Owen Diaz
Well-Known Member
It also looks like the headers was starting to burn my spark plug wires a bit any help I can get with this would be very much appreciated
Issues with a recently rebuilt 360
- Thread starter Owen Diaz
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It also looks like the headers was starting to burn my spark plug wires a bit any help I can get with this would be very much appreciated
Owen Diaz
Well-Known Member
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
- Joined
- Jan 19, 2014
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Put a vacuum gauge on the dipstick, pop the PCV out of the valve cover, and seal both valve covers. Start her up and let her idle.
Make sure there is NO vacuum in the CC which would indicate a leaking intake manifold gasket in the valley. And she's sucking in oil with the air.
If the CC is properly sealed, the gauge should immediately begin to show pressure. Do not let the pressure exceed 3 psi, as it tends to blow out somewhere, occasionally the rear cam plug.... which really sucks.
I ran that 292 for a few months; she's pretty rowdy.
She likes a lot of bypass air.Your primary throttle valves may be up the transfers too far, and so the mains may be dribbling.
The cure for that, is to set the transfer port exposure underneath the primaries to a little taller than wide, crank the initial timing to 18/20 degrees and then start working on giving the engine the bypass air it so desperately wants. Then you can back off the initial timing to a more sane level.
After you get the idle timing set, you HAVE to revisit the power-timing.
As to bypass air;
If you have a carb with a 4-corner idle, you can bring in the air(and fuel) thru secondary cracking. But dry air in the back did not work for me. So;
If no 4-corner, then;
I run a PCV, and my 11/1- 367 needed one hole in each primary butterfly, about 3/32, for 14* idle timing, and a 750rpm idle. Yours may vary so sneak up on it.
I put the holes on the front half, near the transfers but about 1/4 inch back from the leading edge. I chamferred the upper opening and just broke off the burrs on the underside. Try not to go too big but if you do, don't panic. You can fill the holes with solder, move over, and start again. That's what I did and the solder has stayed in there since yr 2000, over 100,000 miles ago.
If you have power brakes;
do not power them up from an individual runner, you must plumb to the plenum, or to the port on the back of the carb that is designed for that. A single runner will not evacuate the booster at idle and whatever cylinder you hook it too will run lean every time you use the brakes. And I could not get the dual-diaphragm to work at low vacuum levels. I used a big single off a mid 70s Dart. Make sure your check-valve works.
If you have adjustable rockers;
I run my preload down at 1 turn or less, on HD Hughes lifters. This is to prevent lifter pump up if it was too happen that my springs give up at 7200. So far so good.
The black on your wires looks like soot; is that particular port leaking? You need to fix that before it burns the gasket out. If the header sucks air there, yo will get afterfire in the pipes
Make sure there is NO vacuum in the CC which would indicate a leaking intake manifold gasket in the valley. And she's sucking in oil with the air.
If the CC is properly sealed, the gauge should immediately begin to show pressure. Do not let the pressure exceed 3 psi, as it tends to blow out somewhere, occasionally the rear cam plug.... which really sucks.
I ran that 292 for a few months; she's pretty rowdy.
She likes a lot of bypass air.Your primary throttle valves may be up the transfers too far, and so the mains may be dribbling.
The cure for that, is to set the transfer port exposure underneath the primaries to a little taller than wide, crank the initial timing to 18/20 degrees and then start working on giving the engine the bypass air it so desperately wants. Then you can back off the initial timing to a more sane level.
After you get the idle timing set, you HAVE to revisit the power-timing.
As to bypass air;
If you have a carb with a 4-corner idle, you can bring in the air(and fuel) thru secondary cracking. But dry air in the back did not work for me. So;
If no 4-corner, then;
I run a PCV, and my 11/1- 367 needed one hole in each primary butterfly, about 3/32, for 14* idle timing, and a 750rpm idle. Yours may vary so sneak up on it.
I put the holes on the front half, near the transfers but about 1/4 inch back from the leading edge. I chamferred the upper opening and just broke off the burrs on the underside. Try not to go too big but if you do, don't panic. You can fill the holes with solder, move over, and start again. That's what I did and the solder has stayed in there since yr 2000, over 100,000 miles ago.
If you have power brakes;
do not power them up from an individual runner, you must plumb to the plenum, or to the port on the back of the carb that is designed for that. A single runner will not evacuate the booster at idle and whatever cylinder you hook it too will run lean every time you use the brakes. And I could not get the dual-diaphragm to work at low vacuum levels. I used a big single off a mid 70s Dart. Make sure your check-valve works.
If you have adjustable rockers;
I run my preload down at 1 turn or less, on HD Hughes lifters. This is to prevent lifter pump up if it was too happen that my springs give up at 7200. So far so good.
The black on your wires looks like soot; is that particular port leaking? You need to fix that before it burns the gasket out. If the header sucks air there, yo will get afterfire in the pipes
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