‘72 Dart - Road Race Resto
The build itself is not a "back yard build", just the fact that Hotchkis built it means it wasn't. But I also think you're putting it on too much of a pedestal, you can absolutely obtain the Taxi's level of performance with a backyard build.
The K frame isn't what I would call "heavily modified". Firm Feel sells gusset kits for your K frame, or you can make your own. Really, all it amounts to is seam welding the K frame and adding half a dozen gussets. A couple to the steering box mount, a couple reinforcements to the LCA pin tubes and a skid plate. I do this to all of my K-frames myself. Originally I bought a gusset kit from Firm Feel (they're $85), but all the ones I've done since I make myself. It's not difficult.
The chassis is also not what I would call "heavily modified". The Hotchkis frame connectors are actually pretty simple to install, I installed a set on my Challenger. They were easier to install than the home made subframe connectors I made myself for my Duster, and A LOT easier to install than the US Cartool subframe connectors I installed on my '71 Dart Gt. Just subframe connectors and torque boxes make a big difference, and a hobbyist with a welder can install both pretty easily ( I have several times now). I have more than what the Taxi has on my Duster, and it's still not "heavily modified"- no cage, no crazy engineering.
The 5 speed is nice, but not necessary. And it's also a kit anyone can buy. I have a 6 speed T-56 magnum in my Duster, I did all the work myself and that's a much more involved installation. That was $6,620, the list is here My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head
The suspension is off the shelf Hotchkis TVS. There are quite a few members here that run that full system and have for years. While I wouldn't call it "cheap", it's very attainable. And more than that, you don't need everything in the TVS system. The Firm Feel steering box is only $425 if you have a core power steering box.
This is everything I have on my Duster for suspension. It's not the cheapest way to do it, although it's not the most expensive either (ie, complete Hotchkis TVS). And before you say "The TVS is only $2,333!" it doesn't include torsion bars, shocks, a steering box, lower ball joints, LCA's, a spring offset, Delrin LCA bushings, a pitman and idler, etc, otherwise known as over $2,200 worth of stuff.
Front:
Front suspension: 3,325
Rear suspension total: 865
Total: $4,190
And a lot of that stuff isn't absolutely necessary. You can box the stock LCA's and that will work great and cost a lot less than the QA1 LCA's. PST sells a 16:1 manual steering box now for $300. You can buy non-adjustable QA1 UCA's for $350 and they come with ball joints, so that saves $195. You can use shackles instead of leaf spring sliders, the Taxi does. You get the idea.
You can go crazy on brakes, but I have 13" front and 11.7" rear disks from DoctorDiff that set me back about $1,800.
For chassis stiffening I have subframe connectors, torque boxes, "J" bars (firewall/cowl to front frame rails) and a tubular radiator support in addition to the reinforced K frame.
So, what I'm saying is that depending on your capabilities, you can build a car that will perform just as well as the Taxi and have less than $20k in parts into it if you did it right. I'm probably a bit over $20k into my car at this point, but honestly I've put some stuff in there that the Taxi doesn't have. My full build thread starts here- My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head
The build itself is not a "back yard build", just the fact that Hotchkis built it means it wasn't. But I also think you're putting it on too much of a pedestal, you can absolutely obtain the Taxi's level of performance with a backyard build.
The K frame isn't what I would call "heavily modified". Firm Feel sells gusset kits for your K frame, or you can make your own. Really, all it amounts to is seam welding the K frame and adding half a dozen gussets. A couple to the steering box mount, a couple reinforcements to the LCA pin tubes and a skid plate. I do this to all of my K-frames myself. Originally I bought a gusset kit from Firm Feel (they're $85), but all the ones I've done since I make myself. It's not difficult.
The chassis is also not what I would call "heavily modified". The Hotchkis frame connectors are actually pretty simple to install, I installed a set on my Challenger. They were easier to install than the home made subframe connectors I made myself for my Duster, and A LOT easier to install than the US Cartool subframe connectors I installed on my '71 Dart Gt. Just subframe connectors and torque boxes make a big difference, and a hobbyist with a welder can install both pretty easily ( I have several times now). I have more than what the Taxi has on my Duster, and it's still not "heavily modified"- no cage, no crazy engineering.
The 5 speed is nice, but not necessary. And it's also a kit anyone can buy. I have a 6 speed T-56 magnum in my Duster, I did all the work myself and that's a much more involved installation. That was $6,620, the list is here My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head
The suspension is off the shelf Hotchkis TVS. There are quite a few members here that run that full system and have for years. While I wouldn't call it "cheap", it's very attainable. And more than that, you don't need everything in the TVS system. The Firm Feel steering box is only $425 if you have a core power steering box.
This is everything I have on my Duster for suspension. It's not the cheapest way to do it, although it's not the most expensive either (ie, complete Hotchkis TVS). And before you say "The TVS is only $2,333!" it doesn't include torsion bars, shocks, a steering box, lower ball joints, LCA's, a spring offset, Delrin LCA bushings, a pitman and idler, etc, otherwise known as over $2,200 worth of stuff.
Front:
- 1.12" torsion bars from Firm Feel: $355
- Bergman Autocraft SPC UCA's:$395
- Bergman Autocraft Delrin LCA bushings: $80
- Firm Feel greaseable LCA pins: $135
- Howe Racing upper ball joints: $130
- Proforged lower ball joints:$80
- QA1 LCA's: $395
- Hotchkis Shocks: $475
- Hellwig 55905 front bar: $175
- Flaming River 16:1 steering box: $610
- QA1 tie rod sleeves: $50
- Proforged tie rods (all): $65
- Moog pitman and idler arms: $80
- Adjustable PST strut rods:$300
- Hellwig 6908 rear bar: $180 (this is the Ebody bar I run with my B-body rear axle)
- AFCO 20231M springs: $320
- AFCO leaf spring sliders: $200
- Dr. Diff 1/2" spring offset:$150
- Leaf spring perches: $15
Front suspension: 3,325
Rear suspension total: 865
Total: $4,190
And a lot of that stuff isn't absolutely necessary. You can box the stock LCA's and that will work great and cost a lot less than the QA1 LCA's. PST sells a 16:1 manual steering box now for $300. You can buy non-adjustable QA1 UCA's for $350 and they come with ball joints, so that saves $195. You can use shackles instead of leaf spring sliders, the Taxi does. You get the idea.
You can go crazy on brakes, but I have 13" front and 11.7" rear disks from DoctorDiff that set me back about $1,800.
For chassis stiffening I have subframe connectors, torque boxes, "J" bars (firewall/cowl to front frame rails) and a tubular radiator support in addition to the reinforced K frame.
So, what I'm saying is that depending on your capabilities, you can build a car that will perform just as well as the Taxi and have less than $20k in parts into it if you did it right. I'm probably a bit over $20k into my car at this point, but honestly I've put some stuff in there that the Taxi doesn't have. My full build thread starts here- My "new" '74 Duster- or why I need a project like a hole in the head
