too high compression?

Update for you following along at home. I tightened the EGR so it would delay the opening (FSM says 1500-2500RPM should open) and then I started investigating other parts of the system Took the EGR pipe off and cleaned it (wasn't dirty) checked all the gaskets, all good. Pulled the therm valve the EGR runs through and tested it opening. It opens at 120F with a little click, so far so good. But I did learn something that could be relevant: The thermo-valve has 2 nipples and a vent. one nipple is closed at lo temp, that goes to the vacuum amp that meters the vacuum to the EGR through this valve. The other nipple is open to the vent on the bottom when cold, that one goes to the EGR itself. Only when the intake water supply is above 120F does the vacuum source nipple open to the other nipple, close the vent and pass the vacuum. Im almost certain I had these reversed so I was getting a vacuum leak until warm 120F and then the valve would close to opertional status. That would explain the rough cold idle and possible the lean knock, ot that could have been part of the early opening of the EGR. So now it idles really good, replaced the leaking rad cap so it holds pressure now and darn it, I couldn't drive it to test but I believe I'm making progress. Next is road test and dialing in that EGR pintle height. Gotta run it, might as well make it work.