Piston question
I'm not try to get quench. 9.5-10 Is fine for me I'm not building a race car
I think you have the wrong idea about Quench. Every engine benefits from a tight-Q design..... especially a street engine.
Your engine will be; not might be, will be; more fuel-efficient, more responsive, happier, and be able to run at a higher pressure or on a lower octane fuel.
If you take advantage of it, your engine should make more power at smaller throttle openings, with less ignition timing, and less propensity towards detonation, at what some would call hi-compression.
If you don't take advantage of it;
You will have to reduce your cylinder pressure, likely at least 5psi, and increase your Q to more than ~.080 to stay out of detonation at full timing.
At or near 800ft, a 10/1 Scr with iron heads is already iffy, it will take a pretty good sized cam to drop the pressure into the zone for best pump gas.....
But I'm sure your machinist would have mentioned all this, and you probably just forgot.... in which case, sorry I brought it up.
Look; I really am a nice guy, and I really wish you all the best success.
BTW
In my 367, I run the KB107s loose, with large top gaps, like RRR, and others say using the nitrous/towing spec. I had to take my engine apart to make it so, because it would lock-up on me every time I shut it off. I installed Plasma-moly file-fit rings, custom fit ,in as near to perfectly round bores as it gets, and the result was a freshly installed LD rate almost immeasurable. And I was able to increase my minimum coolant temp from 180 to 205. Lemmee tell ya, that engine pulls real nice. The only successful run of four tries, it went 93 and change, in the Eighth, at 3457 pounds, 930ft elevation,with 3.55s and BFG Drag-Radials. The sixty foot was over 2.4 seconds, so you know the track was crap... or my suspension was,lol, but she still did the deed in 7.92 seconds, spinning most of the way. And it did it all with a
[email protected] cam, a manual trans, and Q=.034.
