Solid state regulator conversion confusion!

67Dart273 said

Please re-read my post. You must remove BOTH field wires from the alternator and check continuity from the field to ground. It should be OPEN. If this is so all you need do is hook up the new regulator.

One field terminal goes to VR via green

VR must be grounded
VR gets switched 12V
VR has the green connected to one field

Other alternator field terminal goes to switched 12V "ignition run"

The old system, the VR sent power TO the alternator field. More power to the field= more output
The new system controls the "ground" via the green wire. One field terminal gets 12V instead of ground (old) and the VR controls "the amount of ground" so to speak

Click to expand...

On the old alternator, if I unhook both ground and field wire, BOTH connectors have continuity to the alternator case. On the new alternator, neither spade connector has continuity to the case.

Is there supposed to be an insulating washer under both of the screws on the field wires on the old alternator? The new one has them on both. Currently, the left one (green field wire) has the insulating washer but is grounding to the case anyway, and the right one (black wire) has no insulating washer and is also grounding to the case. Should they be switched, or are both supposed to have the insulating washers?

The kinked wire is an additional 10gua path to the starter relay stud. I straightened it out.