Heim joints bud, they're called heims. And yours work the same way that every other heim ever made does. Which is to say that the aftermarket adjustable strut rods work the same exact way as yours do (without the K member butchery).
And of course, more pictures of that butchered K member that has never seen a single mile on the track or the street. But I'm sure it's the best one ever made. When you extended those strut rods and relocated the pivot point forward of the K you did check to make sure the resulting larger arc of the strut rod at the K frame would actually clear the K frame itself right? And of course a single pass weld on one side with no reinforcement is strong enough to support the strut rod, even with a larger hole cut out in the K.
Yeah, so he's the guy we should actually be talking to. It is interesting that it's the Moog numbers and not a Napa # on those invoices.
Again, congrats on getting them, somewhere there's a Napa warehouse with some remaining Moog stock. But you can't currently get the K7068's even from Moog themselves (you can order direct from Moog too!), so, whatever you're getting is leftover stock. Hopefully it wasn't recall stuff, that's probably why the new stuff is currently on hold.
Man I hate to break it to you, but OMM doesn't do logic. He frequently contradicts himself on the adjustable strut rods, of course he made his own but everyone else's are trash. And he's recommended the late model strut rods before too, but since I mentioned that I have a set he says they're junk in this thread. He's even said recently that poly bushings at the UCA are fine.
new front end parts Which is funny, because the OE rubber UCA bushings are constructed just like the OE LCA bushings with friction fit rubber. Poly UCA bushings need to be lubricated just like poly LCA bushings, they spin on their pivots just like the poly LCA bushings do.
What's that now? Seems like you can both see them and get to them just fine. I mean, you'd know that if you'd ever installed them. Sure they aren't the easiest thing to get at to add grease, but they're definitely not the hardest thing to grease on these cars. And then there's the fact that without a boot you don't want to actually add grease, as it will cause dirt to stick to the heim and cause premature wear. The dry-lube you'd want to use on an exposed heim is usually in an aerosol can with a little spray tube for the nozzle, so, that's super easy to do. Again, I would think you'd know this.
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I've tried that argument, it doesn't work. I'm not sure what OMM thinks the strut rods are there for, but keeping the LCA from moving back and forth isn't it. I'm serious, he doesn't think the purpose of the strut rod is to locate the end of the LCA. Which is why he always talks about how he shows customers with poly LCA bushings that their LCA's can fall off. You know, after he disconnects the strut rods, breaks the LCA's loose from the spindles, removes the shocks, the torsion bars, the sway bar, etc. Because we all know that if we had a simultaneous strut rod, lower ball joint, torsion bar, sway bar and shock failure that the rubber in the original LCA bushing would hold the LCA on the car. Not that it would matter with the tire folded up in the wheel well after the spindle was detached from the LCA, but what the hell.
