Anyone use a Rollmaster timing chain?

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I still have my cam gear and chain and they are new. Does anyone know if the crank gear is available separately?
 
That's the same as Rollmaster. One bought the other out. I don't know which.
Yes, JP bought out Rollmaster, as stated earlier the German IWIS chain is high quality.
I think I’m correct in also highlighting that it’s not possible to run the factory oil slinger with a Rollmaster bottom gear as its prone to interference and damage - not really a big issue as many treat the slinger as an option anyway.
 
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I still have my cam gear and chain and they are new. Does anyone know if the crank gear is available separately?
Rusty, let me know if you can’t get one, as luck would have it JP Engineering is only a couple of miles from my house so I’d be happy to get one direct for you and post it to the US if you’re happy to wait on shipping.
 
Yes, JP bought out Rollmaster, as stated earlier the German IWIS chain is high quality.
I think I’m correct in also highlighting that it’s not possible to run the factory oil slinger with a Rollmaster bottom gear as its prone to interference and damage - not really a big issue as many treat the slinger as an option anyway.

I dont know about /6`s , or small blocks , but I run the oil slinger on my 440/505 with a rollmaster =no problems !
 
Rusty, let me know if you can’t get one, as luck would have it JP Engineering is only a couple of miles from my house so I’d be happy to get one direct for you and post it to the US if you’re happy to wait on shipping.
Cal no issues with the slinger on mine and bottom gear had no fitment issues considering tightness.
 
Thanks I’ve seen them do that when they were fitted backwards they bind up against the chain but on that thread the op stated there were 2 types which measured lager than the other which I’ve never heard of before . Thanks for that something to look out for.
 
Rollmaster timing sets are an Australian made product. Great quality billet gear sets with true roller chain. I just replaced the sloppy chain in my 273 Commando with a Rollmaster last week.

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I sold one of those a while ago. The tightness of the bottom cog would explain the hammer marks on the face. Someone probably trying to tap it on on its prior motor. Figure out your cam timing prior to putting it on if possible and heat it up with a torch. I did this with a alternator pulley that was a biotch to pull off (even with a dedicated alternator/PS pulley remover) and to get on would be near impossible as the shaft was not threaded. I heated it up under a propane torch for about a minute, grabbed it with a pair of channel locks and it slid on like a boss, all the way down in one smooth push. 3 seconds later that thing was locked on again. You got one chance, make it happen.
 
Rusty, let me know if you can’t get one, as luck would have it JP Engineering is only a couple of miles from my house so I’d be happy to get one direct for you and post it to the US if you’re happy to wait on shipping.

I have no problem waiting. I've looked and I cannot find anyone here who sells the pieces separate.
 
Ok, so just to be sure, it’s a slant6 nine key way crank gear for a Rollmaster Chain Set that you need?

That's correct. Let me come back to this thread and confirm later today that I can still pout my hand on it. I think Kitty had it earlier......and that might not be good. LOL
 
It's not the greatest to "Figure out your cam timing prior to putting it on if possible and heat it up with a torch" because in most cases you need to figure out the timing using the actual gear. Even if you had a 'setup' gear, you wouldn't be sure it was the same as the 'real' gear.

It's interesting that you can buy a cheap OEM type timing set from a number of vendors and they all seem to fit pretty well...yet the Rollmasters seem to all be tight. You'd think they'd loosen them up a bit. Probably a symptom of using the metric system lol.
 
It's not the greatest to "Figure out your cam timing prior to putting it on if possible and heat it up with a torch" because in most cases you need to figure out the timing using the actual gear. Even if you had a 'setup' gear, you wouldn't be sure it was the same as the 'real' gear.

It's interesting that you can buy a cheap OEM type timing set from a number of vendors and they all seem to fit pretty well...yet the Rollmasters seem to all be tight. You'd think they'd loosen them up a bit. Probably a symptom of using the metric system lol.


LOL
 
Single chains are fine for most of what we build but double roller sells better....
 
Does anyone actually a single row timing chain?
 
Tight! You want tight.
That's why you use a little Neverseeze on the shaft and sprocket at installation.
Helps it go on and you will get it back off.
Wipe off excess and you're good to go.
 
I've seen opinions over on Speed-talk that you only need a single but doubles sell.

Smokey Yunick used stock GM gear drives that came in HD trucks...Grumpy Jenkins used GM sets with the nylon top sprocket to get rid of bad harmonics in the valve train that killed valve springs.

Yunick also filmed the timing chains thru a clear plastic timing cover. He said the timimg chain at speed looked like a snake trying to escape from a small box....wiggled and whipped around


I'n a race motor long term wear isn't a factor so a single row would be fine.

Double rollers were never around back 40/50 years ago. I never stopped racing because double rollers had not been invented yet.... Can you imagine the first Indy 500 in 1911 being postponed because the SBC had not been invented?
 
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I've seen opinions over on Speed-talk that you only need a single but doubles sell.

Smokey Yunick used stock GM gear drives that came in HD trucks...Grumpy Jenkins used GM sets with the nylon top gear to get rid of bad harmonics in the valve train that killed valve springs.

Yunick also filmed the timing chains thru a clear plastic timing cover. He said the timimg chain at speed looked like a snake trying to escape from a small box....wiggled and whipped around


I'n a race motor long term wear isn't a factor so a single row would be fine.

Double rollers were never around back 40/50 years ago. I never stopped racing because double rollers had not been invented yet.... Can you imagine the first Indy 500 in 1911 being postponed because the SBC had not been invented?
I HAVE 3 SINGLE ROLL PLASTIC GEAR SETUPS ON MY WALL they all have broken teeth maybe 10,000 hard miles on each once i switched to a steel gear never had a problem , plastic is good for lego , not something that gets lots of miles
 
The double row chain is used for a few good reasons. It's cheap, works well, easy to obtain, and is proven over billions of miles. In some cases, there might be a need/advantage to using something else, but....
 
I would bet single row chains have than billions of miles!!!

And, not trying to be a smart ***, but a chain is used with sprockets not gears. And I used a Rollmaster on my last early Hemi build and a few others.
 
Does anyone actually a single row timing chain?
My 71 Honda AN600 used a single row timing chain.....and there are still silent chains out there, still work great.
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The construction of a silent chain is 25% stronger than a double roller. Look how many plates a silent chain has (4 or more) compared to the 3 (minimum) of a double roller. I have a silent chain on my tensioner equipped 273, tight as a drum.
 
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