65 Dart Horn Problems

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When you say the retaining ring is also the turn signal canceller that makes me think there must be a specific alignment of the wheel; you'd need to put the wheel on in a certain orientation to the front wheels or the turn signal switch. Is that true? I have been putting the wheel on with no regard to aligning it in any way.
 
Yes, to both your questions. The steering wheel and Steering shaft are indexed, or so I remember, and should only go on one way. With the front wheels straight ahead, typically that is with one of the steering wheels spokes pointed down at the 6:eek:clock position. The looped, round steel retaining ring should be positioned so that the vertical leg (not the looped portion against the horn retaining ring) ends up in front of the turn signal cancelling cam roughly aligned with it's center and/or the turn signal lever arm screw. Mis-alignment hurts/damages nothing, has no effect on horn function, it just makes the self cancelling mechanism cancel or not at odd places.
 
Ok, any tips on: 1. how to remove and replace the retaining ring and 2. what to use as insulating material/goo?
 
I've tried many things to remove that ring and like external snap ring pliers but they have to be of a heavy duty variety. anything wedged in the opening works. you don't have to open it up much for it to come off. Main thing is to not damage the horn contact ring which is easy to do. Others reading this may be able to offer better suggestions.
For insulating material I've used, plain old silicone, a thin leather disk, but prefer bathroom caulking. Main thing is whatever you use can't be electrically conductive. If using silicone you have to be careful to not squeeze it all out to the point the metal parts touch when reassembling. Let it dry thoroughly.
 
So with a multimeter couldn't I check for continuity between the horn contact ring and the top of the wheel? Maybe it's a given but I want to make sure that's the problem before I try removing the ring or buying a new steering wheel.
 
@valiantpatrol you have been very patient and so helpful through this I really appreciate it. That said, I wait for the weekend so I can take the Dart out and drive it, so I may put this project on hold, since the weather is supposed to cool down to the nineties this weekend! I would like to have a horn so I can honk back at the people who honk and give me the thumbs up.
 
I tested the horn contact plate and found it has continuity with the top side of the wheel so it definitely needs to be removed and re-caulked. But, after looking at the retaining ring I really don't think there's any way I'm going to be able to remove and reinstall it. I'm sure another steering wheel would be pricey but I'll just keep my eyes open for one.
 
I would not be so quick to give up. It's not horribly difficult. Fixing yours is but far the more cost effective way to repair. Plus if you do find another wheel, given it's age, it have the very same problem.
 
I don't know anyone who I could take it to who could do the job. I'll think about it and look around maybe for a local machine shop.
 
This is the backside of my steering wheel. I need to remove the ring (B) without damaging the horn contact plate (A). Do you know where I can get THE tool made for this? I'm in San Bernardino if you know a guy who can do it.
Thanks,
Vance

Horn Plate.jpg
 
This is the backside of my steering wheel. I need to remove the ring (B) without damaging the horn contact plate (A). Do you know where I can get THE tool made for this? I'm in San Bernardino if you know a guy who can do it.
Thanks,
Vance

View attachment 1715615722


Hi VanceC

You got me curious LOL !

Why do you need that ring removed ? I always thought its primary function was to operate the turn signal cancellation switch.
 
This is the backside of my steering wheel. I need to remove the ring (B) without damaging the horn contact plate (A). Do you know where I can get THE tool made for this? I'm in San Bernardino if you know a guy who can do it.
Thanks,
Vance

View attachment 1715615722
I am not finding anything in the service manual.
 
With help from guys on this forum I traced my horn blowing constantly is due to the insulating goo that's supposed to isolate the horn contact plate is degraded/defective allowing continuity between the plate and the ring. I need to remove the plate and re-caulk it.
 
With help from guys on this forum I traced my horn blowing constantly is due to the insulating goo that's supposed to isolate the horn contact plate is degraded/defective allowing continuity between the plate and the ring. I need to remove the plate and re-caulk it.

Well, I learned something. I would mark it so it goes back on in the same position.

I would be tempted to tap a screwdriver down in between the ring and the cam part that is sticking up, and as you pry it away use small screw drivers between the ring and the lock ring until you can slide it up some. I know of no tool for that.

Watch for flying objects and wear safety glasses.
 
Might be easier with an awl. A screwdriver will work if it's slim enough but the slender screwdrivers and not very strong?? Usually takes two screwdrivers in tandem. Be prepared for it to "fly"!!
 
I doubt it was ever intended to be removed, AKA steering wheel complete assy? Anyhow have you actualy determined that the ring is shorted to the spline of the wheel?
 
I’m interested too. I installed a different wheel (similar vintage so ~45yrs old) on my Scamp a couple of years ago and turning the wheel resulted in the horn honking. I couldn’t figure it out so removed that wheel and put back on the one my Scamp came with. I had no clue why it was honking but your theory makes a lot of sense.
 
How about snap ring pliers with a 45* tip?
 
Well, I learned something. I would mark it so it goes back on in the same position.

I would be tempted to tap a screwdriver down in between the ring and the cam part that is sticking up, and as you pry it away use small screw drivers between the ring and the lock ring until you can slide it up some. I know of no tool for that.

Watch for flying objects and wear safety glasses.
I tried that a little but it seemed way too strong. I guess as a last resort I could try it in earnest. It's laughable how much time I have invested in trying to get my GD horn to work.
 
Removing the ring is not that hard, replacing it and getting it in the same spot is a little harder. It does need to be in the same spot. I thought that the spring had tremendous pressure but once I removed it it wasn't that bad. Just wear a glove when it's getting close to popping and hold your hand over the whole assembly.
 
How about snap ring pliers with a 45* tip?
Nothing to push against because the ring doesn't come together in the ends. May be a big pair of lock ring pliers. They are quite expensive though.
 
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