Stripped bolt on firewall for Voltage Reg.

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Stumpy

Stumpy

FABO Gold Member
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Had a bit of time so I worked on fixing the 65 Dart’s energetic amp meter. I replaced the old VR with a solid state which seems to have fixed the problem (electronic ignition orange box) but uncovered another problem. Someone stripped out one of the bolts connecting the VR to the firewall. I replaced it with a washer and screw for a temp fix but I’d like to fix it right. Considering that the VR needs to be well-grounded, Bondo or JB Weld isn’t going to cut it. What do people suggest for a more permanent fix? I’d like to keep it as stock as practical. Suggestions?
 
I have wondered that same thing. I assume the only thing to do is weld the hole up a bit.
Something else you could do is weld a nut on the backside.

Looking forward to other's solutions
 
Dana67Dart said:
I have wondered that same thing. I assume the only thing to do is weld the hole up a bit.
Something else you could do is weld a nut on the backside.

Looking forward to other's solutions
Click to expand...

Welding it closed and re-drilling seemed the best solution to me. Easier than getting to the back of the firewall to weld a nut. I’m an idiot about welding so I have no idea if it would be still a good ground.
 
Stumpy said:
Had a bit of time so I worked on fixing the 65 Dart’s energetic amp meter. I replaced the old VR with a solid state which seems to have fixed the problem (electronic ignition orange box) but uncovered another problem. Someone stripped out one of the bolts connecting the VR to the firewall. I replaced it with a washer and screw for a temp fix but I’d like to fix it right. Considering that the VR needs to be well-grounded, Bondo or JB Weld isn’t going to cut it. What do people suggest for a more permanent fix? I’d like to keep it as stock as practical. Suggestions?
Click to expand...
I welded mine up. Ground it down. Re-drilled.
I considered some kind of a nut plate, or weld nut, maybe? Nah. Weld it.
 
If you can see the screw hole from inside, hammer the edges of hole closed with punch. Then the same size screw will now cut the threads tight. Or use next larger screw.
 
Drill a couple new holes just a half inch to one side or the other. You can use a bigger screw too. Or you can go whole hog and install
nut-serts for a permanent fix. Whatever you do don't let that electronic voltage regulator have a bad ground. You boil the battery and do a lot of damage.
 
I found a fastener that is like a large head pop-rivet, but with 1/4 nc screw thread, works perfect.
It also brings to mind some drywall picture hardware, with a flat washer and spreader that inserts into a hole in drywall.
Hope it helps .
 
I got rid of mine, went internal, but when I had it, and the same issue, I put a larger self tapper in there.
I also grounded it to a ground hub I have next to the battery hidden on the inside of the radiator support.
 
toolmanmike said:
Drill a couple new holes just a half inch to one side or the other. You can use a bigger screw too. Or you can go whole hog and install
nut-serts for a permanent fix. Whatever you do don't let that electronic voltage regulator have a bad ground. You boil the battery and do a lot of damage.
Click to expand...

I like the idea of moving it a bit. I can clear the paint for the new holes for the ground, and patch the old holes. I don’t know why I didn’t think about doing that. Simple and works. That’s why this place is great.
 
A fast and cheap way to fix this is to stick some strands of copper wire in the hole, and just insert the screw. Just strip some insulation and unwind the strands, and stick it in the hole. It effectively makes the hole smaller, conducts the ground well, and can be trimmed up so it isn't seen. I always would mean to go back and do a better job, but every time I did this, it was fixed for good.
 
S'cuder said:
A fast and cheap way to fix this is to stick some strands of copper wire in the hole, and just insert the screw. Just strip some insulation and unwind the strands, and stick it in the hole. It effectively makes the hole smaller, conducts the ground well, and can be trimmed up so it isn't seen. I always would mean to go back and do a better job, but every time I did this, it was fixed for good.
Click to expand...

Even better. What a great fix.
 
Thanks for all your help. Here’s a pic of what you are helping.

04F4B675-FEA4-4EF7-BAC1-9B851E7D22D9.jpeg
 
Stumpy said:
Even better. What a great fix.
Click to expand...

My grandfather taught me that 40 years ago. I was trying to replace the regulator on my Super Bee. He said "Here's what we did at the service station." He owned one from 1932-1955.

Shillington Service_001.jpg
 
Hey Stumpy! First time seeing your screen name. Brings back memories from a long time ago. When I was 16 years old I met a guy in my hometown named Stumpy. He had a lot of health problems but he was cool as hell. Super short, walked with a limp and had that "hunchback" thing going on. Always had a joint of Columbian in his mouth!!! RIP Stumpy from Waynesboro PA!!

Welcome to FABO Stumpy from Washington !!
 
66fyssh said:
Hey Stumpy! First time seeing your screen name. Brings back memories from a long time ago. When I was 16 years old I met a guy in my hometown named Stumpy. He had a lot of health problems but he was cool as hell. Super short, walked with a limp and had that "hunchback" thing going on. Always had a joint of Columbian in his mouth!!! RIP Stumpy from Waynesboro PA!!

Welcome to FABO Stumpy from Washington !!
Click to expand...

Well thank you for the welcome. I got the nickname from when I was sailing. I’m short and not so cool, at least in my opinion. No limp and health problems except for usual 50s stuff and quit smoking pot a decade ago. But the other Stumpy sounds like a fun character.
 
I found a pretty decent quality nutsert or threadsert for the firewall ground connection. I'll have to find my notes. The thing to balance is risk of spinning free vs. cost of installation mandrel.
 
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Found my notes - stuck in Carrol Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners

Audel - Stanley Engineering
Nutsert® breaks into two halves during installation. The bottom half swages the top half.
TSN® Thin sheet nutsert expands the tip into a bubble.

AVK
A-T Series. Knurled insert that swages the tip (similar to Nutsert) Best for minimal protrusion in the back.
A-L Series Knurled expanding insert
A-K Series Knurled expanding insert with reduced head
made in the USA

Marson
Klik Rivet Nuts

I bought the AVK 'expendable' tool AAT916 and a small bag of the AK series for 1/4-20 from Zoro.

upload_2020-10-15_8-37-49.png


upload_2020-10-15_8-38-45.png


upload_2020-10-15_8-47-34.png
 
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