Rebuilt 904 w/ tf2 shifting woes...

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DentalDart

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25 pages of fun round two???

I can't quite get my shifts to feel coffee spiller mode. Am I missing something or doing something wrong?
Quick rundown - newly rebuilt 69 904 transmission. 72+ valve body w/ a new tf2 shift kit drilled to "coffee spiller mode." Stock 904 tc that was rebuilt to a 2500 stall when rebuilding transmission (rebuilt in may). Lokar transmission cable, lokar throttle cable..Fluid filled correctly... ummm what else would you like to know?

I've gone through the article multiple times about how to correctly set the lokar shifter cable.. getting a 1 to 1 shifter cable to throttle cable pull. Having the shifter bracket on the transmission pulled tight when throttle is wide open... stock shift points at 18 and 28mph...

Nothing really has done the trick. 1-2nd gear is pretty much obsolete, and you can barely feel it. Right now the 2-3rd shift feels like it is happening super early. 2nd to 3rd shift is definately harder than 1st-2nd, but it feels like its "spooling up" before actually shifting.

I feel like everything I've done, all the minor adjustments I've made have not actually made much of a difference.

Here is the slack in the line right now (I think it may be slightly to much slack currently, like it moved a touch).

Any ideas on what I should try? I usually adjust it at the cable not the little adjusting screws. Im open to anything, I'd love to have 2 hard coffee spiller shifts...

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Oh the actuator is bypassed... I think that's the name of it... and it has a 5.0 front servo lever

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You used the 5.0 lever. Without also using the Hemi wide width band, that's actually backing up.
 
Also, am I seeing that picture right? Is there about an inch space before the throttle starts pulling the cable? When the gas pedal is on the floor, where is the kickdown lever on the transmission? It should be ALL the way BACK as far as it will go.
 
You used the 5.0 lever. Without also using the Hemi wide width band, that's actually backing up.

Hemi wide width band? The transmission had a shift kit and the 5.0 lever in it before I rebuilt it with new parts and new shift kit and the shifts were much more "coffee spiller"
 
I just recently found out that there are two kickdown levers that mount to the transmission. One for the 4bbl and one for the 2bbl. One is shorter than the other. Could that be part of the issue????
 
Also, am I seeing that picture right? Is there about an inch space before the throttle starts pulling the cable? When the gas pedal is on the floor, where is the kickdown lever on the transmission? It should be ALL the way BACK as far as it will go.

Yea I've done that and it didn't have coffee spiller shifts lol. I will put it there again tomorrow and start from there again.
 
I just recently found out that there are two kickdown levers that mount to the transmission. One for the 4bbl and one for the 2bbl. One is shorter than the other. Could that be part of the issue????

I've tried 2 levers, the 904 one and the 727 lever.
 
Yea I've done that and it didn't have coffee spiller shifts lol. I will put it there again tomorrow and start from there again.

Sounds like you may have something else going on.

And yes, the 5.0 lever and the wide band are supposed to be used together. It may have the wide band on it, I cannot tell.

Have you double checked the band adjustment?
 
Sounds like you may have something else going on.

And yes, the 5.0 lever and the wide band are supposed to be used together. It may have the wide band on it, I cannot tell.

Have you double checked the band adjustment?

I am pretty sure we used a wide band on the front, and it was set to the correct adjustments. It was all rebuilt with a smart guy from FABO helping me out (directing me on exactly what to do). The setting of the shift points with the cable has been all me though... probably why it doesn't feel right :lol:
 
I am pretty sure we used a wide band on the front, and it was set to the correct adjustments. It was all rebuilt with a smart guy from FABO helping me out (directing me on exactly what to do). The setting of the shift points with the cable has been all me though... probably why it doesn't feel right :lol:

Ah yes, Tony. I keep forgetting. If he used the 5.0 lever then all else is correct, I have no doubt.
 
I don’t think it will be hard shifts with the cable that long. Not enough pressure. You can’t adjust it with the throttle at WOT because that doesn’t apply after modifying the VB. Cable KD and throttle cable changes the setup too. I suggest you take that slack out of the KD. Make sure you still have WOT.
 
Maybe your next project will be a 4spd in there can snap shift all you want.

I know right?!

Honestly though I have absolutely no desire for a 4spd in this car and my next mopar won't have a 4spd either. I love that this car is automatic, one hand on the wheel and one out the window just cruising.

My daily is manual transmission, just don't want it for the weekend mopars.
 
Ah yes, Tony. I keep forgetting. If he used the 5.0 lever then all else is correct, I have no doubt.

Yes sir, I just don't like to name drop people that have helped me out when searching for a problem. Like always if something is wrong its of my doing not his :D
 
I'm no auto trans expert, but the factory settings and recommended adjustments are all to get close to certain settings. Might not hurt to verify your pressures to ensure something internal didn't go haywire, especially since your valve body is modified. Possible a minor issue is causing a pressure loss at the wrong time? Again, I'm no expert on autos... But seems like something worth ruling out.
 
Yes sir, I just don't like to name drop people that have helped me out when searching for a problem. Like always if something is wrong its of my doing not his :D

Well in this case, we all know Tony. So it ain't gonna be HIS fault. LMAO
 
I don’t think it will be hard shifts with the cable that long. Not enough pressure. You can’t adjust it with the throttle at WOT because that doesn’t apply after modifying the VB. Cable KD and throttle cable changes the setup too. I suggest you take that slack out of the KD. Make sure you still have WOT.

To be sure, what you're saying is to take "all the slack out with the cable at WOT," and adjust from there? Or are you saying to take all the slack out without it being at WOT and start adjusting it?
 
I'm no auto trans expert, but the factory settings and recommended adjustments are all to get close to certain settings. Might not hurt to verify your pressures to ensure something internal didn't go haywire, especially since your valve body is modified. Possible a minor issue is causing a pressure loss at the wrong time? Again, I'm no expert on autos... But seems like something worth ruling out.

Like with a pressure guage attached to the threaded ports on the side of the transmission? Do I need a special pressure guage for that because of the transmission fluid?
 
Well in this case, we all know Tony. So it ain't gonna be HIS fault. LMAO

Agree. School has sucked lately, but after my test on Monday I'm clear for a couple of months. I want to drive the dart to his house to "help" him with his projects.... and by help I mean sit in the corner and don't touch anything, so I don't break anything of his :rofl: I just want to look at the shiny fancy parts on his ridiculously nice cars.
 
Agree. School has sucked lately, but after my test on Monday I'm clear for a couple of months. I want to drive the dart to his house to "help" him with his projects.... and by help I mean sit in the corner and don't touch anything, so I don't break anything of his :rofl: I just want to look at the shiny fancy parts on his ridiculously nice cars.

You ain't the only one. lol
 
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