Installed new dual friction center force clutch clutch pedal is now very soft and doesn’t come back

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Sirsmiley9

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I switched my clutch from the stock one to the dual force clutch from centerforce. I replaced the z bar as well because I was swapping the engine from a slant six to a 360. Now when I try to push the clutch in there is no resistance and the clutch doesn’t try to come back up. If anyone recognizes what the issue might be I’m not sure
 
Did you check the throw out bearing to pressure plate fingers gap. That PP probably take a different length throw out bearing.
 
Where exactly does the pedal rest? Are you saying the pedal stays on the floor?

With no/zero resistance,
I'd say your ankle-bone ain't connected to the shin bone,lol,
the adjuster-rod needs a lot more adjusting,
or the swivel popped right thru the TO fork .
 
Is everything connected with clips and all? What is the Z Bar correct for V8 A-Body? What year of car are we working on?
 
I replaced the z bar so it is for a small block a body. Is there a clip that fits between where the z bar connects to the clutch and adjustment rod because they seem to be loose, and the clutch pedal will rest either on the floor or at the top but only if it’s brought back up
 
Is the throwout bearing even making contact with the pressure plate fingers? You need to get down there and look while someone operates the pedal so you can figure out how it works and what is wrong.
 
the clutch pedal will rest either on the floor or at the top but only if it’s brought back up
That indicates the TO bearing is not depressing the fingers, so probably is not moving enough or not moving at all.
Make sure your Z-bar is not moving laterally, and that the down-rod is staying more or less centered in the firewall window.
OOps treed again,lol
 
I replaced the z bar so it is for a small block a body. Is there a clip that fits between where the z bar connects to the clutch and adjustment rod because they seem to be loose, and the clutch pedal will rest either on the floor or at the top but only if it’s brought back up

Yes there is. There are 3 of these that hold it all together along with 3 plastic friction/wear inhibitor washers.

Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists

Brewer's Performance - Mopar A833 4-Speed Transmission and Component Specialists

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I added rod to my adjuster. Welded in an inch pc between eyelet and thread.
Sounds like you need to adjust it more.
 
You just need to adjust the fork rod all the way out for maximum length to the throw out bearing fork.
 
I would start at the rod. Disconnect it from the fork. Push the fork twords the rear of the car. The throwout bearing should contact the fingers at this point. Pull it back about 1/8- 3/16”. Jam a roll of tape under the pedal or use a spring to hold it up. At this point, with the pedal up and the clutch fork resting just back from the fingers, adjust the nut on the rod to this position. You should be back in business. It may sound funny, but I had one that the rod was stripped. It would work the first few times and then the rod would push through the nuts causing the pedal to stick to the floor and the clutch to not engage.
 
So ......
It was working before you changed the Z-bar?
The only linkage part that changed was the Z-bar?
Is the Z-bar sliding sideways on you while the pedal is depressed? (See post 11)
Did you happen to remove and re-install the fork?
 
So ......
It was working before you changed the Z-bar?
The only linkage part that changed was the Z-bar?
Is the Z-bar sliding sideways on you while the pedal is depressed? (See post 11)
Did you happen to remove and re-install the fork?
Fork not snapped into the pivot? I still say to get under there and watch the action while someone cycles the pedal. He will never figure out what's going on until he does.
 
Missing info

Car year and model ?
What year bellhousing ?
What year pivot bracket (z-bar) at bellhousing ?
What z-bar ?
What length clutch fork, 12 1/2 or 10 7/8, correct pivot for the fork that you are using.
Clutch rod length ?
Headers? What brand? Correct z-bar for headers?
Return spring for clutch fork?
What starter are you using?
Pictures?
All of these things matter, just went through this.
 
Missing info

Car year and model ?
What year bellhousing ?
What year pivot bracket (z-bar) at bellhousing ?
What z-bar ?
What length clutch fork, 12 1/2 or 10 7/8, correct pivot for the fork that you are using.
Clutch rod length ?
Headers? What brand? Correct z-bar for headers?
Return spring for clutch fork?
What starter are you using?
Pictures?
All of these things matter, just went through this.
its a 76 duster
its a quicktime bellhousing
im not sure what year it is I got a new small block v8 z bar bracket from classic industries
The clutch fork is the longer one made for the a bodies I believe 12 1/2
not sure what the length of the clutch rod is it that the threaded rod which is connected to the clutch fork
It has no headers on it at the moment its going to have shorty tight to the block hedmann headers
Im using a powermaster high speed starter, which is normal
 
They make a couple of different lengths of adj. rods, yes, it's the threaded rod.
Your zbar, is the lower arm at the end of the tube closest to engine? Or is it back a couple of ins? Mike said that you gotta get down there and see what it's doing.
Are things lined up, does it look right? Have someone push in the clutch while your down there and see what is happening.
I have a Lakewood scattershield and ended up with the 10 7/8 fork. There are specific pivots for each fork.
Pictures would be nice.
Pm some pictures to me, or post them.
I have to be somewhere soon. Will try to PM some pictures of mine when I get home.
 
Did you do any of the work on this car? Is someone else helping? Did someone else build the car and you bought it?
Going to try and send three pictures, but my phone and this site do not always work together.

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16001370108381616697107.jpg
 
Does the Quicktime use the stock bell ball pivot bracket or is it integrated? I ask because there are two for A-bodies, 71-down and 72 up. My cast TKO bell used the 72-up. So I wonder if he has the correct bell pivot?
 
Those pictures are helpful I think i messed something up the clutch fork slips off of the adjustment rod easily, but I can only work on the car on the weekends so I can update on friday. I have been doing an engine swap, so Ive just been trying to figure everything out as I go.
 
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