NO, but I can help you imagine one.
Suppose you set your idle-timing to 14* and you limited the Power-timing to 34*. This requires you to modify your mechanical advance mechanism so that it can only advance 34 less 14= 20*
Then suppose you installed some springs in there that were soft enough to allow the beginning of advancement to start at 1000 rpm, and it required 3400 rpm to fully advance to the max of 34*.
This is a typical performance starter tune.
So now the first thing most guys wanna figure out is how much timing the engine will tolerate before it detonates. But I don't know if most guys even know what detonation sounds like, or feels like; and typically the engine exhaust is way to loud to hear it anyway.
Furthermore; in a streeter, looking for it is crazy. Here's why;
#1, your butt-dyno cannot tell the difference between perfect timing and 2 or 3 degrees less than perfect.
#2 Who is to say your engine will want the same Power-Timing all the way from 3600 to shift-rpm?
#3 ,3600rpm with 2.76s in first gear (2.45) is about 38 mph. How often are you gonna nail it at 38 mph, and require perfect timing from there on up?
#4 How much power is actually lost, on the power peak, running 2 or 3 degrees less than perfect Power-Timing? And how much is that at 38mph?
The stock cam power-peaks at around 4000; I'd be surprised to learn that 3* less than perfect timing, equates to 6 hp. At 3600/38mph, I'd be surprised to learn of more than 2 or 3 hp. See what I mean? Hunting for perfection,this early in the game is crazy, and not worth risking engine damage to go looking for.
Therefore, set the Power-Timing limit at 34*, and call it done. To do this see note 1.
Now, earlier I talked about your typical curve being all in by 3600. You need to map your current curve to have a starting point; see note 2. If your curve is done by 3000, don't sweat it. Just don't mash the gas until 3600 for testing purposes. I am trying to save your engine,We'll get to sub-3600 in just a bit.
Having done that,Your Power-timing is now set, and it behooves you to verify that this is not too much. see note 3.
Having done that; you now test all the rpms from stall to 3600, with the existing curve. If you hear detonation, see note 4. If you do not hear detonation, see note5
Note 1.
Just rev it up until the the D stops advancing, and move the Distributor to change the timing to 34* from whatever it was. This will usually occur close to 3600 but could go as high as 4200.
Note 2
Ok now let's make a map. Grab a sheet of graph paper, and draw a giant L on it, using the 4th line from the edges. The vertical line will be calibrated in degrees, and the horizontal in rpm. Start in the corner as 0-0. Upwards you need about 40 degrees. and sideways you need about 4000 rpm.
Where 3600 and 34 degrees meet , you put your first data point.
Note3
roadtest time! take the warmed up engine to 3500 in second gear. We are gonna use the wind for a load tester cuz that's all we got. If this is more than the speed limit with your gears and tires, STOP! Start over in first gear. Now, back to 3500. Slam the pedal down, and listen carefully. When she gets to 4400 stop the test. If you did not hear detonation, and you know what it sounds like, and your combo is actually quiet enough that you are able to hear the engine; Great, call it done for now. Try it several times cuz it's just so much fun, er, I mean, to be sure.
Note 4
Note 5
more coming, but I got some stuff to do now
