170/6 build plus questions!

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easymotorspo said:
From what I have learned through this process, everything (170 wise) revolves around the lift on the cam when you mill the head such as I have. Do to the fact that my cam is stock, I shouldn’t have a issue with valve/piston issues. According to the calculations I should have a bump up in compression, increase in hp/tq, and everyone says a little more “seat of the pants” fun. Although I will admit that the majority of modifications, motor & chassis wise, is because I love to tinker & enjoy doing it with my kids. (16,15 & 8).
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The small stock cam will not bleed off much compression. Better check your calculations, your static and dynamic compression may be so high that your engine may have pre ignition/pinging issues.
 
easymotorspo said:
Car: 1968 Plymouth Valiant 100, 170/6, 3 on tree, 3.23 sure grip, frame tied, swaybars front & rear, PST bushings, sector support kit and needle bearing idler arm, 11/16 tie rod ends and adjusters, fast ratio manual steering, manual brakes, 15x7 (4.5 bbp) steel wheels, electronic ignition, flowkooler waterpump, 180° thermostat, 2.5 TTI mandrel bent exhaust with super turbo nuffler, alternator switched to driverside, & Mercedes Benz thermostatic clutch fan.

Driving: around town, Blue Ridge Parkway cruising, (no racing or pushing hard)

Project: getting ready to put a Peanut Head ( rebuilt, polished, ported, stock size back cut valves), milled .100, (piston to valve and piston clearances checked)port matched to Super Six intake & professional built BBD Carb.

Question: anyone put a Super six system on a 170? Results?

Question: I have a split exhaust manifold, looking much like Dutra Duals, and a Y pipe. Should I put this system on and plumb it into 2.5 exhuast OR keep my factor exhaust manifold with full 2.5 TTI mandrel bent exhaust?

(I realize all answers to questions are opinions)
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I had a 170 with the Super Six 2 barrel set up, 2 1/4 exhaust, head milled .06, 4 speed, and the MP 268 cam. Loved the combination. I would not bother with duals.
 
The 170 is considered a "zero" deck motor, however the deck clearance is usually .010-.020 down in the hole. The stock gasket was about .022, whereas the replacement gaskets are usually .010-.020 thicker. If the actual CR comes out to less then 9.0-1 (which I think it will) there shouldn't be a problem, that can't be solved with a little more octane, or distributor recurve.
I have a 170 that is at zero deck, with the steel shim gasket, that is a true 9.5 CR, with a mild cam, and it was a bear to tune the ping out, on mid grade fuel.
PS: Don't remember how much the head was milled
Also running stock exhaust manifold, and 2 1/4 inch to the back, and a 1 bbl Holley economiser carb
 
Charrlie_S said:
The 170 is considered a "zero" deck motor, however the deck clearance is usually .010-.020 down in the hole. The stock gasket was about .022, whereas the replacement gaskets are usually .010-.020 thicker. If the actual CR comes out to less then 9.0-1 (which I think it will) there shouldn't be a problem, that can't be solved with a little more octane, or distributor recurve.
I have a 170 that is at zero deck, with the steel shim gasket, that is a true 9.5 CR, with a mild cam, and it was a bear to tune the ping out, on mid grade fuel.
PS: Don't remember how much the head was milled
Also running stock exhaust manifold, and 2 1/4 inch to the back, and a 1 bbl Holley economiser carb
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Thanks Charlie! This whole thing was built after talking at length with you over time. I remember us talking about the thickness of gaskets, etc. By the way how is your wife? Are you able to race any? Thanks for all your help!
 
66fs said:
I had a 170 with the Super Six 2 barrel set up, 2 1/4 exhaust, head milled .06, 4 speed, and the MP 268 cam. Loved the combination. I would not bother with duals.
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Thanks, I am thinking I may just port/polish the factory manifold. My goal isn’t a race car put a fun curvy road toy...
 
my68barracuda said:
The small stock cam will not bleed off much compression. Better check your calculations, your static and dynamic compression may be so high that your engine may have pre ignition/pinging issues.
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Thanks. I have run all the numbers up, down and side to side! Lol. After talking at length with Charlie S, among others, I believe it will work close, but should be ok.
 
easymotorspo said:
Thanks Charlie! This whole thing was built after talking at length with you over time. I remember us talking about the thickness of gaskets, etc. By the way how is your wife? Are you able to race any? Thanks for all your help!
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Wife is slowly getting worse. No racing this year. Have to wait and see about next year.
 
easymotorspo said:
Thanks, I am thinking I may just port/polish the factory manifold. My goal isn’t a race car put a fun curvy road toy...
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After your done with the exhaust manifold, maybe Jet Hot ceramic coating inside and out. Not only does the 2 barrel intake and carb give you more power, you get better mpg also. I would get high 20's cruising on the highway when I was done.
 
easymotorspo said:
Thanks. I have run all the numbers up, down and side to side! Lol. After talking at length with Charlie S, among others, I believe it will work close, but should be ok.
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Charlie would know, he has built and raced several 170’s I was just saying be careful.
 
easymotorspo said:
According to the calculations I should have a bump up in compression, increase in hp/tq, and everyone says a little more “seat of the pants” fun.
Click to expand...

Mine is stone stock, with the exception of a Hoppy recurved reman distributor and a Freddie Hinton hogged out exhaust manifold and I gotta say I think the only way I could have any more fun drivin it is if I busted a nut. It'll even chirp the tires a little takin off if I stab her hard. That's some 'tude for a 170.
 
my68barracuda said:
Charlie would know, he has built and raced several 170’s I was just saying be careful.
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Yeah his nitrous car hauls the mail. I've seen it up close and personal. .....and he wasn't runnin his badass race tune that day either. lol
 
RustyRatRod said:
Mine is stone stock, with the exception of a Hoppy recurved reman distributor and a Freddie Hinton hogged out exhaust manifold and I gotta say I think the only way I could have any more fun drivin it is if I busted a nut. It'll even chirp the tires a little takin off if I stab her hard. That's some 'tude for a 170.
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Rusty when you mentioned the distributor, I have a Pertronx one. Will that do?
 
easymotorspo said:
Rusty when you mentioned the distributor, I have a Pertronx one. Will that do?
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I'm sure it will. You still need to map the curve on it though so you know what you have. I don't think Pertronix makes an entire unit for the slant six, so it's probably a stock distributor with an electronic conversion. At least I have not seen a complete distributor from Pertronix for the slant......but that means nothing. LOL
 
RustyRatRod said:
I'm sure it will. You still need to map the curve on it though so you know what you have. I don't think Pertronix makes an entire unit for the slant six, so it's probably a stock distributor with an electronic conversion. At least I have not seen a complete distributor from Pertronix for the slant......but that means nothing. LOL
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No your right!! It's a insert into a stock distributor. I have looked a converting over to a mopar electronic ignition, or the hei idea(as described on slantsix.org) but after talking with Charlie S, if it works- leave it be..now i am researching what NGK spark plugs to use with the higher compression & peanut head.
PS: you still interested in my tti headpipe?
 
easymotorspo said:
No your right!! It's a insert into a stock distributor. I have looked a converting over to a mopar electronic ignition, or the hei idea(as described on slantsix.org) but after talking with Charlie S, if it works- leave it be..now i am researching what NGK spark plugs to use with the higher compression & peanut head.
PS: you still interested in my tti headpipe?
Click to expand...

If you're not going to use it, sure.
 
easymotorspo said:
Car: 1968 Plymouth Valiant 100, 170/6, 3 on tree, 3.23 sure grip, frame tied, swaybars front & rear, PST bushings, sector support kit and needle bearing idler arm, 11/16 tie rod ends and adjusters, fast ratio manual steering, manual brakes, 15x7 (4.5 bbp) steel wheels, electronic ignition, flowkooler waterpump, 180° thermostat, 2.5 TTI mandrel bent exhaust with super turbo nuffler, alternator switched to driverside, & Mercedes Benz thermostatic clutch fan.

Driving: around town, Blue Ridge Parkway cruising, (no racing or pushing hard)

Project: getting ready to put a Peanut Head ( rebuilt, polished, ported, stock size back cut valves), milled .100, (piston to valve and piston clearances checked)port matched to Super Six intake & professional built BBD Carb.

Question: anyone put a Super six system on a 170? Results?

Question: I have a split exhaust manifold, looking much like Dutra Duals, and a Y pipe. Should I put this system on and plumb it into 2.5 exhuast OR keep my factor exhaust manifold with full 2.5 TTI mandrel bent exhaust?

(I realize all answers to questions are opinions)
Click to expand...
Actually you should just part the car out and sell me the sure grip

!:lol:
 
Road/Rage said:
Actually thats exactly what im looking for!
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I really lucked out on that. Had to go get my mom from Connecticut. (We live in NC) put a request in the wanted section, a member responded he had the whole rear assembly with 3.23 SG. He explained he lived in CT! One town from my mom! We coordinated pickup, then covid hit. He held on to it for 5 months, no down payment to hold. Can't thank him enough
 
easymotorspo said:
I really lucked out on that. Had to go get my mom from Connecticut. (We live in NC) put a request in the wanted section, a member responded he had the whole rear assembly with 3.23 SG. He explained he lived in CT! One town from my mom! We coordinated pickup, then covid hit. He held on to it for 5 months, no down payment to hold. Can't thank him enough
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They are REALLY a tough piece to find. People think "HOT DAMN" when they find even a worn out one, but then quickly realize they are pretty much worthless because no one makes parts to rebuild them. So if you have a good one, you got somethin!
 
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