LD340 Can’t Get The Carb Base To Seal

It looks like the cover for the tach output is contacting the intake manifold. So spin it around so its facing back and reset the spark plug wires.
If that set up is the same as the later P-part tach drive distributors, then timing has to be set at mid rpm - something around 3000. Then the way those were set up back then, most racers just accepted the idle timing for whatever it was. You can search for posts about the MP tach drive distributors where I've posted the advance curve.
Bottom line is IF the primary advance is real quick like the later ones, and your checking at a high idle speed - like 1200 rpm, most of the advance is practically done.
Knowing the rpm of the timing measurements is critical to figuring out what the advance is doing.

For street use, a distributor with vac advance and the proper mechanical advance will provide better milage and be easier to tune.
Whether you want points or a electronic version, message @halifaxhops and maybe you can work out a deal.
Advantage in working with him is that he can set up an advance curve.

It actually has about an inch and a half before it touches the manifold, so there’s plenty of room to set the timing, what you said about the timing needing to be set at mid throttle though makes perfect sense, the advance doesn’t seem to be stuck, I can move the rotor a quarter inch or so with the cap off. I really think the distributor is ok, probably just not what I need for a street driven car. Thanks for the info, I’ll get with hallifaxhops and see what he thinks.