65 Dart Horn Problems

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Mark it and then grab it with vise grips pull up on it while twisting it clockwise. To install it just put it over the collar and pound it down using a block of wood and a hammer. This is a tight fit and is not a spring.
 
mcodecuda said:
Mark it and then grab it with vise grips pull up on it while twisting it clockwise. To install it just put it over the collar and pound it down using a block of wood and a hammer. This is a tight fit and is not a spring.
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Now that you said that it made me remember!!! I clamped some vice grips on the tang. Put them on there pretty tight, it gave me a good solid place to pry on with a heavy duty screwdriver or small pry bar. Once you lift it up a little you can easily get a screwdriver under the ring.
 
mcodecuda said:
Mark it and then grab it with vise grips pull up on it while twisting it clockwise. To install it just put it over the collar and pound it down using a block of wood and a hammer. This is a tight fit and is not a spring.
Click to expand...
Treblig said:
Now that you said that it made me remember!!! I clamped some vice grips on the tang. Put them on there pretty tight, it gave me a good solid place to pry on with a heavy duty screwdriver or small pry bar. Once you lift it up a little you can easily get a screwdriver under the ring.
Click to expand...
Ok, starting to gain confidence. Imma give it hell.
 
I've been told that once I have it off I can use silicone or bathroom caulk as an insulator. Wouldn't a thin sheet of rubber work too?
 
I would hit it with some WD40 or similar, and (after marking the pin position) use some spreaders to break the ring loose. Spreaders are similar to lock ring pliers, but, are very sturdy. They're mainly used for heavy snap rings without any eyes in transmission assemblies.
 
Well, I did it. I used vice grips and a screwdriver to get a little gap then hammered the screwdriver further, pulled with the vice grips, etc. to remove it. Cleaned off all the old dried flaky material and used bathroom caulk to insulate the plate. Getting the ring back on was a little harder but I used a block of wood and a hammer to get it going. Thanks to everybody for all the help. I'm so grateful to have this forum.
 
67Dart273 said:
I doubt it was ever intended to be removed, AKA steering wheel complete assy? Anyhow have you actualy determined that the ring is shorted to the spline of the wheel?
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This is your correct answer ^^^^^^^^ However, people have been fixing things that "cannot be fixed" for a long time. Good luck with it. I for one would be interested to see what you come up with.
 
VanceC said:
Well, I did it. I used vice grips and a screwdriver to get a little gap then hammered the screwdriver further, pulled with the vice grips, etc. to remove it. Cleaned off all the old dried flaky material and used bathroom caulk to insulate the plate. Getting the ring back on was a little harder but I used a block of wood and a hammer to get it going. Thanks to everybody for all the help. I'm so grateful to have this forum.
Click to expand...

Well hot damn! Score one for you!
 
I dont know if bathroom caulk will work, not for long anyway. Ring pressure might go through it, push it out. What factory used was a very strong molded plastic. The part is reproduced. Link to the vendor was in a recent thread.
I too pulled the ring off with vise grips on the tang. I knocked the ring back on with a big line wrench and a hammer. The tang of ring in the wrench jaw opening. First C shaped something I saw worked. Good luck with it.
 
Well, I was able to remove the ring and clean up the contact plate. I used bathroom caulk and reassembled it all. My meter showed no continuity between the hub and the plate so I put it back on but had the same problem; the horn honks intermittently with the wheel on. So I removed the wheel and once again removed the ring and plate. This time I used much more sealant to make sure it was isolated. I'll install it in the morning and hope for the best.
 
Well, I was able to remove the ring and clean up the contact plate. I used bathroom caulk and reassembled it all. My meter showed no continuity between the hub and the plate so I put it back on but had the same problem; the horn honks intermittently with the wheel on. So I removed the wheel and once again removed the ring and plate. This time I used much more sealant to make sure it was isolated. I'll install it in the morning and hope for the best.
 
RedFish said:
I dont know if bathroom caulk will work, not for long anyway. Ring pressure might go through it, push it out. What factory used was a very strong molded plastic. The part is reproduced. Link to the vendor was in a recent thread.
I too pulled the ring off with vise grips on the tang. I knocked the ring back on with a big line wrench and a hammer. The tang of ring in the wrench jaw opening. First C shaped something I saw worked. Good luck with it.
Click to expand...
So the insulation was actually a plastic part? Where can I find this part? Thank you.
 
What is the diameter?

I've used toilet tank seals for fuel senders.

Much better quality than what comes with the senders or repro tanks.
 
VanceC said:
Well, I was able to remove the ring and clean up the contact plate. I used bathroom caulk and reassembled it all. My meter showed no continuity between the hub and the plate so I put it back on but had the same problem; the horn honks intermittently with the wheel on. So I removed the wheel and once again removed the ring and plate. This time I used much more sealant to make sure it was isolated. I'll install it in the morning and hope for the best.
Click to expand...
I've searched but can't find a manufacturer mentioned anywhere. Any ideas?
 
Oops quoted the wrong
RedFish said:
I dont know if bathroom caulk will work, not for long anyway. Ring pressure might go through it, push it out. What factory used was a very strong molded plastic. The part is reproduced. Link to the vendor was in a recent thread.
I too pulled the ring off with vise grips on the tang. I knocked the ring back on with a big line wrench and a hammer. The tang of ring in the wrench jaw opening. First C shaped something I saw worked. Good luck with it.
Click to expand...
 
VanceC said:
So the insulation was actually a plastic part? Where can I find this part? Thank you.
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Hey Vance,

Try this . I've done a lot of work around Marine electronics and this stuff is invaluable . paint it around the area you want to insulate , let it harden then reassemble. Should work for your needs.

8037095.jpg
 
I saw a post where someone used sheet ABS and a heat gun to mold two parts that did it. I guess a milk bottle would work too with a heat gun. I may have to resort to something like that because the part(s) would need to conform to the curves and be pretty exact. I have a call into Layson's too, he's checking to see what part I'm talking about.
 
Brush on electrical tape? That look pretty great for this. I could even coat the retaining ring where it touches the contact ring. Thanks
 
VanceC said:
Brush on electrical tape? That look pretty great for this. I could even coat the retaining ring where it touches the contact ring. Thanks
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Princess Auto if you have one in your area,

Black Brush-On Electrical Tape
SKU: 8037095

2 reviews

Great for hard-to-tape electrical connections. Dries fast and seals tight for a long-lasting hold. It also absorbs vibrations and prevents loose terminals.
 
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