Amp guage maxed out.
@Richie lets break this down into smaller pieces.
It happened on installation while at the shop.
What was installed at the shop?
Is this a '69 ?
I'm looking at the photos and like Del said it looks like a '70 up alternator and regulator, which is fine, but the wire colors on the voltage regulator don't look like they match.
On a '70 up type regulation, the wires on the alternator field terminals should connect to the regulator. Chrysler used blue and dark green for those wires.
We also see the regulator is also attached with just one screw, which is screwy.
OK thanks for pics. Remove both push on wires from the alternator. Take a meter and check both field terminals at the alternator to ground. They should be OPEN that is infinite. I suspect the green one is shorted to ground. What you have there is a conversion from the 69/ earlier system to the 70/ later VR which is called "Isolated field"
Do this check.
Set the meter to Ohms. Engine off, key off.
Place one probe on the ground. Alternator housing will work.
Place the other probe on terminal.
Then check the other terminal.
If the alternator's field circuit checks out OK (not shorted to ground), then reconnect the wires and start the engine.
Set the meter to DC Voltage. Very Important.
Measure voltage to ground at
the battery positive post.
the alternator's output stud
And read the voltmeter in the car
Do this both at slow idle and with the rpms up to 1250.
your title says "Amp gauge maxed out" now you are quoting voltages. if you AMP gauge is pinned to the right there is a lot of charging going on. If the voltage is 14.5 the voltage regulator is doing its job but still do as 67Dart273 mentioned about removing wires and testing.
Yes. Please clarify what has been done to the car.
Voltage readings are different than charge readings.
Is there both an ammeter and a voltmeter inside?
Does the voltmeter only go on when the key is on?
