Wheel-A-Matic caster/camber gauge opinions

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Righty Tighty

Blame it on the dog
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I recently picked up a used Wheel-A-Matic WA601 caster/camber gauge. It seems to be in decent condition and I'm looking forward to learning how to use it. For those of you who've used one, what is your opinion on it and what was your experience?

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Gonna clean up the magnet, of course.
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OK you can easily check it for accuracy, and bear in mind that it (or any other caster/ camber gauge) does NOT measure caster. It simply CALCULATES caster from simple tilt readings, same as you can get from any tilt/ angle / off plumb gauge. So you can take an accurate level and create a "plumb" fixture, by clamping, tapping/ changing the angle in your vise, example, until it is "dead plumb"

HOW DO YOU KNOW a level is "level?" Easy. You turn it around. If a level when looking at it shows the bubble 1/16 off the right hand index mark, and you turn it around, the bubble should still go that direction, and read the same. If the bubble "leans right" and then you turn the level around, the bubble "leans left" then the LEVEL is off plumb, and not your test surface

So with that test surface plumb, now you can check your new gauge for plumb

CHECKING CASTER. You can double check caster readings, after you know the basic gauge is OK, by calculating caster yourself.

You rig turntables of some sort under your tires, and a way to measure straight ahead, as well as 20 degrees turned each way from that. You turn the wheels 20 one way, measure camber, turn them 20 the opposite way, and measure camber. Now take the difference and multiply that figure X1.5, and that is your caster. If the gauge is correct, it will agree

I have an old Ammco. The caster section one this type is nothing more than a circular slide rule

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Mine, the blue circular scale tilts the bubble, so you zero the bubble (on this one) and then read the blue scale for "tilt" which is camber. The red scale is not connected to anything, it simply free-wheels. You adjust the two of them to obtain the caster, the red one is simply "doing math"
 
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Your gauge is similar to the Longacre gauges. Here are the destructions for them, and there is lots of info on them around the www

Caster / Camber Gauge
  • Read to the center of the bubble.
  • Camber uses outside vials and reads in 1/4º.
  • Turn wheels 20º to R & L of center when setting caster w. vial type gauges.
  1. Find a level place to set up your front end.
  2. Attach the gauge to the spindle. If you have a magnetic adaptor be sure that the surface you attach to is machined square to the spindle and doesn't have any nicks or burrs.
    BE SURE WHEELS ARE POINTED STRAIGHT AHEAD WHEN SETTING CAMBER.
    With the thread-on type adaptor be certain the spindle threads are free of burrs. Usually there are a few extra threads on the spindle. If not you will need to remove the spindle nut and install the adaptor in its place.
  3. Rotate the gauge until the small vial at the end of the gauge shows level.
  4. Read the CAMBER directly on one of the two vials on either side of the gauge. Note that they are marked + and -. Read the line nearest to the center of the bubble. Each line is 1/4º.
  5. To read CASTER first turn the wheels 20º to the right when setting the RF and to the left when setting LF. If you don't have a set of turn plates you can use the angles machined on the corners of the gauge as a reference. Turn the wheels until the angle is parallel to the side of the car. Rotate the gauge until it is level.
  6. Turn the knurled nob in the center until the center caster vial reads 0º. Now turn the wheels back past center to 20º the opposite way - for a total of 40º. Rotate the gauge again to level (DON’T turn knurled knob). Read the caster directly on the center vial. Read to the center of the bubble. Each line is 1/2º.
    NOTE: If you need to measure more than 12º caster - racing karts for example - turn the wheel 20º and set the enter vial at negative 4º instead of 0º. Proceed as above and add 4º to the reading. This will give you a total range of 16º.
  7. Adjust the caster and camber as needed. Each time you make a change bounce on the front end to settle the suspension. Remove the gauge and reinstall the spindle nut if needed.
 
Thanks for the info! The gauge was included in a lot of tools I bought, and it seemed pretty neat.

Is this a tool that, if used properly, can eliminate the need to visit the alignment shop? Or is this something that will get me close enough to where I can drive it to the shop without doing any damage, and I’ll still need to throw it on the rack?
 
That is a good unit but you still need turn tables or something that will let the wheels slide easy. I had a Bear one then picked up a Snap on one so I sold the bear to my buddy and he uses it all the time.
 
What you need:

A level floor. I don't have this so I put the car on the trailer and then jack and block it level. That works great as you can reach stuff easier (for me)

Your caster/ camber gauge

As Brian said, turn tables. As Crackedback says, "there is more than one way to skin that cat." Some guys use various materials, floor tiles, sheet metal, with grease, salt, Google that DIY alignment turn tables etc etc

And you need some way to measure toe. I work alone, so I rigged up a toe gauge which turned out to be from a truck (too tall) so I cut it down. Some guys stick boards by the sides of the tires and measure across. Whatever, you need a way to accurately measure the tire centerline to the front and to the rear of the tire, and preferably, at the same height as the spindle.

Read your service manual. If you don't have one, download one free from MyMopar

1 Set ride height
2...Argue caster/ camber into place
3...Set toe
4...Drive car, center steering wheel if necessary, and recheck everything.
 
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