I hate wiring

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1fastgreencar

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Electrical problems 1974 dodge dart I had a small wire fire under the dash I think I’ve replaced everything bad but now alternator does not charge both field post on the alternator test positive when I connect a field wire to the positive side
 
Take the alternator to o'riellys or auto zone and have it checked for free. Then go from there.....
 
Try working on the new ****. It is insane!!

I worked for Cadillac for 10 years, I had to replace a complete car harness in a Seville. It came in a box on a pallet and it weighed 200 lbs. That is a lot of copper.
 
I had to do that in a minivan. Chrysler came up with a great idea that if they got rid of the connectors there would be no more wiring problems. It was one harness for the whole van. How ******* stupid. Gutted the car to a shell. Can't remember what years it was but they quickly got away from that idea. I still work at a Chrysler dealership. It sucks and the wiring diagrams are the worst I have ever seen. Between Mopar, Daimler and Fiat it's unreal. I'm glad for beer when I get home.
 
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Brian6pac did you work at the one in Kent, Oh? The one by the A&W? If so I think I know you. I worked at Klaben next door. I bought some "E" body stuff from you way back when if so.
 
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Brian6pac did you work at the one in Kent, Oh? The one by the A&W? If so I think I know you. I worked at Klaben next door. I bought some "E" body stuff from you way back when if so.

Yea that's me. Small world
 
why I just bought all new harnesses for my 66 barracuda. cant wait to plug it all together.
 
Electrical problems 1974 dodge dart I had a small wire fire under the dash I think I’ve replaced everything bad but now alternator does not charge both field post on the alternator test positive when I connect a field wire to the positive side

I don't understand your test The two field terminals are each end of an electromagnet and are both insulated from anything else when disconnected

Do some simple tests.

Turn key to "run" with engine off. Don't leave the key on for too long, just long enough to do your tests

Disconnect green field wire, and use a jumper wire to short the alternator field terminal you just now disconnected (not the wire) to ground. should see a small spark in subdued light. "alligator" clip that wire to ground and start the engine, watch the ammeter. Also "rig" your multimeter to the battery so you can see it. Bring RPM up and ammeter should show a charge, and multimeter should "come up." Try not to allow it above 16V

If this happens, alternator itself is charging.

Now reconnect all wiring "normal." Move to VR. Disconnect connector, push it on/ off several times to 'feel' for tightness and scrub connections. Make CERTAIN VR is grounded. "Rig" a way to jumper across the two harness connector terminals.

Move back to alternator. This time disconnect the blue field wire. Jumper that wire to ground. Again start see if it charges. If so, this checks the field / VR wiring. If it works replace VR

HOW THIS WORKS. Both the VR and one of the alternator fields receive switched ignition power through blue wires. The VR green goes to the alternator field and "sort of" controls the grounding of that green wire. So power goes to the field (light blue) through the field, out the green, and to controlled ground VIA the VR.

IF NOTHING in these tests makes sense:

Go back to alternator. Disconnect green, jumper that alternator terminal to ground. With key in run, check voltage at blue field wire WITH the wire connected. You should have near same as battery voltage. if so make certain field is drawing current. Get car into subdued lighting, repeatedly connect/ disconnect jumper. You should see a small spark, might even hear it.

Run engine, check that it charges, and battery voltage rises. If not move your meter to the alternator large output stud. While running with jumper installed, if that voltage stays low, say 12 or below, it is not charging. Replace alternator

If voltage goes up and is higher than battery say 2 volts higher than whatever battery reads, then you have some voltage drop in the charging output path

If voltage goes WAY up say 24 or higher, and battery stays low down around 12, then you have a BROKEN path in the charge line.
 
OP. You need to learn this. It is not that difficult.

EDIT: LOL What I mean is you can dump a lot of money into mechanics that really don't know any more about these old girls than you do

I knew nothing at all about alternators on autos when I was young. Back then (in the late 60's) THERE WAS no internet. You hoped your Dad's "Motors Manual" covered some of it. You went to the dealer and PAID damn good hard earned money for the service manual. And multimeters were not cheap and available at every corner auto parts and hardware store.

You have a service manual? Go to MyMopar and download one............free

You need a 12V test lamp, a decent multimeter, and some alligator clip jumper leads. You can order alligator clips on egag and solder up a few.
 
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Also if your 74 is stock wiring, you need to consider bypassing the seat belt interlock. 74 is the only year to have this. Look under the hood on the driver side fender for a box about the size of a horn relay with a big red reset knob. Find the "yelowish" wires and splice them permanently together if not already done

67dart273, seat belt interlock - Google Search

100_0894-jpg-jpg.jpg


When the two yellow wires are jumpered this prevents the interlock from disabling the starter relay. This was an incredibly stupid U.S. Federal safety rule that lasted one year before the pubic revolted
 
Wiring can be frustrating when you are coming at it cold in an assembled car, however it is not that difficult, in fact I rather enjoy it because it is methodical and there a organization to it. I am currently completely rewiring a 69 Wagon from scratch using an aftermarket harness, it is tedious but not impossible.

IMG_2310.JPG
 
I bought my '72 Dart as a stripped rolling shell. Not a wire anywhere.
So I started from scratch with reels of wire in multiple colors, and a wad of adhesive wire markers... it is amazing how much there is, even in a simple car like this with no electronics or computers. I don't think I'll do that again ;)
(Also I had to make all the brake lines, fuel lines... plenty of them too!)
 
I don't understand your test The two field terminals are each end of an electromagnet and are both insulated from anything else when disconnected

Do some simple tests.

Turn key to "run" with engine off. Don't leave the key on for too long, just long enough to do your tests

Disconnect green field wire, and use a jumper wire to short the alternator field terminal you just now disconnected (not the wire) to ground. should see a small spark in subdued light. "alligator" clip that wire to ground and start the engine, watch the ammeter. Also "rig" your multimeter to the battery so you can see it. Bring RPM up and ammeter should show a charge, and multimeter should "come up." Try not to allow it above 16V

If this happens, alternator itself is charging.

Now reconnect all wiring "normal." Move to VR. Disconnect connector, push it on/ off several times to 'feel' for tightness and scrub connections. Make CERTAIN VR is grounded. "Rig" a way to jumper across the two harness connector terminals.

Move back to alternator. This time disconnect the blue field wire. Jumper that wire to ground. Again start see if it charges. If so, this checks the field / VR wiring. If it works replace VR

HOW THIS WORKS. Both the VR and one of the alternator fields receive switched ignition power through blue wires. The VR green goes to the alternator field and "sort of" controls the grounding of that green wire. So power goes to the field (light blue) through the field, out the green, and to controlled ground VIA the VR.

IF NOTHING in these tests makes sense:

Go back to alternator. Disconnect green, jumper that alternator terminal to ground. With key in run, check voltage at blue field wire WITH the wire connected. You should have near same as battery voltage. if so make certain field is drawing current. Get car into subdued lighting, repeatedly connect/ disconnect jumper. You should see a small spark, might even hear it.

Run engine, check that it charges, and battery voltage rises. If not move your meter to the alternator large output stud. While running with jumper installed, if that voltage stays low, say 12 or below, it is not charging. Replace alternator

If voltage goes up and is higher than battery say 2 volts higher than whatever battery reads, then you have some voltage drop in the charging output path

If voltage goes WAY up say 24 or higher, and battery stays low down around 12, then you have a BROKEN path in the charge line.
Thank you I’ll give it a try and get back with you
 
I took a Denso Mopar mini starter to Orielys this week to get checked, the guy played around with it in his machine, it wouldnt do any thing. I watched him. He said it was no good.
Wanted to sell me a reman for around $85.00, I said no.
On the way home I went to Advance Auto. They couldnt get it to work either. So I took it home.
Got a battery, 3 test wires, Secured the starter in my bench vice, and proceded to test, and that drive gear just jumed right out, and started to spin. So I guess they just didnt wire it correctly, and I have a good Denso/Mopar starter, I bought for $40.00 at a swap meet a week ago.
Dave
 
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