318 LA rebuild after losing a valve seat
Getting close to the end. Gonna prime it one more time before installing the fan and radiator, then charge the battery and add fluids.
View attachment 1715571114 Is it weird that I’m getting nervous the closer I get to being ready to start it?
For some reason it is hard to get all of the air out of the 318 block, heads, intake manifold and heater core and get it completely full of coolant before first start up.
With the radiator full and and as much coolant as you can get in it. I would loosen up the temp gauge sender unit in the front of the intake manifold and use that port as an air bleed for the top half of the engine before the thermostat has had a chance to open. Get some rags handy and loosen up that sender till the fluid starts coming out, then tighten it up again.
People have raised the front of the car way up, squeezed upper and lower radiator hoses, rev the engine, all not much help.
Think like at least 3 gallons of coolant to start with. May want to fill with coolant, let sit over night, top off again in the morning.
Keep in mind you want it full of coolant so you can keep it running to break in the cam properly at first start.
A short run of the engine at 2,000 rpm is supposed to pump the heater core full with the heat control valve at Full On.
Keep an eye on your coolant and keep it above the cores in the radiator, don't open radiator cap when engine is up to temp or it could burn you badly. One of those infra red heat tester guns is handy to have close by to check for hot spots.
Like I say for some reason the 318s are hard to burp all the air out of them, other engines just warm them up so the thermostat opens and top them off.
@318willrun knows about this too.
Crazy, but want you to be careful with your brand new engine . . don't want to overheat the heads right out of the gate.
