finally Stopped oil leak

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jdsduster

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1973 duster 408,pulled pan twice to replace oil pan gasket,with headers,with engine in the car,what a nightmare,if you ever did it,you know what i went through.finally pulled engine,replaced rear seal with the 2 piece orange one.also used the 1 piece oil pan gasket,for a magnum,and cut the front off and used the la front seal.it worked awsome,not a drip anywhere.i have fought this for quite a while now.im so glad it is finally leak free.never again will i try to change a oil pan gasket,while engine is still in the car,at least,not with headers
 
wow a one piece oil pan gasket, modified some. would have never thought about that, thanks. I have put studs in the oil pan rail to help hold the gaskets in place. My only leak is the rear seal. drips a little.
 
Good deal.
What about this seal?
Is it the Viton?
A reputable shop replaced the rear main on my BB 383 in the car, with the two piece Viton, twice, and it still leaks! Even tried the billet cap most recently.
The crank surface looked solid, and seal was installed correctly.
This is the 2nd seal after a fresh rebuild (stock Felpro seal from a different engine builder) leaked.
Frustrating.
Joe
 
Joey4speed said:
Good deal.
What about this seal?
Is it the Viton?
A reputable shop replaced the rear main on my BB 383 in the car, with the two piece Viton, twice, and it still leaks! Even tried the billet cap most recently.
The crank surface looked solid, and seal was installed correctly.
This is the 2nd seal after a fresh rebuild (stock Felpro seal from a different engine builder) leaked.
Frustrating.
Joe
Click to expand...
Was it line honed?
 
it was the viton,it was not line honed.i used the magnum 1 piece oil pan gasket,,cut the front off and used the front from a la oil pan with a little black silicon where they overlap.this gasket will not let you overtorque it .
 
just did the same exact thing with motor in car Doug's headers I attached the gaskets to the pan first used RTV where needed - wood stir sticks - wax paper - bolts and nuts let set for 24 hours no leaks OH one small difference I'm using the Hemi Denny "HDK" stuff
 
You can actually use the whole magnum one piece gasket on an LA 360. You just need to cut the parts of an LA front seal to fix the gaps where the little rubber nubs hold the front seal in.
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
Was it line honed?
Click to expand...
No, I don't think it was.
Last year, I was trying to get the whole car back together, and he did a quick rebuild on the engine, the emphasis was on the heads, especially since they looked sludged. A quick block clean up, bearings and cam etc.
There was no leak before.
Oh well.
 
I am curious was what did you use as a gasket? What part number? I would like to do some more research on this, thanks
 
Steven190,
Are you referring to the rear main Viton rubber seal mentioned?
Or JDsDuster oil pan gasket?
 
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@MOPAROFFICIAL If you have a big block line honed, should you cut the seal cap and hone it also? I've never thought of that since I've never rebuilt a big block, and wondered if that was the reason you questioned the line hone for Joey's motor?
 
JDMopar said:
@MOPAROFFICIAL If you have a big block line honed, should you cut the seal cap and hone it also? I've never thought of that since I've never rebuilt a big block, and wondered if that was the reason you questioned the line hone for Joey's motor?
Click to expand...
Many cut the caps and assume the seal cap has enough interference to compansate for the .0015 or so off the saddles.
Different strokes of the line hone for different folks. Depends on who line hones it I guess. But if it goes up into the block..there will be LESS interference at the lower contact point of the seal and more probability of a leak.
 
Just in case you wind up with this question, The Viton rear seals have a big metal rod in them and are not made to be trimmed. I went through that on mine. Called the manufacturer about it. The seals are not sensitive to the amount of material removed in a line bore. They are made to be installed the way they are made.
 
For the member with ththe constant leak...you could take and lightly surface the seal cap.

.001, wouldn't take much, at that lil amount it wouldn't throw it off angle.
 
Mike69cuda said:
Just in case you wind up with this question, The Viton rear seals have a big metal rod in them and are not made to be trimmed. I went through that on mine. Called the manufacturer about it. The seals are not sensitive to the amount of material removed in a line bore. They are made to be installed the way they are made.
Click to expand...
If you do ..you use a belt sander. Paint pen mark it white just before the edge leaving black the amount you would remove. That's how I'd approach that venture.
Light amount of sealer on ends and all over the side wedge insert thingers. Lol
 
i got the idea from magnum swaps web page.the only silicone i used was a dab where the rails meet the front
 
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