Factory ammeter

Also too, if you do decide to keep the factory amp gauge, remove the cluster and clean all of the connections GOOD. On mine, it is held in with little speed nuts. They also give it the electrical connection. I recently removed mine to repaint the plastic housing and put LEDs where the two instrument lights go. I noticed some white corrosion around the nuts that hold the amp gauge in, so I removed the gauge, cleaned everything up good and put it back together. Make sure the nuts are tight, but you don't have to be Superman. They were almost finger tight when I removed them, so it needed attention.
No way the ammeter should have a single set of speed nuts holding the gauge and wires. The factory used regular (and in most cases copper) threaded double nuts. One set of nuts held the gauge to the housing(with a special insulator washer underneath) and second set of nuts to hold the wires. As long as everything is clean and tightened properly, the system works just fine in a stock car. Now, you start adding accessories and upping the draw on the system, you'll need to make some mods.....one of which might be to bypass the ammeter. That would depend on the added load.