abodyjim
Well-Known Member
Subscribed
318/8 Speed Swap
- Thread starter wish4hemi
- Start date
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"As of right now we are using http://soundgermanautomotive.com/pcs/ . His kit comes with a harness and uses a CAN playback box to fake out the factory TCM, making it think it's in a new production vehicles. It also requires a new 8 speed factory shifter. Also we had to purchase hp tuners and 4 credits to unlock the trans and adjust a torque converter setting. Since torque management is disabled on the Mopar crate ecm kit, the trans can drop to neutral when coming to stops because engine rpm may get to low.(currently only in track mode because of the aggressive shift schedule, other modes work fine) We are using a brand new under warranty hemi crate engine and didn't want to touch the ecm in case warranty was needed. A setting in HP Tuners helped with dropping to neutral except in track mode when coming to a stop. With out torque management for the ecm from the tcm to quickly adjust ignition timing to maintain a low precise engine rpm, it gets dragged down to low and trans drops to neutral.(flashing D on shifter) After the engines warranty is up we plan on setting min idle speed up some with hp tuners which should take care of that issue. Since we were very early adopters of this, there was some other bugs that got worked out and SoundGerman worked on software updates in a timely manner. Depending what ECM (factory/crate) / TCM combo could affect what software sound german sends. Our situation may have been a little unique because it doesn't seem like he got many people before us with the actually brand new factory crate. We got the trans used, the crate kit was never meant to be connected to an auto trans. Which is why Mopar disabled torque management. The crate ECM is apparently unlocked so cost is minimal to use hp turners on it. There is another company out there selling a kit that enables torque management but requires flashing the ECM. I don't have any experiences with their kit to know if it is bug less or not. The Soundgerman is working fine for our application. As time goes on if the any kits appear to be flawless maybe we would consider them if cost is not insane. flashing software and swapping a harness is very little labor. But I don't for see that with how this kit works today. Also the 2018 center console looks factory in the 1974 Cuda."
roadrunninMark
Well-Known Member
Has there been any updates with this swap?
Mattmoto441
Well-Known Member
Bump
Unfortunately, I don't have any updates as the car for which this swap was slated is no longer around. I have the grand majority of the R&D work done, so I might just list the trans for sale along with my boatload of information and contacts.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Found this - Swapping Chrysler's 8HP70/90 8 Speed Transmission
Looks to be Hemi swap specific, but they mention an aftermarket controller if all the parts in the list aren't available.
Looks to be Hemi swap specific, but they mention an aftermarket controller if all the parts in the list aren't available.
roadrunninMark
Well-Known Member
Let me know what you have in mind, Wish. I just recently read, I think on Facebook or somewhere, that if the engine is moved forward slightly, the transmission can fit better in the tunnel. It wouldn't be necessary to cut the tunnel. I don't know how easy it would be to do this with an LA on a stock K member.
roadrunninMark
Well-Known Member
As for the issue of the flexplate, can this be used to mount the TC to this flexplate then to an LA crankshaft? PRW 1834500: Gold Series SFI-Rated Chromoly Steel Flexplate Mopar 5.7L/6.1L Modular Hemi | JEGS
roadrunninMark
Well-Known Member
Also see on RockAuto, the ring gears are available.... maybe weld up directly to the converter like the LA?
ATP ZA507 {#1941648, 2402216} Info
Outer Diameter: 13.195"; Clutch Size: 10" or 10.5"
$20.79
ATP ZA505 {#2121196, 2863495} Info
Trans. code A904 (30RH); Outer Diameter: 12.276"; Clutch Size: 9.25" Or 10" (Only 1 Remaining)
$20.79
PIONEER FRG130T {#1941648} Info
Outer Diameter: 13.195"; Clutch Size: 10" or 10.5"
$24.79
PIONEER FRG122T {#2121196} Info
Trans. code A904 (30RH); Outer Diameter: 12.276"; Clutch Size: 9.25" Or 10"
$32.79
ATP ZA507 {#1941648, 2402216} Info
Outer Diameter: 13.195"; Clutch Size: 10" or 10.5"
$20.79
ATP ZA505 {#2121196, 2863495} Info
Trans. code A904 (30RH); Outer Diameter: 12.276"; Clutch Size: 9.25" Or 10" (Only 1 Remaining)
$20.79
PIONEER FRG130T {#1941648} Info
Outer Diameter: 13.195"; Clutch Size: 10" or 10.5"
$24.79
PIONEER FRG122T {#2121196} Info
Trans. code A904 (30RH); Outer Diameter: 12.276"; Clutch Size: 9.25" Or 10"
$32.79
Chevelleguy
Member
Hey guys, I'm that chevelle guy lol. this is my fav video of it
I ran it at the texas mile a few times, it put down about 850hp to the tire in this video. I've blown up 3 ls motors but the 8hp70 is still going strong.
If anyone has questions about how I did it pls fire away, I'm putting one in a converted 1970 blazer 4x4 now and saw this thread while looking for a controller.
I'm still using one I built however I'd prefer a more commercial controller.
I ran it at the texas mile a few times, it put down about 850hp to the tire in this video. I've blown up 3 ls motors but the 8hp70 is still going strong.
If anyone has questions about how I did it pls fire away, I'm putting one in a converted 1970 blazer 4x4 now and saw this thread while looking for a controller.
I'm still using one I built however I'd prefer a more commercial controller.
roadrunninMark
Well-Known Member
Hi ChevelleGuy, welcome to the board and thanks for offering your help! I do have a few questions. As far as a controller, contact Russell Drake at Sound German Automotive. He is the go to guy for a controller.
1. Did you use a Chevy flexplate to attach to the torque convertor?
2. What starter did you use?
3. Did you have any issues with the torque convertor big "hub" that sits near the crankshaft?
4. Whose driveshaft did you use and what did you do for a slip joint?
Thanks!
1. Did you use a Chevy flexplate to attach to the torque convertor?
2. What starter did you use?
3. Did you have any issues with the torque convertor big "hub" that sits near the crankshaft?
4. Whose driveshaft did you use and what did you do for a slip joint?
Thanks!
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I found out about you and your car because of this thread. WHAT WE want to know is how you did the control/ controller/ software. Even though I'm a Mopar guy I've always liked 65-70ish Chevelles.
I'm also interested in the mechanical parts (flex plate, tq converter, etc)
But I'm mainly interested in the controller. I saw from your previous posts that it's full manual, and that's what I'd want anyways. But the info you have on the controller interface and solenoid control would be immensely helpful.
putting 850 to the ground through the stock 8hp70? stock converter? VERY interested. thanks for joining@!!!!
Chevelleguy
Member
Thanks for the contact info!
I used a chevy flexplate and ls starter. The first time I put it together I drilled the converter and flexplate and used 1" spacers to connect them. I made an adapter out of aluminum that pressed into the crank to center the pilot. Since then I I had an adapter made out of 1" thick aluminum about 10" in diameter that allowed me to use the stock mounts for flex plate and converter with an adapter pressed in the center for the pilot. I switched because I thought the pilot adapter was moving around on me. for the driveshaft I used 'the driveshaft shop', I told them what i was doing and they made me an aluminum shaft with a plunging cv on the tranny side and 1350 on the rearend
Chevelleguy
Member
I used a teensy controller and arduino. and some mosfets. I used oshpark to print the board. I'm no hardware engineer but it works. basically I hard wired the 5 clutch solenoids, the park solenoids, the lockup solenoid, and the pressure solenoid each to a mosfet. I used the pwm feature from the teensy to vary the current to each solenoid. crude but it allows me to put full pressure to the clutch packs which i think is partly why i get away with putting so much power through it.
I'm a software guy so i thought it would be fun but at this stage i just manually shift it with an up shift and down shift switch. I'm playing with full auto but have no desire to compete with commercial stuff.
one of the awesome features of this tranny is that any shift is simply release one clutch, engage another one. I actually engage the shift clutch before i release the other clutch, it makes for a FIRM shift
I lock up all of the clutches for a transbrake then release the 3 that give me the gear i want.also, and it's pretty obvious in that video above, I use the lock up converter alot. the dyno pull was in 6th gear with locked converter.
Chevelleguy
Member
stock ls flex plate, stock dodge ram 1500 converter, i now use a 1" thick adapter to mate the 2. and I use 2 half inch thick plates to mate the tranny to the motor, one plate has the chevy pattern, the other has the tranny pattern. i mount the motor plate to the motor with counter sunk bolts then mount the tranny plate to that with counter sunk bolts. the tranny then bolts to that. hope that makes sense?
if you are interested I will share the schematics and source code, for reference only of course
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Chevelleguy
Member
really only on the dyno! it normally has street tires on it which are the weak link. at the mile I used r7's but didn't lean on it till 4th gear
Chevelleguy
Member
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67Dart273
Well-Known Member
View attachment 1715595778
I used a teensy controller and arduino. and some mosfets. I used oshpark to print the board. I'm no hardware engineer but it works. basically I hard wired the 5 clutch solenoids, the park solenoids, the lockup solenoid, and the pressure solenoid each to a mosfet. I used the pwm feature from the teensy to vary the current to each solenoid. crude but it allows me to put full pressure to the clutch packs which i think is partly why i get away with putting so much power through it.
I'm a software guy so i thought it would be fun but at this stage i just manually shift it with an up shift and down shift switch. I'm playing with full auto but have no desire to compete with commercial stuff.
one of the awesome features of this tranny is that any shift is simply release one clutch, engage another one. I actually engage the shift clutch before i release the other clutch, it makes for a FIRM shift
also, and it's pretty obvious in that video above, I use the lock up converter alot. the dyno pull was in 6th gear with locked converter.
I'd love it if you could provide some documentation on this. "It might" give me insight on other solenoid shifted transmissions. I've said this before LOL Ironic that a GM guy is screwin with Mopar transmissions!!
stock ls flex plate, stock dodge ram 1500 converter, i now use a 1" thick adapter to mate the 2. and I use 2 half inch thick plates to mate the tranny to the motor, one plate has the chevy pattern, the other has the tranny pattern. i mount the motor plate to the motor with counter sunk bolts then mount the tranny plate to that with counter sunk bolts. the tranny then bolts to that. hope that makes sense?
if you are interested I will share the schematics and source code, for reference only of course
Makes perfect sense, nice and easy. Lots of great info you posted today, it's greatly appreciated.
if you're willing to send me the source code and schematics drop me a PM and I'll give you my email address.
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roadrunninMark
Well-Known Member
ChevelleGuy,
Yes, thanks for all the pics/info. Do you know what drive line angles you have, front and back? I am wondering with the CV joint should you maintain a close to 0 or very small degree down on the transmission side and maybe less than 4 degrees up on the rear differential side. Also, your 1" thick drum, that is the same thickness of both plates? I am thinking out loud here, trying to see if any spacers are necessary when mounting the torque converter to a non hemi small block flex plate. Or, to use the hemi flex plate as it has the correct hole for the converter snout and can use the hemi starter, since the transmission will directly bolt to the non hemi block. I would assume I would need to redrill it to match my crankshaft.
Yes, thanks for all the pics/info. Do you know what drive line angles you have, front and back? I am wondering with the CV joint should you maintain a close to 0 or very small degree down on the transmission side and maybe less than 4 degrees up on the rear differential side. Also, your 1" thick drum, that is the same thickness of both plates? I am thinking out loud here, trying to see if any spacers are necessary when mounting the torque converter to a non hemi small block flex plate. Or, to use the hemi flex plate as it has the correct hole for the converter snout and can use the hemi starter, since the transmission will directly bolt to the non hemi block. I would assume I would need to redrill it to match my crankshaft.
Is your trans from a 5.7 car or a 6.4 car? I bought mind from a wrecked 6.4 car, and wondered how the converter is going to behave...or if i should go aftermarket converter before i even bolt it together.
I'm anticipating 900-1000 crank (twin turbo gen III hemi) sounds like your LS is in that territory....so was curious how the stock converter behaved, and which one you had.
thanks again for joining. super cool setup.
Travis Mitchell
Active Member
Have you found out anymore on this?? I’m curious about the best way to fit it.
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