HELP: Headlight switch triggering STARTER!!!

Does the heater light dim with the dash dimmer? If so the problem is after the fuse panel, likely right at the cluster. Bad PC ground, batd bulbs/ sockets/ socket contacts etc. If you have power at the orange wiring at the fuse panel, then the fuse, light switch, are all OK

UPDATE: I created a small ground wire harness (black with ring terminals)... And soldered a jumper (white wire) over part of the board that was delaminated from the board... I have dimmable lights! Well for the most part... Going to clean the contact points really well and hopefully that will kick in the ones that are still out.

... Progress

Good progress. One negative though--the ammeter circuit is problematic enough without adding more. (problems) I would not use whatever those inline connectors are. I know it's a PITA to bolt the ammeter up when you pull/ replace the cluster, but that is the best way to do it, there is a LOT of power there

Make certain you disconnect battery ground. The ammeter circuit is NOT fused except the fuse link.......and it is poor protection

Good advice point taken will do! Thanks man

All instrument lamps now working/dimming EXCEPT for the turn signals... not even getting a click... if i pull the hazards they go on/click... I'm assuming this may be an issue with the switch in the steering column and not something easier... booooo

any advice welcome as always

Also maybe an optical illusion but the 'alternator' wire from the ammeter doesn't look like its as big as the battery (red) one.
Definately want that to be 12 or even 10 ga (SAE) or 12 AWG. You said you were crimping and soldering so the connections are probably good.

Chrysler did use locking in-line 'bullet connector' when they ran those wires out through a grommet.
Example in the 4th picture down here
How rare is electric rear defrost?

@Mattax yeah I guess it's the lighting/angle but they are both 12 ga.

Now that I'm getting closer to having everything working I'll pull those as @67Dart273 suggested before I button it all back up...

I don't have a garage and share a driveway with my neighbor so I'm constantly running in and out and working at small table on my porch... It was just easier to have quick disconnects until I got rid of the bugs!

theFightingFew said:

All instrument lamps now working/dimming EXCEPT for the turn signals... not even getting a click... if i pull the hazards they go on/click... I'm assuming this may be an issue with the switch in the steering column and not something easier... booooo

any advice welcome as always

Click to expand...

You do know? there are two flashers? One for hazards, one for turn. I would be right at the turn signal column connector with a diagram

Here are your basic inputs and outputs in/out of the "black box" that is the turn switch

INPUTS

Hazard flasher in, hot at all times
Turn flasher in, hot only with key "in run"
Switched brake power in, hot with brake pedal depressed

OUTPUTS

Left front turn and indicator(s) (cluster, fender, hood, etc)
Right front turn and indicator(s)
Left rear turn (and stop)
Right rear turn (and stop)

Just get your wiring diagram, draw out the connector, and the colors, and get a light and meter and go to work Get a probe "rigged" so you can probe the connector without separating it

If something doesn't work, such as stop lights or one side try wiggling the hazard switch "Stuff" goes through the hazard section of the TS switch, and I've seen more than one fail. "Back in the day" I "fixed" (that is temporarily "red neck") 2 or 3 TS switches which had no stop lamp function. I rerouted a couple of wires in the TS switch and resoldered them. The hazard function was disabled. Don't ask me how, that was in the '70's