Proform 850 dialing it in closer
- Thread starter Cudafever
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And all of these were taken with the engine off?
Sweet, good luck Man and let us know what you find!
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I use something like this:
12V Car Battery Monitor via bluetooth APP Voltage Meter Tester w/ auto Alarm
If your battery and charging system are not up to the task then fix that as that will affect your tune.
My tune,....is that the o2 goes to Sleep/freezes up. this is the problem i'm fighting and can't "tune until i give up on the LM2 or fix it.
cuda will set all winter and start right up the first time i try in the spring.
still no answers
started and let idle manually activated each one, on and off no affect.
held eng at 6000 rpm and turn on and off, no affect.
The cooling fan was the only one that would spike when turning on. some time it would flash around 1800 mV and some time it would show an open for that split second, AC mV never got above 30.5 mV held around at anytime during test from idle to 6000 rpm.
These test were all done in park(no G force) will have to sneak it out on the road to test that again.............but i haven't found or fix anything so i bet it will still freeze up.
How ever it did not freeze up at anytime during this test.................
Tomorrow will be my last test. then if i'm luck and all goes well with the move on the 20th i may be able to sneak off to the race on the 22th. finger crossed.
I never disabled the alt because there was just not any problems between idle and 6000 rpm.
and as i said the o2 did NOT freeze up on me.
started and let idle manually activated each one, on and off no affect.
held eng at 6000 rpm and turn on and off, no affect.
The cooling fan was the only one that would spike when turning on. some time it would flash around 1800 mV and some time it would show an open for that split second, AC mV never got above 30.5 mV held around at anytime during test from idle to 6000 rpm.
These test were all done in park(no G force) will have to sneak it out on the road to test that again.............but i haven't found or fix anything so i bet it will still freeze up.
How ever it did not freeze up at anytime during this test.................
Tomorrow will be my last test. then if i'm luck and all goes well with the move on the 20th i may be able to sneak off to the race on the 22th. finger crossed.
I never disabled the alt because there was just not any problems between idle and 6000 rpm.
and as i said the o2 did NOT freeze up on me.
Great job on the detailed checkout, doesn't look like power is your issue. Unless a wire is rubbing or you have an O2 sensor that's wonky it looks like you have a bad gauge setup.
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Do you have an alternator on the car and what voltage are you seeing it charge the battery at? Contrary to popular belief you can tune an engine without O2's
I have the factory gauge in the car. Haven't put a volt meter on it to know.
Yes i realize that and have done a lot of tuning with a timing light, 60 foot and mile per hour.
However, you can't watch it go lean or rich as it pull thru the rpm range with just plug readings.
Playing with air bleed is were an o2 can shine.........If it works.......
I have replace several several o2 sensor just to make sure, and have killed a few as well(leaded race fuel)
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Is that a yes on the alternator?
I agree.
Which air bleeds do you want to tune?
Do you run an electric pump?
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Do you have an alternator on the car?
Yes factory alternator, with a smaller pulley on it so it charges at idle.
What i do at the race track, Because my cooling fan and elec water pump run "anytime"(ign on or off) i hook my 10 amp battery charger up after every run. Battery is full charge before each run. unless i make it to semi's. then there just isn't enough time to get the full charge, before i restart the car.
I use to have my alternator set up so that at full throttle, it would remove the ground from the alternator (regulator) It worked just fine.....But i found that the car ran just a little more consistent if the alternator was running all the time.(electric fans draw a lot of amps)
What i do at the race track, Because my cooling fan and elec water pump run "anytime"(ign on or off) i hook my 10 amp battery charger up after every run. Battery is full charge before each run. unless i make it to semi's. then there just isn't enough time to get the full charge, before i restart the car.
I use to have my alternator set up so that at full throttle, it would remove the ground from the alternator (regulator) It worked just fine.....But i found that the car ran just a little more consistent if the alternator was running all the time.(electric fans draw a lot of amps)
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Can you post screen shots?
Should be some clue as to whether this is electric noise or EMI or internal.
Here's a log of mine with problems. This was with an LM1 and Auxbox.
But we can see several issues, and maybe a smarter person about these things could have narrowed down the cause.
Notice the rpm has blips all along.
All of the channels have visible noise except the MAP (Vacuum). That's interesting! That's the only one with no wires into the engine bay.
That's an old log - nothingfor us to spend time on here.
My only point is that your log may have clues.
I would like to think that channel that supplies 5 V to the sensors will have filtered out electric noise.
But I don't know if the power controller for the WBO2 sensor does anything that might result in filtering.
But my understanding of radio noise (EMI) would be picked up by any unshielded wiring - at least in the higher frequencies. Again this is not an area I know much about.
Should be some clue as to whether this is electric noise or EMI or internal.
Here's a log of mine with problems. This was with an LM1 and Auxbox.
But we can see several issues, and maybe a smarter person about these things could have narrowed down the cause.
Notice the rpm has blips all along.
All of the channels have visible noise except the MAP (Vacuum). That's interesting! That's the only one with no wires into the engine bay.
That's an old log - nothingfor us to spend time on here.
My only point is that your log may have clues.
I would like to think that channel that supplies 5 V to the sensors will have filtered out electric noise.
But I don't know if the power controller for the WBO2 sensor does anything that might result in filtering.
But my understanding of radio noise (EMI) would be picked up by any unshielded wiring - at least in the higher frequencies. Again this is not an area I know much about.
So purple is o2
Black is rpm
red tps
Tps is not calibrated so it goes below 0 at idle
2nt one is the same one, only expanded to see it better.
the flat line at the top is because it is reading more then 20% oxygen.(o2 sensor several inch away from the opening of the collector). aka open exhaust.
the last on is still the same one only showing that when it quits it flat line until i turned off the recording.
So tell me what you see............................
Black is rpm
red tps
Tps is not calibrated so it goes below 0 at idle
2nt one is the same one, only expanded to see it better.
the flat line at the top is because it is reading more then 20% oxygen.(o2 sensor several inch away from the opening of the collector). aka open exhaust.
the last on is still the same one only showing that when it quits it flat line until i turned off the recording.
So tell me what you see............................
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If the RPM function is set up correctly it will tell you exactly where it stalls. On your last log it shows the rpm trace start @ 0 when i would imagine you are idling or on the transbrake at the lights.
On a related note check every connection on the car as I just found what was causing all my fuel pump pressure issues. It turned out to be a loose earth at the relay just touching so it would work normally most of the time but would always come apart during a run and turn the pump off and on. You might have a high resistive join some where causing your problems.
On a related note check every connection on the car as I just found what was causing all my fuel pump pressure issues. It turned out to be a loose earth at the relay just touching so it would work normally most of the time but would always come apart during a run and turn the pump off and on. You might have a high resistive join some where causing your problems.
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I just got threw making better power connections for my fuel pump, water pump. Relay ground is not something i have look closely at..........
The rpm will go to 0 sometimes. I have a 10 turn potentiometer that i had to install to adj that. (See post 121)I can play with that and get it right.........But, it will do nothing for the o2 reading.
If i can't get the 02 to work then all the rest of the date is worthless.
Yes i know i need to set the tps but that cheese tps bracket keeps moving. another problem to fix just don't matter if the o2 don't work.
It's Getting Worse! it use to work all day long idle(as in o2 not locking up) them graphs above was idling around the block.
Does anybody see some radio noise in the graph above.
The rpm will go to 0 sometimes. I have a 10 turn potentiometer that i had to install to adj that. (See post 121)I can play with that and get it right.........But, it will do nothing for the o2 reading.
If i can't get the 02 to work then all the rest of the date is worthless.
Yes i know i need to set the tps but that cheese tps bracket keeps moving. another problem to fix just don't matter if the o2 don't work.
It's Getting Worse! it use to work all day long idle(as in o2 not locking up) them graphs above was idling around the block.
Does anybody see some radio noise in the graph above.
Got my flow bench adapter back and installed on my bench.
Calibrated earlier
No need for these water gauges any more
This is sooooo much simpler. and it will record all the data so you don't have to right it down!
Flow adapter and my favorite Epoxy port 360 head on.
flow number were with in a couple of numbers
Meaning that my old data will be comparable with my new bench and electronic gauges.
Sad part is that i got to play with it for sever hours and verify every thing works.
But now i have to pack it up with all the rest that going to my new house.
Had to get this much done now, because my new house don't have any 220 power in the garage.
BUT MY SHOP WILL!!!!!!
May be a while before that.
It was fun getting to play with it for a while. All i wanted to DO!!! Was get my die grinder out...........because i know exactly were i would grind
Focus focus!
Must Clean out the Garage and finish packing the House
Maybe i will make one more run after i clean up the port. Heads have been setting for years. Shhh don't tell wife........maybe she will just think i'm vacuuming out the truck......................
.
Calibrated earlier
No need for these water gauges any more
This is sooooo much simpler. and it will record all the data so you don't have to right it down!
Flow adapter and my favorite Epoxy port 360 head on.
flow number were with in a couple of numbers
Meaning that my old data will be comparable with my new bench and electronic gauges.
Sad part is that i got to play with it for sever hours and verify every thing works.
But now i have to pack it up with all the rest that going to my new house.
Had to get this much done now, because my new house don't have any 220 power in the garage.
BUT MY SHOP WILL!!!!!!
May be a while before that.
It was fun getting to play with it for a while. All i wanted to DO!!! Was get my die grinder out...........because i know exactly were i would grind
Focus focus!
Must Clean out the Garage and finish packing the HouseMaybe i will make one more run after i clean up the port. Heads have been setting for years.
Shhh don't tell wife........maybe she will just think i'm vacuuming out the truck.......................
PRH
Well-Known Member
How thick is that radius plate?
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