Quarter and Sheet Panels Installation Advice

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Road Grabber

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I've been replacing sheet panels on a dart and will soon prepare to replace the quarter panels.

I was thinking on installing the truck floor first with trunk extensions,

keep the quarters on to replace the rear deck panel top line it up,

track and weld the rear tail light panel in place to the trunk floor and check trunk measurements,

and then locate the quarter panels temporally to locate the wheel wells and trunk extensions.

When I install the quarters, I was going to place the motor in the engine compartment and try to load up the suspension before permanently welding the full AMD quarters. Use the "All Metal" in place of the lead.

Maybe even place some weight on the trunk floor to simulate the weight of the bumpers.

Does this sound like a good plan or is it over kill? I would think the body will move once the full weight of the car is loaded on the suspension.

Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
 
You want to line everything up before fully welding anything in. Trunk extensions, wheelhouse, quarters need to be dry run for fit.
Keep in mind that most of the factory panels have alignment holes or notches to help get everything in the right place. AMD panels usually have these keys in them but cheaper panels usually dont. Even if they do, dont trust them 100 percent.
I dont recommend "all metal", use Evercoat Metal 2 Metal. Its a much better product.
As far as loading the vehicle, totally not necessary in my opinion. However, see what others might say on the subject.
 
I thought this was going to be a post about using sheet metal as front brake splash shield or rear drum?
 
When welding on quarters think of how the factory did it- no nothing in terms of weight. No engine- no interior just a jig. You need to make your own jig type set up.

If you preload you are shooting fish in a barrel. The quarters are part of the unibody structure. If you have the frame rails supported solid and level and the car is level then you have a good base to Install what ever part you need. I typically when doing quarter on a shell- 4 jack stands under rear frame rails and two up front. I shim them so the rails are level and tight to the car - use wood slices to get it tight. Jack stands move a lot and hard to get perfect since the dogs are typically 1” apart. Over the years I’ve done Lot of quarters. And no issues. Prep is 90% of the work.
 
I don't think it was mentioned but I would suggest having the intended lower rear valance in place - to tie together the two Q panels and orient and align the replacement side. I will be doing the same to my own '70 Swinger - but likely pay someone else to do it.
 
I remember when doing mine, the main thing we did was leveled the car on jack stands, then checked things twice. We fit the panel, and checked the fit , ajusted checked again etc. We used pop rivets to line the quarter up and top make sure it went back on at exactly the same place. We didnt "rivet the panel in place just drilled the rivet hole and stick the rivet in. Also used the vise grip panel clamps etc.
 
Thank you for all the replies. I would have responded sooner but I was going full tilt on the car. You all touched upon very good points. I will make sure I level everything. I have it on a good concrete floor and have the ability to check it over and over. No big rush but the colder weather is coming.

My plug welds else where have been showing some slight surface rust development. I plan on using epoxy primer but I was hoping someone had a suggestion for coating the welds until I do a larger scale spray.

Would anyone have suggestions for protecting the welds where I installed panels with a primer? Should I use just epoxy primer? Can I spray zinc primer and then spray epoxy over it?

I do have Premium Rust Encapsulator from Eastwood and two cans of 2K epoxy primer. I want to use the can of epoxy but once you begin you have to use the can within 24 hours? It's expensive so I don't want to waste it. I was hoping to cover the welds with something else until I cover with epoxy.

Maybe coat the welds with the encapsulator and the epoxy prime it?

Any suggestions? Think you all or the replies.
 
MoparMike1974 said:
You want to line everything up before fully welding anything in. Trunk extensions, wheelhouse, quarters need to be dry run for fit.
Keep in mind that most of the factory panels have alignment holes or notches to help get everything in the right place. AMD panels usually have these keys in them but cheaper panels usually dont. Even if they do, dont trust them 100 percent.
I dont recommend "all metal", use Evercoat Metal 2 Metal. Its a much better product.
As far as loading the vehicle, totally not necessary in my opinion. However, see what others might say on the subject.
Click to expand...


Thank you Mike. I will look into the product. How do you seal the overlap joints for especially the trunk area and rear deck panel?

I was even thinking about stitch welding the edge top prevent any water from getting in.

My main concern is that the factory had sealer in between the panels and now there is none. How do you deal with that? I know you can brush sealant in the joints like the floor but what about the factory sealing panel joints? Even the fenders had sealant between the installed inner fender wells.
 
I use ospho on bare metal before paint. It will stop any flash rust until you are ready for paint. It will rust if water gets on it and the acid from your hands. Before epoxy priming, sand it down good.
 
hwd2 said:
I don't think it was mentioned but I would suggest having the intended lower rear valance in place - to tie together the two Q panels and orient and align the replacement side. I will be doing the same to my own '70 Swinger - but likely pay someone else to do it.
Click to expand...

It is a tremendous amount of work removing and prep. What motivated me is the cost savings but I know it is a risk. I have done floors and quarter patches but this is a much bigger scale.
 
The trunk gutter? There is actually a trough right below the seam that you fill with seam sealer.
 
Try google.
Ospho Rust Treatment - Since 1947
Im not familiar with the eastwood product. If it is phosphoric acid its the same stuff. Lots of different brands, all do pretty much the same thing. Ospho has been around a long time. I first heard about it on Barges and Tugboats. Guy gave me a 5 gallon bucket of the stuff and I have been using it ever since.
 
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