Help with no power??

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ALSO when you checked power "at the bulkhead" OR ANY OTHER TEST...........it is IMPORTANT that you have a load you can apply.........like the headlights.......or even the dome/ courtesy lights. This is because, with everything shut off, there is no LOAD on the bad circuit, and a bad connection can "make" long enough to cause a "good" meter reading.

Have you had the bulkhead connector apart? NO!!!!???? What are you waiting for??
Yes took bulk head connector apart. It has been replaced in the past due to ammeter melting red wire. Previous owner did wire bypass for voltage gauge.
 
Here is the easy way to fix this in 2 steps .
1) Buy all new wiring
2) Install it

Ok now that we have fixed it how about the story behind the car , equipment list and more pics ?

Mbaird that's where I am heading! New wiring during resto. i wanted to get engine started and drivable before it goes off. There are too many burnt and cut up wires under the dash.
Story is been in garage since 1983, driven in and parked.
Matching number motor V code 440 six pack, trans replaced. all original body panels, 3 rd owner triple green. At work, no access tp more photos, sorry.
 
Yes took bulk head connector apart. It has been replaced in the past due to ammeter melting red wire. Previous owner did wire bypass for voltage gauge.
In that case it may have the same problem now that caused the connection to the ammeter to melt. :(
A good reproduction harness may be the way to go, although pricey, especially for instrument panel side of the firewall.
You could also repair and restore them. Some people have done that. Lay the whole harness out on plywood or similar. Mark the connections, unwrap and then replace or splice as needed.
Either way save the old harnessed for future reference and parts. I'd have been jammed on multiple occasionals glad if I hadn't saved the orignal harness.
 
My recommendation too when it comes to repairs or restorations. Never throw anything away until the new parts are installed and working correctly!
 
New harness was fine for the first 10 or so years, then it needed some repairs and I went to the saved harness.

I'm serious about the cause of the original failure may still be there. Start with checking for shorts to ground. That's the most catastrophic.

It sounds like what ever this 'wire around' is (many ways to do this) it may have failed. Result being no battery power to the main splice.
 
Yes I agree
I believe that fix failed!

New harness was fine for the first 10 or so years, then it needed some repairs and I went to the saved harness.

I'm serious about the cause of the original failure may still be there. Start with checking for shorts to ground. That's the most catastrophic.

It sounds like what ever this 'wire around' is (many ways to do this) it may have failed. Result being no battery power to the main splice.
 
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