WIW '72 340 'CUDA

What should I do with Shelia?

  • Restore her?

    Votes: 8 28.6%
  • Part her?

    Votes: 11 39.3%
  • Sell her to you for $1

    Votes: 10 35.7%

  • Total voters
    28
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No, unfortunately I can't do body work. I do want to try & get her running, and authenticate her #'s. I'm going to try and get her down to London next weekend.
 
No, unfortunately I can't do body work. I do want to try & get her running, and authenticate her #'s. I'm going to try and get her down to London next weekend.
IF you can not do the body work, it is a no brainer. Get it running and driving as is, and accept the fact it is a complete pos, or just sell it or part it. It is what it is.
Yes any car can be "rebuilt" with enough work and someone's $$$$$, but it is not meant to be for every car!???
Just remember for every speck of rust you see, there are 5-10 times that much more you are not seeing!!!
 
No, unfortunately I can't do body work. I do want to try & get her running, and authenticate her #'s. I'm going to try and get her down to London next weekend.
My grandpa told me one time, there is nothing you can't do, you just need to learn how to do it.
 
HOT DOG!!!!! I found the Build Sheet in the back seat back. She's a true BS23H2 car! The last four of the dash, door, and Build Sheet match-those were the only VIN #'S that I checked. And I've got Marvel Mystery Oil in seven of the eight cylinders.
 
The Cowl # matches. For the life of me, I just don't see any radiator support #'s
BangHead.gif

Do the #'s point up, or in, towards the firewall?
 
They point to the firewall, near the battery.
Honestly being a 340 4-speed car, its worth about $5K, with the rust issues.
Fixed, and everything looking good, and running good, you could sell it for 25-35K.
This is the realistic market value.
 
Fixed, and everything looking good, and running good, you could sell it for 25-35K.

costing more to fix it then that, if it was restored for a sentimental reason i can see it. but no sentimental attachment its just a parts car unless you are doing 99% of the work yourself
 
costing more to fix it then that, if it was restored for a sentimental reason i can see it. but no sentimental attachment its just a parts car unless you are doing 99% of the work yourself
I agree. It's pretty much gone. It needs way more than just some patching.
 
costing more to fix it then that, if it was restored for a sentimental reason i can see it. but no sentimental attachment its just a parts car unless you are doing 99% of the work yourself
Agreed, doing all the work besides machine work, including paint and interior will cost 20K, the cost is the same no matter if its a A, B or E body.
Actually the good point on restoring an E body is all the parts are available, A-bodys, sometimes can be challenging, and there are B body models, that not much at all is available.
 
costing more to fix it then that, if it was restored for a sentimental reason i can see it. but no sentimental attachment its just a parts car unless you are doing 99% of the work yourself

Even if you did 99% of the work yourself, you would be valuing your time at $0 for most of it. If you’ve got endless time to take on that project, then go for it. Usually folks take on a project car that wouldn’t financially make sense if the car had sentimental value.
 
Glad I was lucky enough to be able to live the dream in 1976. Rust Free '73

340, 727, 3.23 Sure-grip, 24,000 miles

Was a very happy young man at age of 20. Just finished up 2 year course of Auto Body School and ready to grab the world by the tail, and go.

Such a good time of life . . .

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Here's an update. The engine's not locked up. I didn't try a full circle because of the stupid flex fan, but she turned w/o much effort.
And here's some Build Sheet pics.
After looking @ everything, I've decided to sell her.

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Well, with the tires flat, I can't get a floor jack under her. I need to pump up a tire or two and go from there.
 
I'm trying to find out more info about the car. I'm not sure that I've been trying to sell her on this thread :thumbsup:
Does anyone know how to decide the Build Sheet?
 
I'm trying to find out more info about the car. I'm not sure that I've been trying to sell her on this thread :thumbsup:
Does anyone know how to decide the Build Sheet?

Start with Mymopar.com and use the tools on the site to decode the VIN of the car, that will tell you a lot. Then match up the results to what is on the build sheet.
 
Wow, the condition of that build sheet is amazing considering the condition of the rest of the car!

I’d trade no build sheet or a build sheet in tatters if it meant the rest of the car wouldn’t be a basket case.
 
Well, with the tires flat, I can't get a floor jack under her. I need to pump up a tire or two and go from there.

When you get it jacked up and some jack stands under it, do you know where the motor and transmission VIN pads are? Both are on the passenger side. The one for the motor is on the bottom right edge of the block, next to the block drain plug. Look in the lost and found section here, and there are pics showing what it looks like. The pad on the 4 spd with the number is a raised up place on the same side, with a flat surface. Scrape the crud off of it to be able to read the numbers. The numbers on those pads should say 2B5?4889
 
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