1971 318 build
I wanna say;
by the time you finish spending all that money on 318 cubes, you couldda had a closed-chamber, alloy-headed, near zero-deck 360, with a cam two or three sizes smaller, and end up with a 12 second street car on street tires that gets phenomenal mileage with 87E10.
But Hey, what do I know.
With a 223*cam, I drove 2.5 hours to the track, turned a 106@12.9 in full street trim. Only successful run of 4. Turned around and went 2.5 hours home.
My 367 fell together doing that, with zero tuning. near zero-deck, near 10.7, exactly 87E10..
@3650, my street weight, and 900 ft elevation, the Wallace Calculator says it takes 335 hp to do that. It was a plain-jane, flat torque, flat power, rev to the moon; Daily Driver.
But I'm not gonna say that out loud, cuz Sure as heck somebody is gonna be mean to me.
The point is this;
1) you will spend less money to get to 350hp with a 360 than you will with a 318 even if you consider having to buy a 360 core. and
2) the 360 will be gobs more fun, be able to run less gear, less stall, and haul a trailer, and
3) the 360 will spin street tires to the top of second gear ..... at least, with 3.23s and an auto.and
4) the 360 will get hands down better fuel mileage with a 223@050 HFT cam; even more with a solid
5)with 3.23s the
360 will cruise at 65=2600@ zero-slip. You can't even run 3.23s with a 350hp 318. Well you can but;
1) in first gear she will hit 60@6500 (10% slip),Way beyond the powerpeak, so think slow ET, or
2) in second ,she will hit 60@3850 (10% slip),on a 5500rpm power peak; not even up to the TorquePeak yet, so again, think slow ET.
I like Rumbles comments as to;
Your camshaft, IMO, should not only be a little bit larger but you need to grab a more aggressive lobe with as much lift as you can use on the cylinder heads flowing abilities. Look to a good solid flat tappet.
Oh! And make sure the oiling is well looked after!