Magnum Swap with Carb
FWIW I think we need to be careful comparing hp rated in net or gross.
I believe the crate 300hp engine is a gross rating....
The say, 2000 ram 5.9 240?HP is net rating....
Assuming the crate motor was installed with factory magnum exhaust manifolds, and the only real changes is an alum. aftermarket intake, small 4bbl. and electronic ignition, in reality, the hp is going to be much closer.
True, it is a gross rating. Just basic changes on the engine. The typical beginner bolt on hot rod parts.
Could you look through that catalog and find out the part number for the valve springs that was used in that 380 horse motor?
Does it suck that you can’t get the MP bump stick anymore?
The book says it "dyno tested" 300+ . Gross or net ???
At the flywheel.
If he leaves it stock,. I agree with your carburetor assessment.
What I did at the bottom.....
The 300 HP (gross) crate 360 is the 245 net HP stock magnum 5.9
The 300 hp crate is a stock truck long block, cam and all, with a intake swap. The 380 hp crate is the same long block with a single plane intake, a bigger cam, and different valve springs.
Pretty cool what a few bolt on parts do huh?
Why do they not recommend using the factory MPI or AC if it is just a stock motor?
I wanted to use one in my Dakota but didn't because of this statement.
Good question. I wonder if it is an intake manifold fitting issue? That it interferes with the A/C bracket? Magnum style A/C issue? I think that’s it. Not so much the LA brackets.
@Haney I plucked out a ‘00, Durango 5.9 for my ‘79 Magnum. Backed it with a 727 & 3.55 gears on 27 inch tires. What I did to the engine was;
Installed a RPM & a 600 AFB carb w/a ‘72 trap door air cleaner housing a K&N filter.
Junk yard distributor fired by a MP Chrome box.
Hooker Super Competition 1-3/4 Headers into a 2-1/2 exhaust to the bumper. The 1-5/8 provides a little more torque for this particular application and I just used what I had on hand.
The car is a good bit lighter, just under 3800lbs. vs what ever your truck weighs in at. So when it comes to a cam, I would keep it small for the added torque your looking for. You will not need a big lift. Just another 10*’s of duration is all you’ll need.
If this was my situation that your in, besides the above of what I did, I would certainly select a Hyd. roller cam for a simple replacement swap. The cam itself is a tick over $300, but you reuse everything else. (Perhaps not the valve springs....) Though a new timing chain and chain tensioner would also come with the cam since your all ready there. You might as well!
I found the (‘00) Magnum in my (‘79) Magnum a really nice power plant. Very torquey &
with good HP for a strictly street bound daily driver.
The 600 cfm carb was IMO an excellent match with really good pedal response and road manors. I’m sure a 750 would work. But I have seen no need for it unless I would be spending more time upstairs in the rpm range. Which is done early with the factory cam.
I didn’t have the flex plate. I used a B&M flex plate to mate to the neutral balance converter. I also used Lokar cables for the throttle and trans kick down.
