Hey Cylinder heads guys- advice needed

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I don't see how the installed height can be a single value when the valve tips are not the same height, unless you used shims under the spring or?
Yes, shims under springs to achieve equal installed spring height to ensure correct pressures.

Did op mill his stands off, cause econos have stands.
Yes, the factory cast pedestals were milled off because one was a long-valve head and one was standard length valve head. The pedestals were two different heights.
 
I searched that casting number online and if I am reading it right, they could have come on either open or closed chamber. So it's still possible they could have been machined open. ......IF I am reading that information correctly.
Yep, same casting number but machined 4 different ways with 4 different part numbers. Open chamber, closed chamber, long valve, standard valve.
 
Yep, same casting number but machined 4 different ways with 4 different part numbers. Open chamber, closed chamber, long valve, standard valve.

Yeah like they were tryin to make it easy. lol
 
Yeah, I will be calling Mike Tuesday morning. I bought a kit from him for my last little project. Top notch.
A kit won't help in this situation, he doesn't have the cast-in stands to move the shaft off of with the kit.
He has individual block stands, like early max wedge, so he might need new, different stands with the shaft moved. I think b3re can help with that too.
I don't know what to do about the different valve heights.
 
Hahaha no ****. Like it would be too hard to change the casting number 1 digit for each. I think they just wanted to screw with poor suckers like me.
:soapbox:

Here's what I've always wondered. Why the HELL did they make a W2 for use with stock length valves? If you're runnin a W2 head, you're gonna be runnin a badass cam that requires badass sprAngs that will need longer valves. Never made any sense to me.
 
Here's what I've always wondered. Why the HELL did they make a W2 for use with stock length valves? If you're runnin a W2 head, you're gonna be runnin a badass cam that requires badass sprAngs that will need longer valves. Never made any sense to me.


Because some of the circle track stuff had rules about using stands verse the saddles, and for guys running under about .650ish lift, you didn’t need the long valves.
 
Because some of the circle track stuff had rules about using stands verse the saddles, and for guys running under about .650ish lift, you didn’t need the long valves.

That was my point. Who would strangle a W2 head running a small cam? Other than rules there was no reason for it. Seems like it was aimed at a very small niche group.
 
A kit won't help in this situation, he doesn't have the cast-in stands to move the shaft off of with the kit.
He has individual block stands, like early max wedge, so he might need new, different stands with the shaft moved. I think b3re can help with that too.
I don't know what to do about the different valve heights.
The trouble with moving the stands is that these blocks and shafts are drilled off-center to accommodate the long valves. If new blocks are made with different offset then the bolt holes will no longer line up with the holes in the shafts. I’ve already been down that road. It would be VERY costly to try and move the shafts any direction other than up or down.
 
I get your point! I made some 6061 stands for my early maxwedge heads, to replace the stock cast stands, but I copied the stock stand dimensions .
I wish I had the chance to do them over, with a geometry correction.
I also wish I could find them!
 
The trouble with moving the stands is that these blocks and shafts are drilled off-center to accommodate the long valves. If new blocks are made with different offset then the bolt holes will no longer line up with the holes in the shafts. I’ve already been down that road. It would be VERY costly to try and move the shafts any direction other than up or down.

Well, you gotta do something to get the geometry right. "WHAT" I don't know.
 
The trouble with moving the stands is that these blocks and shafts are drilled off-center to accommodate the long valves. If new blocks are made with different offset then the bolt holes will no longer line up with the holes in the shafts. I’ve already been down that road. It would be VERY costly to try and move the shafts any direction other than up or down.


Yeah, you can’t move the bolt hole much further than what Chrysler did. With that rocker system you are limited to about 2.100 installed height, and that’s pushing it.

Fortunately, you can now get springs that go in at 2.000 that are better than everything I used at 2.100 and it’s easier to get the geometry in shape at 2.000 than at 2.100.
 
The finish is diff on the small side,you can see tool marking.
Better pics of chambers. Both show rough casting that has been rubbed on at some point. Notice the additional coolant holes in the near head.

48A9DC42-8436-4DAC-AACC-9014005B9DAC.jpeg


860AE5BC-2EA6-498E-9E16-A2806A0ED6E0.jpeg


0F60A587-E3E1-4BB0-8C4C-531ADDE181BF.jpeg
 
Yes, shims under springs to achieve equal installed spring height to ensure correct pressures.


Yes, the factory cast pedestals were milled off because one was a long-valve head and one was standard length valve head. The pedestals were two different heights.
That's the root of issue.
Shrouding shows more on one head than the other, better cc them.
 
Is the poor contact of the ex rocker pretty equal between the two heads?

And the intake rocker seems okay on both heads?

Both heads have a similar discrepancy in tip heights between in/ex?
 
Is the poor contact of the ex rocker pretty equal between the two heads?
Yes
And the intake rocker seems okay on both heads?
Yes

Both heads have a similar discrepancy in tip heights between in/ex?
No. Head “A” varies between .034-.051” difference between intake and exhaust. Head “B” is not as bad, varies slightly from .015-.025”.

B5CA2937-5D74-4F85-9904-FCE5F6A60B9A.jpeg


62362161-1F51-40B2-B7F3-B17B2F968B5A.jpeg
 
I just discovered something that makes me very nervous......
Take a look at where the rocker shaft bolt holes are drilled in relation to the reinforcing ribs on the pads.....looks like head “A” is drilled centered on the ribs while head “B” is drilled offset to the intake face. I fear I may be f’d.

55999E60-3F4A-4A23-97BC-19CBB74E015E.jpeg


22648E28-34A3-409D-B9C8-4EB2C43A15B5.jpeg
 
I don't have these heads in front of me, but so far I don't see why you can't make some blocks that hold the rocker shafts where you want them. Even if that means a slightly different set of blocks for each head, with the stagger and height you need.

All that said...I've never been brave enough to buy heads in anything but a matched pair.
 
All that said...I've never been brave enough to buy heads in anything but a matched pair.
....and you shouldn’t because this is what happens.
I already have a ton of money wrapped up in these heads. I could have bought two pairs of Speedmasters already. Sad face.
 
I just discovered something that makes me very nervous......
Take a look at where the rocker shaft bolt holes are drilled in relation to the reinforcing ribs on the pads.....looks like head “A” is drilled centered on the ribs while head “B” is drilled offset to the intake face. I fear I may be f’d.

View attachment 1715591463

View attachment 1715591464


Core shift. Don’t sweat that.

I see zero top cut in the above pictures. The valve job isn’t done until the top cut is in as wide as it can be and the bowls are finished.

As long as the valves are the same length (effective length from the seat to the stem, not the OAL length) fixing the valve job SHOULD fix the stem height issues.

Unless of course they are not the same length or someone has stemmed the hell out of the intake valves.
 
....and you shouldn’t because this is what happens.
I already have a ton of money wrapped up in these heads. I could have bought two pairs of Speedmasters already. Sad face.


Sadly, 2 pair of speed master heads doesn’t equal 1 pair of W2’s. Find a better machine shop. One that knows how to do a valve job. That will cure most ills you have.
 
s long as the valves are the same length (effective length from the seat to the stem, not the OAL length) fixing the valve job SHOULD fix the stem height issues.
They are the same length. So you’re saying that touching up, or finishing, the valve job should even things out?

Unless of course they are not the same length or someone has stemmed the hell out of the intake valves.
Valves are brand new, just took them out of the package.
 
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