Stinkin autocorrect!
Fixed
Operation Torquey-Pig
- Thread starter MrJLR
- Start date
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Fixed
If they are not put together correctly, yes.
You could probably do really well with a custom cam, but this would work nicely, especially if you could add some 1.6:1 intake rockers.
Lunati Voodoo Camshafts 20200711
The 391 stroker I’ve been party to would probably make better use one of these instead of the comp XE274H it presently has. But It’s still no slouch in a porky 4x4, though.
Lunati Voodoo Camshafts 20200711
The 391 stroker I’ve been party to would probably make better use one of these instead of the comp XE274H it presently has. But It’s still no slouch in a porky 4x4, though.
You’re going to find that the most reliable hydraulic roller link bar lifters are Crane and Crower. But, if your wanting to go mechanical Roller, then the BAM are what you’re going to want. But there’s a caveat involved, too. There aren’t any shelf variety mechanical roller cams that could be considered “small” on the .050 and advertised duration figures. This one probably would come closest to what you’re looking for in a solid roller
COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts 20-743-9
But you’d really be better off getting one custom ground.
COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts 20-743-9
But you’d really be better off getting one custom ground.
What about drilling and tapping the block to accept a spider plate from a later model roller cam block to hold the lifters in place?
Jeff
Jeff
Not a bad idea, it is just a simple tin plate that keeps the lifters from turning and in place.
Can buy stock replacement aftermarket roller lifters for like 10.00 each to go with that mopar 318 spider plate. That is only 80 some odd dollars for roller lifters plus shipping.
Just want to make sure the roller lifters stand proper in the LA lifter bores with the roller cam in there.
Stock replacement '90 318 Roller Engine Pushrods, Oil hole through the pushrod oiling. They are in short supply right now at Rock, but the part numbers are there to buy elsewhere.
I like this thinking, this is what Hot Rodding is all about.
There’s some high performing stock type lifters for around $17 each. The later model block has bosses cast into the valley to accept 3/8-1/3 inch of thread. It may be possible to get the valley spot faced and then have some weld nuts attached with some powder flow welding. I think a better option may be riv-nuts, but the iron is pretty thin in that part of the valley. AFAIK, putting bosses for the cam retainer plate in a conventional block is mostly uncharted territory. I’ll have to look later today in my stash to see what might be possible. I think drill through the top after marking with a retainer plate and drilling, spot face the cam tunnel side. Run a bolt through from the cam tunnel and put a Belleville washer and nut on top. Pre-heat and Ni-Rod or gas weld the Belleville washer in place. The washers would have to be spot faced to equal height. To install the rib nuts, you’d have to use a piece of high strength all thread inside of a piece of DOM carbon tube because the rib-nut tool won’t fit in the bottom. Also, the top of the lifter bosses are all going to have to be milled to the same height for the dog bone retainers. While possible, once you look at getting all this done by someone who knows what they’re doing with a knee mill big enough to clamp an engine block into and fo this it may not exactly be what one would call “practical”...
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The lifter bores are taller on the roller blocks as well.
The upgraded lifters you’re going to want with a fast rate cam with big springs.
Crane Cams 70530-16 Hyd. Roller Lifters O.E. design - SBM Magnum
Crane Cams 70530-16 Hyd. Roller Lifters O.E. design - SBM Magnum
Instead of drilling all those holes and worrying about all that stuff how about if you just use the straps like the lifter Valley windage tray uses to hold it down.
Once you look at all the work involved, it’s probably less costly to with a high quality link bar lifter. A lot of people in the “internet world” claim to have excellent service from the crane units. I would say they better given the initial investment is twice the outlay of the other brands. But I do know at least one person that has had trouble with the comp hydraulic link bar lifters.
Crane Hydraulic Roller Lifters 69532-2
Crane Hydraulic Roller Lifters 69532-2
That is what I was wondering about. I see the lifter bores are not only taller for the roller lifters but they also have extra Beef added around the top for more side stress strength for the taller standing roller lifter.
Oh well, fun to think about anyway. I would think a slow turning torquey engine would be fine with a flat tappet hydraulic cam. Can use the simple good working mopar valve train too.
11:1 cr hydraulic 340 cammed '72 340 with factory valve train. This will have some torque, lol . . Ran out real nice on the engine run stand, although a good amount of money was spent on parts and machine work. Simple layout in the end.
I would think the roller cam setups would be more for a high rpm engine.
I’m all for easier, do you care to elaborate? Are you referring to the lifter guide retainer plate (spider) as “the lifter valley windage tray”? I think the taller cam bosses on the roller blocks may be the bigger pitfall to overcome here. It may require the spacing for the lifter guides in order for everything to match up for the retainer plate to hold the guide bars in place.
RAMM
Well-Known Member
This is not a simple mod to implement due to the lifter "yokes" . The tops of the lifter bosses are machined in a very specific shape that allows the lifter yokes to nest inside of them. This is way more involved than driling and tapping a few holes for a tin retainer plate. I'd save my pennies for the Crane retro-fits . J.Rob
JDMopar
Well-Known Member
If I put a hydraulic roller in my next motor, I am more than likely gonna use Morel lifters. They don't come too far out of the lifter bores and cause oiling problems like some other brands supposedly do. Scroll down thru the products tab, and the 5321's are SBM hyd rollers.
https://morellifters.com/
https://morellifters.com/
gzig5
Well-Known Member
How much lift at the lobe will the stock Magnum system live with either with the stock lifters or those upgraded Crane stock style?
.525 seems to be the limit or so everyone says.
Put this in it. Then you'll have a sho nuff Torquey Pig.
Howards Cams Steel Billet Mechanical Roller Camshafts 711213-10
Howards Cams Steel Billet Mechanical Roller Camshafts 711213-10
I'm taking about using this hold down idea to hold the spider in place.
By the way it might not be a bad idea to Bush the lifter bores.
That's for oiling not to hold the lifters in.
Hey pay attention to what I said.
I said to apply the idea behind holding this tray down.
Still talking about a LA block I bet. The stock lifters that need the spider won't work in the LA blocks from what i understand. They stick out out of the lifter bores too far and blow oil out all over. The retro lifters don't. Try them if you like.
Just run a solid roller. You won't have to mess around with drilling anything.
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