Echlin #VC-1810 advance can or equilivant

Ok so my post yesterday got shut down from Ignition section. Wanted section was suggested.
So just an update if anyone knows if this is still availible.
FBO has one for $70 where as the Eclin was less than half the cost.
I know there are cans availible but they don't react well with low vacuum engines.
Seee description from FBO.

FBO Ignition Systems

FYI look for a adjustable can, you can set where it starts to react. What is the application? Or a pic is great tons of differences in the amount it will advance.

Ok, well I just got a Factory RB Electronic Reman stock with adjustable can. # on can is 8.5

I'm going to change spring, add limiter plate. Thinking 16 - 18 initail /34 total / then Vac can around 45-50 total to start with.

8.5 on the arm, is 17* on the damper. That is the max of the design. You add that, to whatever timing you have at cruise-rpm.
So if you are cruising on full distributor timing then;
34 + 17=51 and ; That'll get you close.
I think you know all this.
But did you also know that you can remove material off the V-can stops, to make your 17* can into about 22/24 before it bottoms inside the housing? So that could total up to;
34 + 24=58*
It's a lil tricky cutting the stops, but very doable.

I cruise at 65=2240 in od and so getting cruise timing is difficult. To get me there, I use an old Jacob's dash-mounted, electronic dial-back, timing delay box with an adjustable range of 15 degrees.

AJ/FormS said:

34 + 24=58*

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Wouldn't that be too much ? The reason I don't use it now as it is Pinging.
I don't know as much as you think but wouldn't I need less travel say 34 + 12 ? That vac can is my weakest link on the subject . I read 50 max with can but also read that Bigger motors want more ? Motor is a 10-1 500 stroker with Eddy heads.

I don't know anything about BBs
Every engine is different.
With alloy heads, and just 10/1 Scr,
I find it very interesting that, in Cruise Mode, or at Part Throttle, (which is where the the system is designed to work); you could get detonation at all.


I had an Eddie-headed 10.7, 367 cuber, with a 223/230/110 cam, that;
At about 2800, liked up to 60* to cruise with, and made phenomenal fuel mileage there.
That cam dropped lobes and I replaced it with a 230/237/110 cam. This new combo cannot even come close to the former numbers. I cruise it with an overdrive now, at 65=2240, and the cruise-timing is not there anymore ; just about 52* total with the dial back at 9retard/6advance, at 2240. I run this engine on 87E10 full-time, and the all-in WOT Power-Timing has been delayed to 3400, which is 25mph in first gear, with tires not spinning. After that,at WOT she runs on 32/34 full Power-Timing.
My Vcan is on the sparkport.
I run the Dial back at 9R/6A, because;
I have a manual trans, and the Idle-Timing is 14*. When I retard the timing with the DB, the timing drops to 5* and the Idle-speed to 550 in gear, without changing the transfer slot synchronization. At 550 in gear the roadspeed is slow enough to parade in, 4mph. But with the T-slot sync'ed up, the engine takes throttle right away without any tip-in woes.
The 6Advance is good on a cold engine to idle it up, again without upsetting the T-slot sync. So I get good drive-away manners. After two or three minutes, I dial the extra advance out, unless I am in Cruise-Mode.

But here's the thing; there have been occasions where I have forgotten to dial the timing OUT when I reached my destination. And so, it has run full-time with the extra 6 degrees timing, and I never noticed it, until it idled down, with a faster than usual idle-speed. Otherwise, the engine never made a peep.

Actually 10:8 to one. My 340 is 10to1 . I have a MSD 8680 Timing controller with Dial in ashtray with an MSD 6A Box. It failed 2 months in. I wired my stock back in. Msd fixed it so I am going to rewire harness for both so if it fails I wont be stranded. I will mess around with the can but also increase or retard a little on the hyway with the dial to see what she likes. Thanks for the info .

How I determined what Cruise-Timing my 367 liked, was to drive on a flat, hard, level road, at a fixed throttle opening, NOT cruise controlled. Then,while driving I cranked cruise timing out of it. If the car slowed down I put the timing back in, and after it had recovered, I cranked some timing in. When the car picked up MPH, I knew I was on the right track.
If the road was long enough and level enough, or next time out, I added more cruise timing. I had to be consistent tho, always using the same stretch of road, and always with a fully warmed up engine, and usually in both directions, and on calm-wind days.
When I got really close, there was a plateau of about 4 to 6 degrees, with little or no change. I kept looking on that plateau for two summers, but improvement was hard to prove. In the end I ran on the bottom of the plateau, which I measured as 56*@60mph in direct gear, which was 2650 with 3.55s. And since then, 2004 or so, it's always been there.
With the overdrive now; 60=2070/65=2240, so she gets a lil less, probably about 51*@60 mph. My cylinder pressure is 177 to 180.

Kendog 170 said:

I am going to rewire harness for both so if it fails I wont be stranded

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I did that too for awhile. But my Jacob's Amp, in the DB device seems to be holding up fine.

Kendog 170 said:

Actually 10:8 to one. My 340 is 10to1 . I have a MSD 8680 Timing controller with Dial in ashtray with an MSD 6A Box. It failed 2 months in. I wired my stock back in. Msd fixed it so I am going to rewire harness for both so if it fails I wont be stranded. I will mess around with the can but also increase or retard a little on the hyway with the dial to see what she likes. Thanks for the info .

Click to expand...

Go to the "How To" section. In the post I did about adjusting vacuum advance there is a page from the Direct Connection instruction that will get you in the ballpark.
Then to get an idea about the shape for a high performance big block mechanical advance, do a search for where I've posted a graph of the timing specs for a '67 440 Hi-po package.
if you cant find it, send me a PM and I'll dig it up.

hey kendog
I'm going to repost here
This is from the '67 Plymouth Shop manual. You can ignore the CAP timing.
Initial timing of 12.5*BTDC was for everyday use in most conditions. Techs were expected to adjust slightly for local fuel, elevation, etc.



This table from the DC instructions is for their electronic distributor which I think they assumed won't advance much above 3000 rpm. In all cases they couldn't know what the idle timing requirements would be for different hot rods, so they spec'd the 2800 rpm timing and let the rest of the timing end up wherever it ended up.


Anything that decreases burn time such as increased the compression will reduce timing needs.
Works both ways. So a cam with a lot of overlap will kill effective compression at ilde speeds, ergo more initial needed.

This is great! Thanks