[Found!] Gas Gauge for '63/'64 Dart

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Jim Kueneman

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Looking for a gas gauge for my Dart. My face plate is nice so a faded one is fine, I need to pull it apart to install the electronic regulator anyway. I am willing to work with you on one that is of unknown operation. I can test it and if it is good we can come to a better deal if you want.

Thanks,
Jim
 
You dont need to open the fuel gauge to add on a outboard solid state voltage regulator. Simply put a piece of electric tape on the back of it to isolate the gauge can and original limiter from ground. The 5 volts from the regulator back feeding into that limiter will not have a path to a fault, is of no consequence.
Take the switched 12 volt wire away from the gauge and route it directly to the added regulator. Mount that added regulator anywhere you want. It doesn't have to be on the back of the inst' panel. There isn't a good spot for it anyway. Hope this helps.
 
You dont need to open the fuel gauge to add on a outboard solid state voltage regulator. Simply put a piece of electric tape on the back of it to isolate the gauge can and original limiter from ground. The 5 volts from the regulator back feeding into that limiter will not have a path to a fault, is of no consequence.
Take the switched 12 volt wire away from the gauge and route it directly to the added regulator. Mount that added regulator anywhere you want. It doesn't have to be on the back of the inst' panel. There isn't a good spot for it anyway. Hope this helps.

Thanks that will work too. My problem is the nichrome wire on the gauge bimetaliic strip has lost in insulation so it shorts out so I need a new gauge to start with (worse case is I buy a roll of insulated nichrome and try to rewind mine)
 
Thanks that will work too. My problem is the nichrome wire on the gauge bimetaliic strip has lost in insulation so it shorts out so I need a new gauge to start with (worse case is I buy a roll of insulated nichrome and try to rewind mine)
OK... The bimetal beam should be arrow straight. If it has a bow at room temperature it has been overheated. You can straighten it by hand but it may not respond properly to temperature change.
They aren't all the same. In the most common type, Approx' 13.5 inches of wire required. It's 1.5 ohms per inch at 68 degrees so gauge total is somewhere between 20 and 21 ohms at 68 degrees. Approx' 17 inches of 1.25 ohm per inch wire will fit in there. 20.5 inches of 1 ohm per inch wire will not.
Solder doesn't stick to nichrome so the wire is/was welded to the stud. The wire work hardens at the weld and would break so a dollop of cement like material is added to keep the wires movement above the weld. Find the wire. Figure out how to attach it to the studs. Just ship it to a gauge service. Good luck
 
OK... The bimetal beam should be arrow straight. If it has a bow at room temperature it has been overheated. You can straighten it by hand but it may not respond properly to temperature change.
They aren't all the same. In the most common type, Approx' 13.5 inches of wire required. It's 1.5 ohms per inch at 68 degrees so gauge total is somewhere between 20 and 21 ohms at 68 degrees. Approx' 17 inches of 1.25 ohm per inch wire will fit in there. 20.5 inches of 1 ohm per inch wire will not.
Solder doesn't stick to nichrome so the wire is/was welded to the stud. The wire work hardens at the weld and would break so a dollop of cement like material is added to keep the wires movement above the weld. Find the wire. Figure out how to attach it to the studs. Just ship it to a gauge service. Good luck

yup have already deduced all that from the original! Have you ever thought of using silver conductive epoxy to connect the nichrome?
 
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