of some differences and the shear sleeves. The first picture is of a worn rubber without the sleeve. The second picture is of one with the shear sleeve,

Note the first picture the rubber is worn but still there. Poly nipple would be totally chewed up and gone.

The second 2 pictures are with the sleeve. They are the best strut bushings you can install. That sleeve fits tight in the K-member and never shears because it is a metal sleeve molded in the bushing.

The male side of the bushings always go in from the front

The next pictures are of early 72 and older The OEM is a one piece. The other one is a 2 piece for 72 and older. I have some of them from years ago. I like them better then the one piece but they are harder to find today. You cannot use poly bushings with the early strut rods they are not long enough. You need to get the later coarse thread strut rods

Thanks for posting these

Over 120 views and one comment . None from anyone using or selling poly bushings . Maybe they have nothing to say after realizing they installed over rated junk. When I get some time which won't be for a while. I'll get some pics or video of the LCA bushings on a k member side by side. I'll pry that LCA with poly back and push the torsion bar right out of its socket.

I was wondering is there anyone living in the desert that would like to buy sand. Free shipping LOL

Thanks for the info better to know.

72bluNblu said:

I would suspect that no one has commented because without a part # or a supplier for those bushings the information is pretty much useless.

They haven't made strut rod bushings like that in decades, so, unless you know of someone other than you that has a large supply, there's no way to get them.

As far as your video, I eagerly await it. Just remember to hook up the strut rod first so your little "test" is accurate to what happens when the suspension is fully assembled.

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Even with a #PN the poly bushings are useless They thought they were OK and can never admit they are junk. Just think how many lability claims the would have..

These shear sleeve bushings are still out there My in-law who owns a NAPA store just got a set for a friend. When we can't find a part we call him. He knows all the old timers with parts when you need them. If you knew what I am talking about and you are saying they are not available. Then why when I mentioned them in another thread you posted a picture of spacer for the 2 piece strut. Not the shear sleeve. You have been caught ! make up some more stories. You really don't have a clue do you

Some times its better to accept advice then trying to keep making a point that you are totally in the dark on. There are times I am totally wrong . If someone shows me something that I was wrong about I will accept it and admit it. I have been learning these cars for over 50 years . I am still learning but I know what I have seen with my own eyes. I don't have to prove anything to you but I would like to show those who care what I have learned and what I know for fact. I won't be around much longer then who will this site have ? You! LOL

Today we are tearing down a Ed Hamburgers 340. We have saw things he did that were totally wrong. He was always the small block garu in my eyes. He built a strong motor but there were things that he didn't know that I see on this tear down. So even the best could be taught somethings. My son who I taught is now teaching me. There are times we just have to accept advice and learn from others. I would never say I am right about it all. but I will argue until someone shows me different.

I was once on a roof on a latter. The guy that was helping said step on the wood with your left foot he moved the wood . He was facing me he should have said his left foot instead of mine. I fell two floors and broke my back and ribs. Believe none of what you hear and 1/2 of what you see. Remember that advise.

Oldmanmopar said:

Even with a #PN the poly bushings are useless They thought they were OK and can never admit they are junk. Just think how many lability claims the would have..

These shear sleeve bushings are still out there My in-law who owns a NAPA store just got a set for a friend. When we can't find a part we call him. He knows all the old timers with parts when you need them. If you knew what I am talking about and you are saying they are not available. Then why when I mentioned them in another thread you posted a picture of spacer for the 2 piece strut. Not the shear sleeve. You have been caught ! make up some more stories. You really don't have a clue do you

Some times its better to accept advice then trying to keep making a point that you are totally in the dark on. There are times I am totally wrong . If someone shows me something that I was wrong about I will accept it and admit it. I have been learning these cars for over 50 years . I am still learning but I know what I have seen with my own eyes. I don't have to prove anything to you but I would like to show those who care what I have learned and what I know for fact. I won't be around much longer then who will this site have ? You! LOL

Today we are tearing down a Ed Hamburgers 340. We have saw things he did that were totally wrong. He was always the small block garu in my eyes. He built a strong motor but there were things that he didn't know that I see on this tear down. So even the best could be taught somethings. My son who I taught is now teaching me. There are times we just have to accept advice and learn from others. I would never say I am right about it all. but I will argue until someone shows me different.

I was once on a roof on a latter. The guy that was helping said step on the wood with your left foot he moved the wood . He was facing me he should have said his left foot instead of mine. I fell two floors and broke my back and ribs. Believe none of what you hear and 1/2 of what you see. Remember that advise.

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Ok, so post up the supplier where those strut rod bushings are available from so people that want good rubber strut rod bushings can order them. It doesn't matter how good they are if no one can get them. And "I know a guy that knows a guy" is not sufficient. Even if "that guy" can still get those parts (which I doubt), no one else can unless you share the information. So let's see it.

I'm not getting into the poly LCA bushing discussion with you again. You've proven repeatedly that you're unwilling to accept that you are in fact wrong. Try to play humble if you'd like, but the facts have been presented and you denied them and continue to make false claims about how they work. A properly installed poly LCA bushing in a properly assembled suspension will not do what you claim it does, so if you want to make a video you go right ahead. If you actually assemble everything correctly you'll prove yourself wrong.

Oldmanmopar said:

You are really as dumb as a rock. How did your parents ever get you to pedal forward when teaching you to ride a bike.

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So I take it that means you don't have a source for your strut rod bushings or video evidence of your claims?

MOOG K7040 bushing kit has the molded in inserts.

Oldmanmopar said:

Just ordered some they are available . They are around $40 per side. After all the bullshit from you nothing is easy. Get a life. I'll show you pics when they come in. I believe you cut off your nose to spite your face. LMAO

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So post the part number!!!! I don’t understand why that’s so hard. It’s literally the only thing I’ve asked you to do in this whole thread. Post the part number so someone other than you can order the “right” parts in your opinion.

I’ve ordered a set of the Moog K7068’s also, but they have not shipped and do not have a shipping date. So just ordering a set doesn’t necessarily mean a thing until you’ve actually received them.

Jimacuda said:

MOOG K7040 bushing kit has the molded in inserts.

View attachment 1715568519

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That part # is for the ‘67-72 strut rods and will most likely not fit the ‘73+ strut rods because the earlier strut rods are a smaller diameter on the end where the bushing rides.

5/8" ID on the K7040 bushing

Jimacuda said:

5/8" ID on the K7040 bushing

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‘73+ bushings have a 3/4” ID.

Do you have a close up picture of the K7040 bushings showing the metal insert?

And, thank you for posting that information. Seems like there’s a solution for the ‘67-72 cars that’s easy to obtain and would match OMM’s recommendation. Just the regular Moog parts.

All we needed was someone to post a part # and some info! Easy!

I'd think one could take some kind of 3/4" rasp bit and carefully open these up enough to fit 73 up.
Lots of material in there.

Jimacuda said:

I'd think one could take some kind of 3/4" rasp bit and carefully open these up enough to fit 73 up.
Lots of material in there.
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It’s not just the diameter though. On the ‘73+ strut rods the shoulder that holds the bushings is further back, the later bushings were thicker than the earlier ones. The overall length of the strut rods was different, although the effective length is the same. The section that holds the bushings is longer on the ‘73+ strut rods.

Thanks for the picture!

meh...toss on a few washers and its all good!

Jimacuda said:

meh...toss on a few washers and its all good!

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Right? You make fun but someone would actually do it and really mess things up.

The changes made over the production range were to improve function. With the original design you had thinner bushings and the washers cupped toward the K frame (concave to the bushing). If you overtighten the strut rods or the bushings collapse too much the washers end up very close to the K frame, so as the strut rod pivots up and down you run into the possibility of the washers limiting the travel as they tip into the K. The later bushings were larger to put the washers further away, less binding up and down. And then later at some point the washers were turned around, if you look at the Moog kit the washers are supposed to be installed with the cups facing away from the K frame (that's why they're stamped with directions), so concave side facing out instead of in like the originals.

Having the convex side toward the bushing lets the strut rod pivot more smoothly. But of course, if the convex side is to the bushing, you can't put a washer on the concave side as it will limit motion. And if you put it between the bushing and the convex side of the washer you eliminate the benefit of the convex washer. If you wanted to bore the early bushings for use on the later strut rods, you'd need to take up the gap by putting a spacer between the K frame and the bushings for everything to work properly.

Down side to the thicker bushings though is that while they allow the strut rod to pivot up and down better, they also allow more movement fore and aft, so the LCA can move more under braking and acceleration, causing alignment changes.

That's the issue with the original strut rods. You want nice soft bushings to reduce binding as the LCA travels up and down. But you want stiff bushings to keep the LCA from flexing forward and back. You can't have both. Which is why adjustable strut rods are nice. They pivot freely up and down, but don't allow movement fore/aft.

Jimacuda said:

MOOG K7040 bushing kit has the molded in inserts.

View attachment 1715568519

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One thing you have to do when using this #PN is get 67-72 strut rods. These bushings #PN k7040 are for 67-72. The fine thread strut rods are much better then the coarse thread and will be the correct length, Don't ruin them drilling them for the longer 73 rods. You'll be buying new bushings. these are the best you can get. far better then the scrap poly bushings 72bluNblu is giving sales pitches for. Also I will repeat the poly LCA bushings are also scrap.

72bluNblu said:

Right? You make fun but someone would actually do it and really mess things up.



Down side to the thicker bushings though is that while they allow the strut rod to pivot up and down better, they also allow more movement fore and aft, so the LCA can move more under braking and acceleration, causing alignment changes.

That's the issue with the original strut rods. You want nice soft bushings to reduce binding as the LCA travels up and down. But you want stiff bushings to keep the LCA from flexing forward and back. You can't have both. Which is why adjustable strut rods are nice. They pivot freely up and down, but don't allow movement fore/aft.

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It wasn't long ago poly strut rod bushings were the cats meow for you. Now that someone else finally posted the correct style to use "which I would not have shown you" You say the whole strut rod is bad.

Once again if you use adjustable strut rods and the poly LCA bushings the swivel will let the arm move front to back even more on and off of the pin. The only way adjustable strut rods will work at all is with new OEM LCA bushings that were installed and tightened properly . If not the Arm slides on and off the pin even easier then with the OEM style that are ripped from improper tightening.

Why don't you just admit you wasted your money on the poly kit. POLY BUSHINGS DO NOT BELONG ON MOPAR FRONT SUSPENSIONS. Adjustable struts are just another moving part to fail. How long does a swivel stay tight on a socket set.? How many have broken from stress.

Just because you fell for the sales man selling ice to and eskimo pitch. don't push your mistake on others. Get off the suspension Garu post you have no idea of what you are talking about. LMFAO every time you post your knowledge on this. It won't be long and you'll have us using door hinges for faster lift after the Home depot guy talks you into them.

Oldmanmopar said:

One thing you have to do when using this #PN is get 67-72 strut rods. These bushings #PN k7040 are for 67-72. The fine thread strut rods are much better then the coarse thread and will be the correct length, Don't ruin them drilling them for the longer 73 rods. You'll be buying new bushings. these are the best you can get. far better then the scrap poly bushings 72bluNblu is giving sales pitches for. Also I will repeat the poly LCA bushings are also scrap.

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So, if the fine thread strut rods were so great, why did the factory waste the time to redesign and replace them?

No reason to do that with the strut rods unless the newer parts were better, it's not like they changed to what was already being used on other platforms, they redesigned the strut rods across the board.

Oldmanmopar said:

It wasn't long ago poly strut rod bushings were the cats meow for you. Now that someone else finally posted the correct style to use "which I would not have shown you" You say the whole strut rod is bad.

Once again if you use adjustable strut rods and the poly LCA bushings the swivel will let the arm move front to back even more on and off of the pin. The only way adjustable strut rods will work at all is with new OEM LCA bushings that were installed and tightened properly . If not the Arm slides on and off the pin even easier then with the OEM style that are ripped from improper tightening.

Why don't you just admit you wasted your money on the poly kit. POLY BUSHINGS DO NOT BELONG ON MOPAR FRONT SUSPENSIONS. Adjustable struts are just another moving part to fail. How long does a swivel stay tight on a socket set.? How many have broken from stress.

Just because you fell for the sales man selling ice to and eskimo pitch. don't push your mistake on others. Get off the suspension Garu post you have no idea of what you are talking about. LMFAO every time you post your knowledge on this. It won't be long and you'll have us using door hinges for faster lift after the Home depot guy talks you into them.

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I have NEVER recommended poly strut rod bushings. Ever. You want to search all 10k of my posts you go ahead, but I've never recommended poly strut rod bushings. I have said that the reason yours failed was user error, and it was, but that's not a recommendation. The additional stiffness in the fore/aft direction is outweighed by the binding they'll add in the up/down travel direction. They're also not usually the right thickness, which causes alignment issues. I have always recommended adjustable strut rods and tossing the factory strut rods right in the recycle bin. And I still do, the factory strut rods were a "one size fits most" deal that never fit very well and depended on the big sloppy rubber bushings to take up production tolerances. The factory didn't care as long as the really basic factory alignment specs could be met. None of my cars will ever get factory strut rods.

How long do the "swivels" last? Well, the heims on my Challenger have 70k miles on them. Year round, all weather street miles with 1.12" torsion bars and 275/40/17's and 11.75" brakes hanging off of them. They're still tight and smooth, and that's without any boots covering them. None of the current production rubber bushings will last that long, the quality of the rubber just isn't there.

As for the poly LCA bushings, which are a totally different part than what we're discussing here, you're still completely wrong. Your little gimmick about the LCA's moving back on the pins is total BS, because with the suspension fully assembled the fore/aft movement of the LCA is controlled by the strut rod, the torsion bars, and even the shocks that are bolted to the LCA's. Which is another reason I always recommend adjustable strut rods, you actually get the strut rod length correct, not just hoping for the best with sloppy rubber bushings.

I haven't changed my tune OMM, and I haven't changed my mind. I only entered this thread at all because once again you were saying how great YOUR bushings are, but failing to provide any information that would allow anyone else to actually order and install them. And that hasn't changed, you make claim upon claim but can't post a part number. Fortunately, Jimacuda was nice enough to do the super easy thing and post a part number and a picture. So easy. So now, thanks to Jimacuda, the folks with 67-72 strut rods have a part number, K7040, that meets your standard. So someone that wants to use the stock parts, and wants to listen to you can actually order the parts you think they need. I honestly don't care, other than you keep posting information that no one can use with a part number you refused to provide. Like this whole thread is useless without that part number that Jimacuda gave.

Unfortunately, the '73+ strut rod bushings are all backordered, so we can't show if the K7068 bushings have the little metal sleeve. And yes, I did order a set. Don't you worry about why, it's not to install them on my car.

whats the part number for the correct 73+ bushing that napa has?

Naplm00 said:

whats the part number for the correct 73+ bushing that napa has?

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I have a set there that came in they should be delivering them tomorrow from NAPA. Maybe someone knows and they will chime in. It is common knowledge that fine thread are better than coarse thread rods. The later coarse thread strip easier and probably much cheaper to make. Also more forward and rearward movement.

If I would have a 73-76 and wasn't worried about being the way it came for the critics I would upgrade to the older strut rods and the rubber two piece bushings with the shear sleeve. They will be the last set you'll buy.

The important thing is when using the OEM style LCA bushings is to tighten them with the car at the recommended ride height. Bottom of the ball joint to the ground and center of the LCA pin to the ground. get the difference in the two. There is a required measurement for the difference. When this is correct that is when you tighten the LCA pin nut. The OEM bushings last a long time if you follow the ride height measurement before tightening. After this is done you can raise or lower the car. You will not over travel the bushing in either direction and rip the rubber . The manual gives these instructions for ride height. I may have missed something but I am sure you get the general idea.

I get it I just have a later car that we're working on so I'd like the correct part

The early struts are will work and you will be happier with the K7040 bushings. If you look at your old bushings where the male slips through the K-member you will see that yours are wore like the one pictured here . The K7040 bushings have a steel sleeve that holds them center in the K-member. Second pic. Your 73 style do not and for the street they keep everything equal. Your car probably came with Bias E78x14 tires . Are you keeping them on as well. Think about it. Its an upgrade. just like your Radial tires. The fine thread strut rods fit right on and everyone has them laying around. The coarse thread style are for grandmas car.

Naplm00 said:

I get it I just have a later car that we're working on so I'd like the correct part

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Then go to NAPA and order them for a 75. If you order them for a 73 you may get 67-72 one piece set. 73-76 are the same But when ordering for a 73 the 72 PN comes up. I do not have the PN in my head or written down. I just order the part . When they are delivered today I'll have the PN and post it.

@Oldmanmopar I sent you a PM

Oldmanmopar said:

Then go to NAPA and order them for a 75. If you order them for a 73 you may get 67-72 one piece set. 73-76 are the same But when ordering for a 73 the 72 PN comes up. I do not have the PN in my head or written down. I just order the part . When they are delivered today I'll have the PN and post it.

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Thanks for the help , I'll wait until you post it