Nitrous plumbing A1A...??..

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If lead came down I might have to take my belt off the AC LOL...
Also I would promise not to turn the nitrous on when I run him just so as he can see my tail lights not have to put on binoculars to see them fade in the distance LOL..
 
If lead came down I might have to take my belt off the AC LOL...
Also I would promise not to turn the nitrous on when I run him just so as he can see my tail lights not have to put on binoculars to see them fade in the distance LOL..


LOL...I’ll make sure he sees this.
 
Maybe 2021 will give you some track time.
I could have technically probably went to the local track. But only driver in one pit crew member. Everybody had to wear masks. Everybody had to have their temperature taken by a EMT going in the gate. It's more of the things that I like to do when everybody is going to the track and I have my friends there and we're just going to have fun...
 
How much cylinder psi would a 175 shot make ? the big block outer wall look awfully thin. My builder was pointing out the spots for me since I bought some power adder rods (molnar) just in case I wanted to go faster. But I don't know nitrous, how to do the timing retarding or want to try to find another 400 block. I'll leave it to the fuller wallet crowd.
I don't think nitrous adds any more pressure than x amount of boost from a blower or turbo...
Some people just retired their timing accordingly manually. And run and all in retarded timing. Me personally I opted for a timing retard mechanism that piggybacks to my MSD.. it was extremely easy to set up and just requires a low voltage signal. I have that signal hooked up to my activation button and the general rule of thumb is to turn down your timing 2 degrees for every 50 horsepower of nitrous...
 
I don't think nitrous adds any more pressure than x amount of boost from a blower or turbo...
Some people just retired their timing accordingly manually. And run and all in retarded timing. Me personally I opted for a timing retard mechanism that piggybacks to my MSD.. it was extremely easy to set up and just requires a low voltage signal. I have that signal hooked up to my activation button and the general rule of thumb is to turn down your timing 2 degrees for every 50 horsepower of nitrous...
You gotta try it NOW.
Then you gotta headstart for next year
50 ain't doin nothing. 75 good starting point.
And then might not notice much.
Nothing going to be noticed till after 3500rpm IMHO.
 
You gotta try it NOW.
Then you gotta headstart for next year
50 ain't doin nothing. 75 good starting point.
And then might not notice much.
Nothing going to be noticed till after 3500rpm IMHO.

No reason not to wait..... People do it everyday.... I haven't read through the thread but is there any type of a Nitrous controller is this conversation?

JW
 
I recently installed an nx gemini kit. Wired in an NOS mini 2 stage controller. When stage 1 is activated it engages the step retard on my msd digital 6 box....
Just playing with the controller and testing the ramp in is pretty darn cool.
 
You gotta try it NOW.
Then you gotta headstart for next year
50 ain't doin nothing. 75 good starting point.
And then might not notice much.
Nothing going to be noticed till after 3500rpm IMHO.
I have two 50 plates on which I estimate is a hundred shot
I have my windows switch starting at 3500 RPMs...
 
My system goes like this...
I have two Edelbrock cheater plates placed underneath each one of my 625 Street Demon carburetors.. The plates came with 50 75 and 100 Jets.. I started with 50 jets in each one.. the shorter fuel lines come out of the cheater plates from in between the carburetors to the fuel side of a fuel zex solenoid while the nitrous solenoid lines go to the front of the front cheater plate and the rear of the rear..
Starting with the nitrous bottle mounts behind the passenger seat. The nitrous bottle. Nitrous bottle heater blanket and the nitrous bottle blow down tube required when put inside the cab.. a line with a nitrous filter going to a tee that connects to the nitrous solenoid that goes into another solenoid that is The Purge system...
On fuel side.. (none of which comes in a "slap a kit in it" kit)...
A 1 gallon fuel cell (filled with 110 Sunoco) in the normal battery tray spot going into a fuel pump that goes into a low pressure switch that goes into a fuel filter that goes up to a tee that goes to the fuel side solenoid... The tee not only goes to a pressure gauge so pressure can be watched while the system is at idle and while it's activated it also goes back to a pressure regulator that runs back into the nitrous fuel tank...
Electrical.... both fuel and nitrous solenoids are hooked to a fused full battery power relay... The dash has three switches and a purge button... A shifter knob on my 4-speed has an activation button... The first witch turns on the fuel pump... The second switch is a low voltage activation switch that sends a low voltage to the button on the shifter. when the button on the shifter is depressed it sends low voltage to the timing retard and to the full throttle switch... If the carburetors are wide open the full throttle switch will send voltage to activate the nitrous solenoid low voltage wire... The ground wire on the nitrous solenoid first goes through the low pressure switch on the fuel supply line and then finally makes its way to the RPM window switch... Which right now is set from 35 to 5700 RPMs... My rev limiter set well past 6500... The third switch is to activate the heating blanket on the nitrous bottle...
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I don't think nitrous adds any more pressure than x amount of boost from a blower or turbo...
Some people just retired their timing accordingly manually. And run and all in retarded timing. Me personally I opted for a timing retard mechanism that piggybacks to my MSD.. it was extremely easy to set up and just requires a low voltage signal. I have that signal hooked up to my activation button and the general rule of thumb is to turn down your timing 2 degrees for every 50 horsepower of nitrous...
Thanks jpar, that makes sense
 
My system goes like this...
I have two Edelbrock cheater plates placed underneath each one of my 625 Street Demon carburetors.. The plates came with 50 75 and 100 Jets.. I started with 50 jets in each one.. the shorter fuel lines come out of the cheater plates from in between the carburetors to the fuel side of a fuel zex solenoid while the nitrous solenoid lines go to the front of the front cheater plate and the rear of the rear..
Starting with the nitrous bottle mounts behind the passenger seat. The nitrous bottle. Nitrous bottle heater blanket and the nitrous bottle blow down tube required when put inside the cab.. a line with a nitrous filter going to a tee that connects to the nitrous solenoid that goes into another solenoid that is The Purge system...
On fuel side.. (none of which comes in a "slap a kit in it" kit)...
A 1 gallon fuel cell (filled with 110 Sunoco) in the normal battery tray spot going into a fuel pump that goes into a low pressure switch that goes into a fuel filter that goes up to a tee that goes to the fuel side solenoid... The tee not only goes to a pressure gauge so pressure can be watched while the system is at idle and while it's activated it also goes back to a pressure regulator that runs back into the nitrous fuel tank...
Electrical.... both fuel and nitrous solenoids are hooked to a fused full battery power relay... The dash has three switches and a purge button... A shifter knob on my 4-speed has an activation button... The first witch turns on the fuel pump... The second switch is a low voltage activation switch that sends a low voltage to the button on the shifter. when the button on the shifter is depressed it sends low voltage to the timing retard and to the full throttle switch... If the carburetors are wide open the full throttle switch will send voltage to activate the nitrous solenoid low voltage wire... The ground wire on the nitrous solenoid first goes through the low pressure switch on the fuel supply line and then finally makes its way to the RPM window switch... Which right now is set from 35 to 5700 RPMs... My rev limiter set well past 6500... The third switch is to activate the heating blanket on the nitrous bottle...
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Along with everything in your photos, those seats are bad ***
 
Thanks jpar, that makes sense
The reason for less timing needed with nitrous or other forms of boost this because this makes the engine more efficient. I believe even more so with nitrous. Precise amounts of fuel and air can be brought into the combustion chamber in large volumes. The idea isn't to create more RPMs but just to create a better more efficient more explosive explosion..
Anyways in a perfect world the explosion would be a skippy bit after top dead center and propel the Piston down... But because our engines aren't that efficient in the explosion isn't that efficient it must be before top dead center to time for that explosion to happen... Nitrous and boost make that more efficient needing less timing...
 
Officially still have not hit the button! LOL..
If i was in your shoes and was building my first Nitrous system.........well i would have built it just like yours. With all the safety i could put in it.
Then, after all the testing you can do with out pushing the Nitrous threw the eng, i would close the bottle valve, purge the lines........ arm it!!! and go make a hit! If it slows down....all the fuel side is working as intended. Now you know the the worse scenario will be the one you just made......excessive fuel...............and if every thing works right.........a cheese smile on your face.:steering:
 
If i was in your shoes and was building my first Nitrous system.........well i would have built it just like yours. With all the safety i could put in it.
Then, after all the testing you can do with out pushing the Nitrous threw the eng, i would close the bottle valve, purge the lines........ arm it!!! and go make a hit! If it slows down....all the fuel side is working as intended. Now you know the the worse scenario will be the one you just made......excessive fuel...............and if every thing works right.........a cheese smile on your face.:steering:
I actually gave it a dry test with the carburetors off. On the fuel side I had to test and make sure I was getting the correct fuel pressure when the solenoid was open. So I turned the fuel pump on and turned the arming switch on had my wife push the button inside and watch the gauge well I activated the full throttle switch and watch the fuel. I just stuck a t-shirt down underneath the spray bar to catch the fuel from just going into the engine. I also had to jump the ground off the low pressure switch so I wasn't using the window switch. It activated perfectly. For the nitrous oxide I just disconnected the hoses from the plates and hit the button with the ground grounded and it shot out.. so I feel confident when it's time things will work as I expect them to.
Again I'm not a street racer and the car has way more than enough for driving on the street. This was all something I wanted to do to learn about nitrous. This of course after a couple calls to Mike thermos at nitrous supply.. and if anybody ever has any questions I would call nitrous supply and ask for Mike thermos.. very nice guy and easy to talk to... (Look him up)..
Again the track awaits the nitrous LOL..
 
As i said, once you have done every test beside pushing it threw the eng........
 
I actually gave it a dry test with the carburetors off. On the fuel side I had to test and make sure I was getting the correct fuel pressure when the solenoid was open. So I turned the fuel pump on and turned the arming switch on had my wife push the button inside and watch the gauge well I activated the full throttle switch and watch the fuel. I just stuck a t-shirt down underneath the spray bar to catch the fuel from just going into the engine. I also had to jump the ground off the low pressure switch so I wasn't using the window switch. It activated perfectly. For the nitrous oxide I just disconnected the hoses from the plates and hit the button with the ground grounded and it shot out.. so I feel confident when it's time things will work as I expect them to.
Again I'm not a street racer and the car has way more than enough for driving on the street. This was all something I wanted to do to learn about nitrous. This of course after a couple calls to Mike thermos at nitrous supply.. and if anybody ever has any questions I would call nitrous supply and ask for Mike thermos.. very nice guy and easy to talk to... (Look him up)..
Again the track awaits the nitrous LOL..
I have SRP sportsman 4032 alloy forged pistons vs 2618 alloy pistons.
Is there a safe ammount that can be run with the 4032 higher silicon pistons?
 
I have SRP sportsman 4032 alloy forged pistons vs 2618 alloy pistons.
Is there a safe ammount that can be run with the 4032 higher silicon pistons?
Any piston can survive nitrous.. it's more about ring gap and tune. Forged just take a little more (a lot more) abuse than a Hyper or cast piston.
 
I have SRP sportsman 4032 alloy forged pistons vs 2618 alloy pistons.
Is there a safe ammount that can be run with the 4032 higher silicon pistons?
Pretty much the consensus is anyting can take a hundred 50 shot.. once you start getting over that then ring gaps and piston selection start to become a little bit more necessary...
also I would think duration of how long you're holding the nitrous open as well. If you're just looking for a little second and third gear burst or are you looking to shoot it right off the line and hold it all the way down the track...
I personally don't have nitrous ring gaps and I do have forged pistons and all.
When I get to the track and take a few na passes like most I usually start settling down and getting used to the power. After that I was thinking of giving it some short bursts in 3rd gear and 4th gear.
Again my setup is much more for knowledge and learning then trying for a certain et or setting the world on fire..
Or my engine on fire for that matter LOL...
 
Pretty much the consensus is anyting can take a hundred 50 shot.. once you start getting over that then ring gaps and piston selection start to become a little bit more necessary...
also I would think duration of how long you're holding the nitrous open as well. If you're just looking for a little second and third gear burst or are you looking to shoot it right off the line and hold it all the way down the track...
I personally don't have nitrous ring gaps and I do have forged pistons and all.
When I get to the track and take a few na passes like most I usually start settling down and getting used to the power. After that I was thinking of giving it some short bursts in 3rd gear and 4th gear.
Again my setup is much more for knowledge and learning then trying for a certain et or setting the world on fire..
Or my engine on fire for that matter LOL...
I was thinking ill get my car done 1st
(That would be a good start) see where it ends up. I'm wanting to run 10.00's & with my combo it may be right there with what I have planned
But as of now I'm just trying to gain some knowledge & when I want to & can afford to go faster have a little smarts to do that.
 
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