Voltage regulator location? Need a new alternator?
Also we see in the photo that the engine harness has been changed or at least recovered with wire loom (rather than harness tape).
First have you noticed whether voltage goes up and down with rpm?
If it was steady, then definately test as 67Dart273 outlined in post #6.
I'd also add checking for voltage difference between the alternator output stud (marked BATT) and the regulator's IGN terminal with the engine running.*
Best I can tell they tend to have a higher field current draw than standard squarebacks. Sometimes more than the regulators made for the earlier alternators can handle.
But test for voltage drops first before jumping to any conclusions.
R6 is the alternator output wire. Originally it went through the bulkhead connector and joined the battery output/charge wire at welded splice. Power is distributed from that splice to where ever it is needed.
The original gages were powered from the accessory feed and had (have) no fuse. They are (were) provided a reduced power by an electromechanical regulator on the instrument panel.
The ammeter, if still present, is completely seperate from the other instruments. It's needle deflects due to the magnetic field created by the current passing to or from the battery.
From what you have described so far it sounds like someone replaced a fair amount of electrical stuff, perhaps with a kit.
You will probably want to make up your own diagram based on what you find.
Those are pretty major changes too.
Also we see in the photo that the engine harness has been changed or at least recovered with wire loom (rather than harness tape).
Not first.
First have you noticed whether voltage goes up and down with rpm?
If it was steady, then definately test as 67Dart273 outlined in post #6.
I'd also add checking for voltage difference between the alternator output stud (marked BATT) and the regulator's IGN terminal with the engine running.*
The alternator you bought is a "revised squareback" with one brush grounded like a 1969 and earlier alternator.
Best I can tell they tend to have a higher field current draw than standard squarebacks. Sometimes more than the regulators made for the earlier alternators can handle.
But test for voltage drops first before jumping to any conclusions.
Here's where the wires ORIGINALLY were routed.
R6 is the alternator output wire. Originally it went through the bulkhead connector and joined the battery output/charge wire at welded splice. Power is distributed from that splice to where ever it is needed.
The original gages were powered from the accessory feed and had (have) no fuse. They are (were) provided a reduced power by an electromechanical regulator on the instrument panel.
The ammeter, if still present, is completely seperate from the other instruments. It's needle deflects due to the magnetic field created by the current passing to or from the battery.
From what you have described so far it sounds like someone replaced a fair amount of electrical stuff, perhaps with a kit.
You will probably want to make up your own diagram based on what you find.
