Oil pump/intermediate drive shaft Bushing install

-

cawcislo

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 7, 2018
Messages
404
Reaction score
305
Location
Ontario, Canada
Do you need to burnish aftermarket intermediate/oil pump drive shaft bushings? I have a new Dura-bond AD-584 part number bushing to install. Thanks.
 
Even the bushings that are said to be the correct sized when installed are too tight.

Not sure what the factory tolerance was on that hole diameter but every single bushing I’ve used was tight and needed to be burnished.

I suspect the hole in the block are on the small side and that extra press fit makes the bushing too tight.
 
I have read that the aftermarket bushing do not need to be burnished....just bought a box of ten from pioneer.
 
Any difference in quality between the Mopar installer and the Proform pieces?
 
The Pioneer's I bought didn't have the oil groove in the top
 
So when you push the new brass bushing into the block it will squeeze it and reduce the clearance for the oil pump drive shaft? So the burnishing tool opens the clearance back up?
 
I use the Proform installer. It seams to be a nice tool. The steel seams to be good and hard, so I don't think it will wear out with the limited use I put it through. Definitely does a good job burnishing that bushing when I draw it back out.

I use a Magnum truck engine mount bolt to remove the old one. It threads right in and has a large flange, perfect for using two pry bars to ease that old bushing out without damaging anything. Then shove the new bushing on the Proform tool, drive it home with a hammer, and use wrenches to draw the tool back out.
 
Do you need to burnish aftermarket intermediate/oil pump drive shaft bushings? I have a new Dura-bond AD-584 part number bushing to install. Thanks.
Don`t know for that particular part#, but you`ll find out when you press it in.
I bought a bush. from the local AZ, and it did`nt need sized. matter of fact, I deemed it too loose, pulled it out and ordered one that needed sized, being since I have the high$ tools to earn their keep.
 
It's helpful to understand what's going in when you install and burnish the bushing. Once you understand, you can then make your choice on how much you want to half-*** the job. Half-assing the job is a long standing and very popular tradition within the automotive world.

The bushing is made of Oilite, which is a bronze based material Chrysler developed and soon became a standard across many industries for bushed applications. It carries its own oil embedded in its pores. Compared to normal bronze bushings, it lubricates much better and is far less likely to 'skid' on the shaft or run dry.

When you install a new bushing, it is already a little tight and the 'squeeze' it gets when driven it only makes it tighter. Hence, the need to burnish...which is a fancy way of saying you are going to size the ID of the bushing by smushing it out to size. Oilite is fairly soft. Burnishing is important as Oilite does not cut as well as we'd like...if you're going to cut it, you need a nice sharp edge which most people won't have. What's more, Oilite really dislikes any sort of abrasive grinding/cutting....the abrasives will stick in the Oilite then go to work on the shaft once you start spinning it.

If you're installing a new bushing that doesn't require burnishing, you might have gotten lucky. Or, you might have installed a bushing that is too loose, or one that is 'good and tight' but does not have the contact area it should have...in other words, it's only making contact in a few places that will wear down soon enough and you end up with a loose fit. The burnishing ensures a good, proper contact fit.

When I was about 13, I installed a new bushing and the shaft wouldn't fit. I read about burnishers but I sure didn't have one or the money to buy one...so I spun the shaft in sandpaper for a long time in a drill until it fit. I would be embarrassed to admit that, but I was 13 and at least least little dumber than I am now. For me, doing the job right is a sign of personal growth....if I half-assed it today, I'd feel like I was just as dumb as a 13 year old.
 
Last edited:
Popped the old bushing out. Used an 11 mm 1/4” drive socket with a 1/4’ drive long extension and just tapped it out, came out quite easily. Used my old intermediate shaft to tap the new one in, went in pretty easily. Shaft spins easily in the new bushing, no binding. For the amount of miles this engine will see it should be good to go.
 
Last edited:
Do you need to burnish aftermarket intermediate/oil pump drive shaft bushings? I have a new Dura-bond AD-584 part number bushing to install. Thanks.

No, at least I've never had to. The DuraBonds in particular.
 
No, at least I've never had to. The DuraBonds in particular.
Thanks for the info Rusty. This was one of the parts I forgot to get for my kids 318 rebuild. Will be ordering up a durabond bushing. Going to make an old distributor and intermediate shaft into an oil priming tool, and use the shaft as a bushing installer too.
 
Going to take an old intermediate shaft to work, and cut the teeth off it on the lathe so it can be used as a bushing installer, and a pump priming shaft.
 
OI'm reusing the old bushing iny race motor. Not many laps on it and the block was not hot tanked just washed with the bushing still installed.
 
This has been my experience with the B/block bushings.
When MP released the 'performance' chrome moly int shaft, I bought one for my 440.
After not many miles, there was significant wear on the shaft from the bronze bush. That was because the CM steel is hard, but not 'hardened'. The original factory piece was really hard, like tool steel & works well with bronze bush.
I use a softer alum bush with aftermarket int shafts; they do not wear the steel & last ok.
Í see a similar situation with auto trans. The c'ter neck & yoke are made of hard steel, but not of the hardness of the shafts etc. So they use an alum faced bush, not bronze.
 
-
Back
Top