Instrument cluster issues

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Lets put this back into your original thread.


Lets keep this simple.
Engine off, key off, does the ammeter move when the dome lights or any other lights turn on?
If so, does it move toward discharge?

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The fuse for the instrument lighting is supplied power through the headlight switch. That's either a 2 or 3 amp fuse.
There is no fuse for the gages.
There is no fuse for the turn signal indicators.

Power for the turn signals and turn signal indicators comes through the flasher module from a welded junction in the accessory circuit.
Power for the instrument gages comes from the same welded junction in the accessory circuit.
Accessory is off with the key off, and on with key in run. All switched power other than the ignition and alternator field is an 'accessory'.

Lighting is not switched. It's hot at all times.

Schematically looks like this.
View attachment 1715594955

View attachment 1715594959

Connection details on your '68 may be slightly different but it works the same way.[/QUOTE
Amp meter does not move at all fuel gauge not working directionals work but no indicator lights at the fuse box the one that says instrument has no power to it
 
Did you turn the lights on while watching the ammeter?
 
will changing the voltage regulator help address issues with the speedo needle "bouncing" around? also my fuel gauge needle doesn't go all the way to full even with full tank, i know the fuel sending unit is good
 
will changing the voltage regulator help address issues with the speedo needle "bouncing" around? also my fuel gauge needle doesn't go all the way to full even with full tank, i know the fuel sending unit is good
The speedometer gets the speed reading directly from the transmission. All A bodies most likely used a cable type system to connect the transmission to the speedo. From what I've learned, if the speedometer is bouncing around, the cable might need to be lubricated with new grease or the cable is bad, the cable shouldn't be too difficult to remove from the trans if that's the case. Less likely cause would be either the mechanism in the instrument cluster is bad or the plastic gear for the cable in the transmission is worn.
 
will changing the voltage regulator help address issues with the speedo needle "bouncing" around? also my fuel gauge needle doesn't go all the way to full even with full tank, i know the fuel sending unit is good
Speedo is purely mechanical as Tylan pointed out.

The fuel guage is dictated by the following.

  1. The sender is not providing the correct resistance to the guage.
  2. The wires from the sender to the guages have bad connections thus increasing the resistance.
  3. The ground strap between the sender and the body/fuel line is missing or has a bad connection
  4. The guage is internally damaged
  5. The guage is needing to be calibrated
  6. The IVR is not putting out the correct voltage.
  7. The sender float has a leak and is not able to go to full.
  8. The sender is not adjusted correctly

And the list goes on.

My fuel gauge will not read empty when the sender is outputting the correct resistance for E. When I first put it the OEM sender in my guage read way over full. I adjusted the up limit and now it reads F with a full tank.
 
Guys. Go start your own thread. Ron's got his hands full with his own instrument panel questions.
Its hard enough trying to help one person, never mind three.
 
No onder I was confused by the questions, first it didn't work then it did. I was not paying attention to who was asking the questions.

Sorry for muddying the waters
 
LOL. Glad to know I wasn't the only one getting confused!
 
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