Frozen Manifold Heat Control Valve
- Thread starter Duggie
- Start date
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Got to use the heat / wax trick on the emergency brake adjustment nut today. Pure magic! I felt like I was cheating.
Just got it back on the road and the exhaust flapper valve that was feeling so nice and free out of the vinegar bath is sticking at operating temperature. Seams to stick when the shaft is all the way one direction through the exhaust manifold. Haven't found an anti-rattle spring yet, but not hopeful that spring will help the hot sticking. I hate to wire it open while I chase a couple dozen other more important tasks on the car but that may be where I'm headed. Letting it stick when the valve is closed seams like the worse of two evils.
Sorry I missed this. Yes, the starter cable is routed correctly. I cannot STAND hoses running over an engine. I always change that when I get a car. I ground off the factory hose bracket on the valve cover for a cleaner look.
slantsixdan
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Yup, they do that. Try again with the special-for-this-purpose solvent, but realise that this valve might be done working, permanently—refer to post № 6 in this thread.
There is no "open" or "closed" on the Slant-6 valve; that's on V8s. There's "heat on" (rotated full clockwise as viewed from the front) and "heat off" (counterclockwise).
Yeah, I've sprayed quite a bit of the Mopar penetrant in there. It seams to have a bit of front to back slop, along with the shaft and/or housing worn a bit. It seams to bind less when the shaft is towards the front, so I 'farm fixed' the free play with a stack of flat washers between the manifold and return spring. I'm not holding my breath for a fix though...
I guess I should have looked closer at the flapper when the manifold was off. Does the heat on flapper setting restrict exhaust flow? If I had to have one setting for now, I suppose the heat off setting would be the place to be and let the car act like a cheap Japanese motorcycle when first started?
slantsixdan
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Yup, choose heat-off if it's gotta be one or the other. There's nowhere near as much exhaust restriction in "heat on" as in the V8 valve's "closed" position, so don't worry about it overmuch; the bigger drawback of permanent "heat on" is bitchy carburetion problems—percolation, etc.
Back-and-forth movement is meant to be stopped by clips in the shaft's grooves just outside the manifold, front and back. If grooves are empty, install clips. This in itself can greatly contribute to the valve not sticking!
Back-and-forth movement is meant to be stopped by clips in the shaft's grooves just outside the manifold, front and back. If grooves are empty, install clips. This in itself can greatly contribute to the valve not sticking!
slantsixdan
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Dude. No. Not unless you want to massively overpay. We're talking about ordinary, standard hairpin clips. Hardware store, outta the Hillman, Jandorf, or Dorman drawers. Like this or this.
Don't go running to throw money at specialty boutique suppliers for standard hardware items. And think very carefully and do a good bit of research before you decide to spend money at Layson's for clips or anything else. See, for just a few examples, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, here, and here. Much of what they sell is not of their own manufacture; a large proportion of their product line is bought elsewhere and marked up. They're almost never the only source for a part; see here for a listing of some more reliable vendors.
Wholly Cats!! Man, am I glad I missed that era. I was sent to Layson's by a Napa store when I first bought this 64 Dart - about two months ago. I've only dealt with Dave, and find him to be knowledgeable, and extremely passionate. Talking with Dave about Mopars is like asking for a drink of water and getting thrown in the lake! I found one or two items to be higher at Layson's, other items competitive, and they saved me over $250 on my new rear springs compared to Tacoma Spring's bid. Layson's mechanics have looked over my Dart four times now, and I probably have over an hour of time with them explaining how this Dart should be configured. (I keep learning over again that just because something is a certain way on this 56 year old car does not mean that it's supposed to be that way). It feels funny to me that a retailer will not take money for a mechanic's time. Oh, they also loaned me a specialty tool, again for free when I was reassembling my \6.
I apply a ton of your info Dan. Geeze, you're a living Mopar encyclopedia and tech guru. I gotta say though that I really feel lucky to have Layson's in my backyard. I'll archive your vendor recommendations along with the other vendors I've gleaned off this site.
Thanks again for the input. I'll keep my head on a swivel, and make sure I always use a credit card.
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