Shifting too far in 3rd gear....?

Before you do anything;
Make sure the external levers are about the same length.
Next loosen the 3-4 lever on the side of the trans, just enough so you can rotate the lever.
If you can actually do this;
Remove the nut,apply Blue-loctite liberally around the stud between the flats that index the external lever; reinstall the factory nut with a drop of loc-tite, then walk away.If you do not have a factory nut, see note-4
After the loc-tite has set, check that your shifter adapter plate is securely attached to the trans tailpiece, and that the shifter is solidly locked to the adapter.
Then reset your neutral gate.

Ok now,
that A833 is a bugger to shift at over 6000. The problems are threefold;
1) the brute was never designed to be shifted at that rpm;
2) the gears are heavy, and the clutch teeth are very close together.
3) the brakes have no drainage
4) And lord help you if you are running 140
gear oil
Ok wait, that's fourfold,lol.

As to #1;You cannot do anything about that
Without taking the trans apart, all you can do is change the oil;
as to #4; I use 50% Dextron II Mopar Auto-trans fluid, and 50% 75/90 EP oil with NO additives.
If you are serious about wanting to shift at 7000, consistently and with minimal effort; There area few steps to this;
#1, having a flat disc, running parallel to the flywheel. This probably means that you will have to make it so. And that starts with shifting the bell house around until the trans centerline and the crank centerline are identical. and that the BH face is parallel to the flywheel face. and
2) is setting the clutch departure big enough to ensure the disc has some shoulder room, and
3) figuring out how to slow that stinking geartrain down from 7000 to about to 5000!

This is the trickiest part. I tried everything I could think of. The 140 oil does a good job, but the oil is so thick and so slippery, that the factory synchronizer brakes just cannot deal with it on microsecond shifts.
The grinding you hear is you overpowering the brakes and driving the sliders into the clutch teeth. With 140 oil and factory parts, the brakes are the limiting factor. You are destroying your clutch teeth.
The 140 oil has got to go.Straight 75/90, in my experience, is also too slippery and therefore slow.

Ok but here is the big cure;
Call up Brewers and get yourself a street-slick-shift, 3-4 synchronizer. This DOUBLES the amount of room between the slider teeth and the clutch teeth, and all your problems go away. On the street you will never know the difference....... because honestly how often are you cruising in third gear, lol. Third gear is seldom used for anything but to get to fourth,lol.
And finally,why are you shifting at 7000? see note-3

Note-1,
How it works;
The brass rings work by squeezing the oil out from between themselves and the brake cones on the gears. After that is done, the brass grabs the metal and attempts to lock up with it. So in the start of this. it just slows the spinning gear down.
But that spinning gear is being turned by the cluster, and the input gear, and the spinning clutch disc, all of which have inertia, so even with or especially with, the 75/90 EP oil, they all are not much interested in slowing down the 2000 rpm this is gonna take. And the PP/ flywheel, is not helping matters, even tho the crank if you lift off the gas, as you should be, is slowing down. Mopars are notorious for slow deceleration, we'll talk about that later; see note-2.
Lets continue
Eventually the brass ring matches speeds, and now the slider proceeds forward to engage the clutch teeth. If the teeth are sharp, on both the slider and the clutch, then there is always less than a half a tooth clearance, and the slider snicks between the teeth and BAM!, the shift is complete.
Now; this whole process depends on several things
1) the engine is slowing down, and
2) the strut springs keep the struts locked to the slider , and pushing the brass long enough for match-up synchronization to occur.and
3) the stinking oil vacates the brakes
4) that the teeth are relatively sharp, so the slider doesn't get stuck on them.
That's how it is supposed to work.

Note-2
Lets talk about slowing the engine down from 7000 to 5000. After the engine is built, you're sorta stuck with what you got. But here are a few things you can do;
1) a lightweight flywheel
2) A throttle that closes! This starts with the Transfer slot sync, and timing, and closed secondaries.
3) clutch departure... again. If the driveshaft continues to drive your engine,with your clutch pedal on the floor, well, that ain't helping.

Note 3
A typical street-cam might be about a [email protected], and is gonna power-peak at about 5100. With good heads and the tight-split A833, you can stretch that to say 5400, maybe 5600 at most, so that your out-going power is similar to your in-coming power. I mean the key is to put down the most amount of average power between two points on the road, by staying on the cam. By 7000, most street cams are well on the puking side of the power curve.
So,unless your engine has a heckuva long-period cam,and super big rear gears, this 7000, is just for the fun of it right? I mean;
I shift there knowing it is better than about 1500rpm past my power peak, and as a streeter I don't care; I just like to hear the screaming beast from idle to 65mph, one looong scream. I mean that's 5 or 6 seconds every time right,lol. I love it.

Note-4
If you do not have a factory nut,then you're in trouble. That nut has a load-distribution flange on it, and that flange is serrated, to prevent it from loosening. And it puts the clamp on the lever, out further from the pivot, making it even harder for the lever to self-rotate. But, if you loctited it, like I said to, then chances are very good that you can get away without it,lol