Vibrations...

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Moparbaker

Moparbaker

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I've changed wheels, u-joints & driveshaft but there's still vibrations...
Engine & gearbox are original together but engine have been out, could the flexplate &/or converter been mounted wrong even thou all bolts fitted good?
 
Have you looked to see if the damper slipped its rubber?

Where are you feeling the bad vibes? Steering wheel, floor boards, brakes on only?
 
Moparbaker said:
I've changed wheels, u-joints & driveshaft but there's still vibrations...
Engine & gearbox are original together but engine have been out, could the flexplate &/or converter been mounted wrong even thou all bolts fitted good?
Click to expand...
Did it vibrate before you took the engine out?
Have you checked the drive line angles?
 
Moparbaker said:
I've changed wheels, u-joints & driveshaft but there's still vibrations...
Engine & gearbox are original together but engine have been out, could the flexplate &/or converter been mounted wrong even thou all bolts fitted good?
Click to expand...

Just so you know, I have swapped the trans yoke 180 degrees on the driveshaft before and solved hard to find vibration issues.
 
TrailBeast said:
Just so you know, I have swapped the trans yoke 180 degrees on the driveshaft before and solved hard to find vibration issues.
Click to expand...
Did you re balance the shaft after you swapped the yoke around?
 
512Stroker said:
Did you re balance the shaft after you swapped the yoke around?
Click to expand...

Nope, it was just a test because I know a lot of people don’t think to orient the yoke the same as it was when changing U joints.
In my case it solved the shaft balance problem.
 
512Stroker said:
When you replaced the tranny mount did you notice that the new mount was taller?
Rubber or poly?
Click to expand...


Yep. Rubber.

Mount Old (2).jpg
Mount New (2).jpg
 
Forgot to write my mounts are good & I've done the driveshaft angles.

But what I wonder is (as I wrote) if the flexplate & converter could be off ballance even if the bolts fit?
 
Really need more info.
What year and size of engine? At what vehicle and engine speed does the vibration occur? Is it at all engine speeds?
Generally, cast crank engines need offset balanced flex plates, front damper, flywheel etc. Forged cranks are neutral balanced as are those mating parts.
 
-89 318 & A500 & the engine has been out & put back in again at some time. So does that mean it's a cast crank then?
I can drive for about 5-10 minits before it starts & it's in the whole car, it's a rumbeling shaking vibrationbut nothing in the steeringwheel or brakes, it rolls good when put in neutral & when it has started it continues...
 
^^^^^^^so it vibrates in park as well as in gear? No difference in high or low rpm?
Check flex plate for crack(s) comes to mind, though that usually had a metallic tap or clicking noise.
 
Last edited:
Nope, as I wrote it vibrates in neutral, didn't write "in park", its only when the car is rolling.
Must be in the gearbox then..? Cuz as long as the car stands still it don't vibrate & engine + converter runs smoooth as a breaze...
 
So sitting still it's fine. Only when the car is moving at speed there an issue?
The following comes to mind:
Something is up with the rear tires?
The driveshaft is bent?
Bad U-joint?
Bad right side motor mount?

Chock the front wheels and put the rear on jack stands, with the rear tires 2 inches off the ground. Leave the jack under the center of the rear just because. Run it through the gears and see what you get.
 
ragtopfury said:
So sitting still it's fine. Only when the car is moving at speed there an issue?
The following comes to mind:
Something is up with the rear tires?
The driveshaft is bent?
Bad U-joint?
Bad right side motor mount?

Chock the front wheels and put the rear on jack stands, with the rear tires 2 inches off the ground. Leave the jack under the center of the rear just because. Run it through the gears and see what you get.
Click to expand...
I would think the vibration would start immediately if it were u-joint/driveshaft. OP states the vibration takes 5-10 minutes of driving to start. That's the most odd part to me.
 
You say you changed wheels. Wheels and tires or just wheels? Tail shaft bushing, heats up and expands.
 
Seems not everone reads what I wrote earlier..?
Done this: anged the pinion good, replaced driveshaft, u-joints, new tires & balanced them, rubber mount & pro'ly something more I can't remember just now...
So I reckon it must be the gearbox, or..?
 
Moparbaker said:
Seems not everone reads what I wrote earlier..?
Done this: anged the pinion good, replaced driveshaft, u-joints, new tires & balanced them, rubber mount & pro'ly something more I can't remember just now...
So I reckon it must be the gearbox, or..?
Click to expand...
We all hear you loud and clear
Just alot of people spit balling answers, happens all the time on here.
Just because the tires and wheels are new does not always mean they are good.
Start over and do the simply things first.
Has it done this since you have had the car? Or did it start after changes were made?
 
I would try putting the rear on jack stands, as an earlier post said, and run it through the gears. If you're not careless you could also try doing that with the rear wheels off of the car as well just to verify. If you have front discs, you may as well check the brake rotors for flatness. I've also heard of water pump and alternator bearings going bad/warping the pulley shafts. So maybe try isolating the accessory drive as well...
 
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